What VSR (Voltage Sensitive Relay) do I need to install on my yacht?

[BayouSailing]

This will be an interesting read, when it's done.

Probably an even better short video, probably won't last to movie length.

Best word out there was the "buy once, cry once".

Aptly followed by my advice: "All marine fires self extinguish, at the water line"

Watching someone unschooled trying to design a complex electrical system with the cheapest possible components will result in the forecast fire. We can only hope that no innocent bystanders are injured. The cost of tuition is high, either in school, or by experience!

[Nicholson58]

Speaking from experience, you don’t want this feature. Manually control the system. Automatic battery controllers will combine your good battery with a failed battery and pull it down too. Pay attention and DIY

[Ballsnall]

Originally Posted by coopec43

Is this the sort of VSR I need? Would very much appreciate your help

That's VSR is spot-on for what you want. Simple, reliable and low cost. That same one is sold rebranded under several brand names. You don't need to spend a gazillion $ to have a safe reliable electrical system as some of the millionaire vessels use.

[Ballsnall]

Originally Posted by coopec43

Why on earth would I need 500A? at a cost of $475.

The Amp ratting is whatever you require. If you use a 10A VSR it will charge at 10A, if you use a 100A relay it will charge at 100A so go for a size based on you battery usage. A start battery has infrequent use so you really only need a trickle charger to maintain it.

[Pete7]

Originally Posted by more

alternator is CV charger set 14V
almost empty lithium battery is 13V
what is difference in voltage from source to battery.

Oh, were did those lithium batteries come from I thought you worked in the marine industry, not alchemy.

If you are only getting 14v from your alternator then perhaps it needs attention. The difference between 14v and 14.4v is quite alot of power.

Pete

[MikadoII]

Have a look at Intervolt an Australian company in WA. https://www.intervolt.com/

[PaulCrawhorn]

For LFP longevity, 13.8V termination is ideal.

14.0 is OK

14.4V is very stressful, nothing to be gained going so high.

Remember forget your lead experience, the current level needs to held in check, sitting at high SoC is unhealthy, do not try to fast charge in the cold, etc

[more]

Originally Posted by Pete7

Oh, were did those lithium batteries come from I thought you worked in the marine industry, not alchemy.

If you are only getting 14v from your alternator then perhaps it needs attention. The difference between 14v and 14.4v is quite alot of power.

Pete

My and Mitsubishi corporation's attention on the alternator is adequate. i pay Mitsubishi corporation via Perkins now Catepilar corporation couple $ and these 3 corporations give me alternator with Voltage limit 14.05 V

[coopec43]

Originally Posted by Ballsnall

The Amp ratting is whatever you require. If you use a 10A VSR it will charge at 10A, if you use a 100A relay it will charge at 100A so go for a size based on you battery usage. A start battery has infrequent use so you really only need a trickle charger to maintain it.

Well I've ordered a 120A Cyrix VSR (Battery Combiner) on the grounds I have a 3000W suitcase generator. (125A 24V)

Although I have X2 burner gas stove I have:

• Infra Red Microwave oven 1400W
• Bread maker 400W(?)
• Induction cook-top 2000W
• Electric Kettle 600W
• Water-maker ?W
• Toaster 700W

[more]

Originally Posted by coopec43

Well I've ordered a 120A Cyrix VSR (Battery Combiner) on the grounds I have a 3000W suitcase generator. (125A 24V)

Although I have X2 burner gas stove I have:

• Infra Red Microwave oven 1400W
• Bread maker 400W(?)
• Induction cook-top 2000W
• Electric Kettle 600W
• Water-maker ?W
• Toaster 700W

good choice. relative cheap and good

[Icarus]

Originally Posted by coopec43

I am currently trying to work out the charging system for the yacht I am building

The system is 24V

Starting batteries 2 X 700 CCA?

