Troubleshooting solar setup... or troubleshooting my troubleshooting!!

[Ocean Sky]

As an aside , i just ran both engines ,Yanmar 40 hp, for 10 minutes.

The batteries were showing 12.2 V on the LInk 10 pre start ,they both started on the button then were showing 13.75 V on the Link 10.

After shutting down they dropped back to about 12.65 V

Now 5 minutes later ,with the single 40w panel they are at 12.20 V again,not going up on down.

Is this considered normal or a bit on the low side?

[Paul Elliott]

Originally Posted by Ocean Sky

yes i think it is an on/off type ,and i think just the one main regulator is controlling the both of 2 separate solar systems.

The other Nature 8A regulator i have just connected to the single 40W panel,which i never had connected before ,so i decided to see if it works ,and that one seems ok.I am not sure if it is also connected to the other 2 systems as a kind of back up ?

If all of the panels were connected through that one regulator, then it's certainly possible that the regulator is bad, and that's your problem.

It sounds like you need to trace some wires to see how things are connected. You probably wouldn't have two controllers connected to the same panels.

[Ocean Sky]

Originally Posted by Paul Elliott

If all of the panels were connected through that one regulator, then it's certainly possible that the regulator is bad, and that's your problem.

It sounds like you need to trace some wires to see how things are connected. You probably wouldn't have two controllers connected to the same panels.

OK Paul thanks ,

Yes will attempt to trace the wires to determine exactly how it is set up, before starting with the multi meter etc.

Getting dark here now and leaving the boat again tomm morning for another couple of weeks.

So will leave it with the single 40w panel on a trickle charge to hopefully keep it from discharging too much.

Cheers for now .

Apologies to the OP for chiming in here .

[noelex 77]

Originally Posted by Paul Elliott

I would fix the problem first, and then replace the regulators when it suited me.

There is no unique best way to fix a problem such as this, but even if the Ocean Sky can identify the immediate problem, with that multitude of old switches and ammeter in the charging circuit there is the potential for a lot of bad connections that will fail again in the near future.

In a case like this I would do what the pros would do. Rip it out and start again. The wiring can be made much simpler and it would be silly to reuse a regulator that is not even a PWM type.

[CatNewBee]

Originally Posted by noelex 77

There is no unique best way to fix a problem such as this, but even if the Ocean Sky can identify the immediate problem, with that multitude of old switches and ammeter in the charging circuit there is the potential for a lot of bad connections that will fail again in the near future.

In a case like this I would do what the pros would do. Rip it out and start again. The wiring can be made much simpler and it would be silly to reuse a regulator that is not even a PWM type.

cmon, dont you see it. It is an ULTRA HIGH EFFICIENCY ENERGY STATE TAPER... CONTROLLER, you can't beat that with a PWM or MPPT, not if you want ultra high efficiency energy state.

[john61ct]

It is difficult to discern sarcasm on the web, can easily throw newbies off track.

[CatNewBee]

Originally Posted by john61ct

It is difficult to discern sarcasm on the web, can easily throw newbies off track.

You are right, sorry for that.

I would not trust a device with that label printed on either.
Maybe it is worth thinking about it...

[Ocean Sky]

Originally Posted by CatNewBee

You are right, sorry for that.

I would not trust a device with that label printed on either.
Maybe it is worth thinking about it...

Agree this is slightly hilarious for sure.

Hopefully will find a way to sort it all out ..living and learning as we go along.

[Ocean Sky]

Originally Posted by Paul Elliott

If all of the panels were connected through that one regulator, then it's certainly possible that the regulator is bad, and that's your problem.

It sounds like you need to trace some wires to see how things are connected. You probably wouldn't have two controllers connected to the same panels.

Hi Paul.

After a two week break only connected to the one 12v portable panel,the agm house batteries were down to 10.5V.when we arrived yesterday.

So connected to shore power and the house AGM (2X100) went straight up to 13.3V on the Link10.Then went quickly into 'conditioning' before settling down 'Ready' on the Pro Nautic 12-30P after around 1 1/2 hours or so.At around 12.6 V.

Had to disconnect the shore power at midday yesterday as they were changing to new in the marina.So we turned off absolutely everything.

So with just the 4x 85 w solar panels connected i checked the voltages on the multi meter :

19.7V coming in from the combined panels into the controller (NC 25A)

19.2V coming from the controller towards the batteries. (but this does not appear to be getting through to the batteries ?)

Both AGM batteries were showing 12.3V on the multimeter and on the Link 10 at this point. This is with the shore power still disconnected at around noon.

