Solar Panels and Controllers

[Elcid]

Originally Posted by CaptainRivet

The LG neon 2 bifacial has 390W Front and 120W back, so in total 510W while sunpower only 400W front. On davits the bifacial work well.
LG also has a better low light perfomance and due to the 12 bus bars partial shade on the panel only takes the row down which is shaded, the other rows deliver full power. Additional they deliver on lower sun angles to the panel. I have 2 LGs on my davits and they perform really well.
So i would prefer LG over sun power, max performance per sqm is not all.

Even at 510 W (under optimal conditions, however on the water with all the reflectivity I assume that would be the norm) the difference in size is quite big. But they are cheaper so overall they will be comparable I guess when it comes to value.

There is also a 415W variation of the LG Neon 2 Bifacial in the same size - so this one might be even better? (the difference in price is negligible): https://www.europe-solarstore.com/lg...415n2t-l5.html But then again the LGs are also heavier by 10% (2.5 kg)... So tough to decide

Do you know if there are any other differences?

[noelex 77]

Originally Posted by CaptainRivet

But they did interfere, i could reproduce it.
It were the integrated solar charger from the silentwind wind gen controller and one victron MPPT 50/100.
Swaping to 2 victron MPPT 50/100 connected via VE-bus and synchronization solved it.

If the controllers are programmed to regulate at 14.6v, it should not be possible, if they are functioning correctly, for the battery voltage to reach 20v as you have reported.

I suspect the Silentwind controller was faulty or has been wired incorrectly, but I have never used this model so perhaps this has a weird software glitch. Wind controllers use dump resistors (generally for the wind regulation only) so their behaviour is fundamentally different to solar controllers. Unlike solar controllers, every manufacturer’s implementation is unique so their behaviour is not always predictable, but if working correctly they should still always cut power at their programmed voltage.

Removing the Silentwind controller and replacing it with a Victron controller has obviously fixed the problem. Linking the Victron controllers is a good policy, and is easy to do with the modern units, but the battery voltage will not rise to very high levels if the controllers are not synchronised. There can be some minor conflicts with multiple controllers where the absorption time is not ideal (usually too long), but these problems do not result in the very high voltages you experienced.

Anyway, the problems you have experienced are not a normal consequence that people using multiple controllers need to be concerned about.

[krismatski]

Hi,
I am going to install three 80W solar panels on my boat, each with own SCC. These controllers have output for loads. Could not find the wiring diagram for such a case. Should I the loads main positive bar connect to all three controllers? With a house main switch somewhere in between?

[noelex 77]

Originally Posted by krismatski

Hi,
I am going to install three 80W solar panels on my boat, each with own SCC. These controllers have output for loads. Could not find the wiring diagram for such a case. Should I the loads main positive bar connect to all three controllers? With a house main switch somewhere in between?

For most marine applications the load terminals are not used. Generally they are of limited value and it is fine to leave them disconnected.

They can be utilised for some applications, as the output can be set with some basic instructions. Automatically turning an anchor light on/off at dusk/dawn or disconnecting a fridge when the battery power is low are some of the possibilities.

[jerryf609]

Originally Posted by darrelweb

I got all my panels and charge gear from Ferris Power Products.

Installed one setup on my 34 Pacific Seacraft years ago and have since sold the boat.

I just receieved my second setup for my 30' Catalina. 2 X 100 panels to go on my bimini with MPPT controller, 2 each Echo chargers for the start and windlass batteries, and a power boost solar monitor (an extra you can really do without).

Great service and help all the time. Out of MA. 508-743-9901

This is my second setup and l will stick with their products and reliability.

Darrel

Hi Darrel. I want to get some solar for my Catalina 30. Do you have pictures of your setup? How do you like it so far? Thanks.

[blueskymessenge]

Anyone thought about updating this thread? A lot has changed in the last 3 years since the last post

[CaptainRivet]

Originally Posted by blueskymessenge

Anyone thought about updating this thread? A lot has changed in the last 3 years since the last post

Get good bifacial panels from LG, Panasonic, Benq or my secret tip is Longli.
Gamechanger on a boat.
MPPT Victron is still the best and worth every penny. For bifacial i recommend 1 controller for 1 panel, around 15% more then multiple panels on one MPPT

[akopac]

Renegy 4x100w panels in parallel articulating panels
EPever Trace 4215BN controller
Max output seems to be just shy of 25amps at 13.4v
Bank 4x31 415AmpHrs usable.
I’m big on saving power as a priority when going solar. Foam insulation for fridge is cheap,… don’t want to drift though ;-)

[Texasvlad]

Originally Posted by krismatski

Hi,
I am going to install three 80W solar panels on my boat, each with own SCC. These controllers have output for loads. Could not find the wiring diagram for such a case. Should I the loads main positive bar connect to all three controllers? With a house main switch somewhere in between?

The controller will automatically disconnect the load when the voltage on battery will go below preconfigured limit. That will prevent battery from full discharge. So you can use that output to connect something that you want to be connected for long time but without risk of destroying the battery (like fridge or achor light).

But, be careful, there are 2 types of controller : one has common positive between "battery" and "load" terminals , and another have common negative.
So you need to know witch one you have before the wiring.
And also the load current should not exceed maximum load for your controller. (The parallel wiring of "load" terminals from multiple controllers will NOT work and will NOT change that limitation!!! Dont do it)