House Bank 2 X 135 AH (To be doubled)

Auxiliary engine alternator 24V 60A

Suitcase inverter generator 3000W 125A

Inverter 3000/6000W 24V

I did have a 1/2/both switch for the solar power output but I plan to only charge the house batteries (for the sake of simplicity)

Is this the sort of VSR I need? Would very much appreciate your help






• Warranty: 1 year from the purchase date.
• Bulkbuy and Wholesale(including sell products under your own brands and packages) are welcome, please contact us.
• Suits large road vehicles and marine such as large boats
• Automatically connects and disconnects an
appliance or circuit at the preset input voltage.
•100amp current rating satisfies normal appliance usage and designed for high amp draw appliances that need a high constant current rating to prevent faults.
• Material: ABS, Brass and copper (terminal studs inside of the VSR are made from copper, not stainless steel)
• Includes: 1x 24 Volt 100 Amp Voltage Sensitive Relay, 1x User manual, 4 stainless steel screws, and negative terminal ring
• Package: box
• Ideal for dual battery systems or to switch high current appliances.
• Features surge protection, L.E.D indicator&Voltmeter
• Silver tin tipped contacts for durability and efficiency
• Water proof leve(reputable manufacturer lab test):IP65 suits all kinds of tough situations
Same manufacturing method and sealant technique used for our latest manual overriding VSR with Voltmeter (Part number: NSVSR12V)
• Certification:CE
• Specifications:
Voltage: 24V DC
Max Working Current: 90-120Amp Continuous, 160Amp Peak
Current Draw: Charging: 150mA, Standby: 1mA
Cut-in Voltage: 27.4V DC ^
Cut-out Voltage: 25.60V DC
Cut-out delay: 3-5 seconds
One way sensitive *
Does not work with vehicle has smart alternator
• Waterproof: yes(could achieve IP65 - tested by our trustful and reputable supplier )


* Please note that this VSR is one way sensitive only(there are some VSRs on the market are dual way sensitive). So this means, this VSR will only work to transfer the electricity from one battery to the other battery. let us treat start battery as battery A, auxiliary battery as battery B to make this easier and clear - our VSR only works to transfer the electricity from battery A to battery B with the precondition that positive terminal of battery A is connected with the VSR start battery post and the negative terminal of battery A or vehicle chassis is connected with the VSR negative wire.


^ The manufacture use extra 0.3V(27.6V) as the bench mark to test to cover the electricity loss of the wiring. Especially for thick and heavy duty wires, so we should also consider this part in operation voltage.

On a dual battery system a VSR let's you charge one battery ( usually the starting bat ) first before it opens up and charges the second bat ( house bat)
100A is enough, after all the charging current peaks most likely under 60A anyway ( alternator )

[PaulCrawhorn]

Originally Posted by Icarus

On a dual battery system a VSR let's you charge one battery ( usually the starting bat ) first before it opens up and charges the second bat ( house bat)

Not how that works. The voltage on the circuit between source and battery is all that is measured

That is "negotiated" between the two, not just battery SoC and Ah capacity and CAR, but source amps output makes a huge difference

It does rise as the battery SoC does, but the VSR may well close (combine) as the A side battery is only 80%

The low SoC, high Ah etc of the B side target bank may then cause the VSR to open (isolate) again for a while.

The design hysteresis dictates foe how long that cycle continues, no problem so long as the contactor is not stressed by too frequent, called chattering.

The ACR/VSR never has any idea about SoC of any battery on either side, all it senses is combined circuit voltage.

[moseriw]

coopec43 Cyrix VSR (Battery Combiner) Had them, threw them out and changed to ARGO-FET. Threw it out and now I am fine with a B2B charger for 220 €. Same price as the cyrix + ARG-FET.

[coopec43]

Originally Posted by Icarus

On a dual battery system a VSR let's you charge one battery ( usually the starting bat ) first before it opens up and charges the second bat ( house bat)
100A is enough, after all the charging current peaks most likely under 60A anyway ( alternator )

I have a 3000/6000W pure sine wave inverter and a 3.5kW Gentrax inverter generator.

[more]

Originally Posted by coopec43

I have a 3000/6000W pure sine wave inverter and a 3.5kW Gentrax inverter generator.

I am sorry what pure sine wave inverter have with charging battery.
Inverter spending energy stored in a battery