This dropped down to around 11.75V when we left the boat at 7pm last night.

This morning at sunrise the AGM were again down to 10.5V ,the solar still does not appear to be getting through to the batteries this morning with excellent bright sunshine so with the new shore power installed in the marina at 1pm this afternoon we connected and again the AGM went straight up to 13.3v on the link 10 using the pro nautic charger.

As before this went very quickly into 'conditioning' followed by around 1 1/2 hours before showing 'ready' at 12.3V .

A :Would you agree that there is most likely somewhere a breakdown between the controller and the batteries (broken wire/connector etc)?

B:and also possibly solar controller problem?

C :The AGM are really struggling to hold any V even overnight with nothing at all connected ...so these are most likely needing to be changed?

I have looked at the wiring/fuse between the controller and nothing obvious seems wrong.

I am pretty useless regarding electrical matters, so am trying to get to the bottom of this before i start changing the controller (10yrs old) and/or AGM batteries (3years old).

Any advice /idea is warmly welcomed.

Thanks guys.

[Paul Elliott]

Originally Posted by Ocean Sky

So with just the 4x 85 w solar panels connected i checked the voltages on the multi meter :

19.7V coming in from the combined panels into the controller (NC 25A)

19.2V coming from the controller towards the batteries. (but this does not appear to be getting through to the batteries ?)

Both AGM batteries were showing 12.3V on the multimeter and on the Link 10 at this point. This is with the shore power still disconnected at around noon.

This shows why your batteries aren't getting charged. The charger output voltage should be the same as your battery voltage. If the batteries are taking a charge then the battery voltage may be a fraction of a volt lower than the charger output, due to wiring resistance.

But with 19.2V at the charger and 12.3V at the batteries there must be a broken connection. With no battery connection, the controller is putting out virtually the full unloaded solar panel voltage, but that power isn't going anywhere.

You need to trace the wires between the controller and the batteries. Could there be a battery selector switch in the circuit? If so, and if the selector is in the wrong position, then this could break the circuit. Generally, we connect the charge-controller directly to the batteries, or to battery (+) and the ground shunt if there is one.

Check at both ends of your positive and negative wires between the controller and the batteries. There is a break in the circuit somewhere. Be sure to pay attention to the ground (-) wiring. Often people assume the ground is OK -- we tend to think of "ground" as an ideal concept, and not as the assortment of wires and connections as it exists in the real world.

At this point I can't tell if there is a controller problem. It might be OK.

If your AGM's have been getting regularly discharged to under 11V then they may be toast.

[Ocean Sky]

Thanks Paul .

This makes sense thanks. I will trace all the connections and see what i can find ..i previously had just a visual check of what i could easily see ..so will do it more thoroughly this time, before i start buying new AGM/controller etc.

In the meantime i will leave the shore power connected to give those a batterys a chance to make a comeback!

Is it a good idea to start the engines to boost the charging to the batterys now and again,or just leave it on shore power with the pro nautic charger looking after everything?

I guess i have to disconnected the AC shore power before i start touching the DC wiring ? from a safety point of view?

thanks a lot for your advice

[skenn_ie]

Originally Posted by Ocean Sky

Thanks Paul .

This makes sense thanks. I will trace all the connections and see what i can find ..i previously had just a visual check of what i could easily see ..so will do it more thoroughly this time, before i start buying new AGM/controller etc.

No need to disconnect anything. Connect one meter wire to the engine or battery negative. Probe output from charge controller, then work your way along the positive line towards the batteries. Where 19v changes to 10/12V, is your disconnect. If measured output from controller shows 12V (unlikely), then the disconnect is on the negative side.

[Paul Elliott]

Originally Posted by skenn_ie

If measured output from controller shows 12V (unlikely), then the disconnect is on the negative side.

In my experience, the negative side can just as easily be disconnected. But this test technique will work in either case.

The positive circuit is more likely to include switches, breakers, or fuses, and any of these being open will cause the problem you are seeing. So it isn't just corroded wires and connectors that could be the culprit.

[Ocean Sky]

Quick update ..so we found the disconnect was caused by a connector between the positive out from the controller and the battery ..just needed a very slight rub with emery paper.

Solar is working fine now and even the AGM are holding their charge at 12.7 with no load over several hours...so will continue to monitor those closely.

Thanks guys for all the input and suggestions

Will start to look at options to upgrade to MPPT and perhaps bigger house bank in the coming weeks.

[CatNewBee]

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