What would you recommend about finding out where wires are broken?

[Bullshooter]

Interesting responses. The fox and hound is something I had never heard of. And Yandina's invention sounds interesting, but I don't quite understand it.

Another idea could be for other owners of Hunter 36 boats, like the OP's, to share what they know about the wire paths, and access.

[Cheechako]

I have not run into something like that I can't figure out. There's always a way.
But if you cant trace your wires from origin to the device, you need some help until you learn how to do that sort of thing.

[CharlieJ]

To solve the immediate problem, abandon the existing, defective wire run and install a new wire run from the existing circuit breaker to the vee berth via the bilge. Keep the new wire run as high as possible in the bilge, do not let it sag into the usual nuisance water. Use AWG 14/2 boat cable for LED lights. Under the vee berth bunk, terminate the new wire run at a terminal strip and then run 14/2 from the terminal strip to each LED light fixture (red and green).

Note that the OP idea of "taping a red and green flashlight" to the bow rail as a substitute for proper running lights is just plain foolish. All navigational lights have very strictly prescribed arcs of visibilty, luminosity, spectral range, etc., etc. This is a big deal.

[smac999]

It You have no access to the wires. Not sure how a pro is going to do any better... I doubt it’s a wire issue if they are in tubes. I would look for a joint somewhere.

[Lake-Effect]

Originally Posted by Bullshooter

Interesting responses. The fox and hound is something I had never heard of. And Yandina's invention sounds interesting, but I don't quite understand it.

Tripplett are the trademark holders for "fox and hound" and they make a fine circuit tracer, but it's at a premium price. Here is the inexpensive circuit tracer that I bought; its manual is also available at that link so you can read a bit more about it. It's been adequate.

Yandina's clever idea is a homemade circuit-tracer: the buzzer is the fox, and any AM radio tuned off-station will usually pick up a buzz when held near to the wire that has the buzzer connected to it.

[Auspicious]

The most likely failure of a wire that is run in conduit is corrosion. If corrosion was bad enough to cause the wire to fail in one place it is likely that another place is right behind. How many times do you want to do this?

Wire in conduits is rarely wire-tied. Use the old wire as a fish tape is a good plan. Not perfect - sometimes it parts. The technical term for that is "bad" usually accompanied by swearing.

Do NOT abandon wires, hoses, or tubing in place. This WILL come back to bite you. All new wires and any old wires you figure out in the process of a project should be labeled at both ends.

If the back of your electrical panel confuses you then a professional is in order. Find one who will let you watch, or better help.

[Rohan]

I'm sure that few people are dying in suspense for an update, but here it is anyway. Yesterday, I unscrewed part of the wall/headliner in the forward cabin because I was just curious what was in that space. It turns out it houses my windlass motor. I noticed that other wires passed through that compartment and the joint that held two spliced wires together was totally corroded (I have no idea how - everything else in that compartment was totally clean looking). I stripped the wires a little, twisted them together, covered them with electrical tape and viola, now my light works.

And this was after I spent $40 on a battery powered bow light. Oh well.

Originally Posted by jamhass

I see no mention of fuses in any of the posts.

I knew it wasn't a fuse problem, because then none of my running lights would work, instead of just this particular light.

[Lake-Effect]

Originally Posted by Rohan

I'm sure that few people are dying in suspense for an update, but here it is anyway. Yesterday, I unscrewed part of the wall/headliner in the forward cabin because I was just curious what was in that space. It turns out it houses my windlass motor. I noticed that other wires passed through that compartment and the joint that held two spliced wires together was totally corroded (I have no idea how - everything else in that compartment was totally clean looking). I stripped the wires a little, twisted them together, covered them with electrical tape and viola, now my light works.

And this was after I spent $40 on a battery powered bow light. Oh well.

I knew it wasn't a fuse problem, because then none of my running lights would work, instead of just this particular light.

Thanks for the update but PLEASE tell us you made the splice with crimp-on butt connectors, or soldered it well, then taped it up.

Just twisting wires together and taping up is going to bite you in the backside within a year or two. Never do that. Especially somewhere inaccessible, the splice has to be made in as reliable a way as possible so that you can trust it. Unless you're a master at soldering, the most reliable way is with crimp connectors compressed with a ratching crimper, then covered with adhesive heat-shrink.


As a general rule, I don't like ANY splices where they can't be reached easily... I would prefer to run a new wire, with splices only where they are easily accessible. Especially in your situation, where the old one corroded to failure, so you KNOW it's a bad spot for splices. Not always practical, but definitely more dependable.

[Rohan]

Originally Posted by Lake-Effect

Thanks for the update but PLEASE tell us you made the splice with crimp-on butt connectors, or soldered it well, then taped it up.

Just twisting wires together and taping up is going to bite you in the backside within a year or two. Never do that. Especially somewhere inaccessible, the splice has to be made in as reliable a way as possible so that you can trust it. Unless you're a master at soldering, the most reliable way is with crimp connectors compressed with a ratching crimper, then covered with adhesive heat-shrink.

I'll improve it eventually, but it is only for a light. And the crimper that was used previously had rotted away, which is just bizarre.

[HankOnthewater]

When I read the heading and first post, my thought was that wires seldom fail. The only times they do is close to or at the connectors, inadvertently skewered by a drill/screw, chafe or pinching. Nine times out of 10 is a connector failure/corrosion at either end. In your case it was a connector. To repeat what has been said before, try to avoid any connectors in a run of a wire.

Yes, as mentioned before, there are gadgets to measure how far from the measuring point the break is, but...... that is not helpful if the wire is not accessible, same issue with the hound /buzzer method.

Hiring a professional.... he would check either end and if they are OK, then run a new wire, that is the quickest and cheapest. A good professional would remove the old wire if possible, and mark both ends of the new tinned wire.

Some boat builders, and many home boat builders run a few a few spare wires in the conduits, or a rope so that a new wire can be pulled through.

[Lake-Effect]

Originally Posted by Rohan

I'll improve it eventually, but it is only for a light. And the crimper that was used previously had rotted away, which is just bizarre.

That is such a horrible idea. It's a NAVIGATION LIGHT. The point is to splice it properly - NOW, while you have it exposed - and never having to worry about again.