Wire thru deck seal

[Ambler]

Originally Posted by boden36

I use the same method as Ambler, but attach a length of flexible hose to the tail of the thru-hull.
If you bend the hose in a gooseneck and tape it to the body of the thru hull, you will not need to seal around the cables.
I have found that plastic thru hulls are not UV stable so will need to be taped or painted.

Regards,
Richard.

Good idea regarding the hose! I sail in Bass Strait so have to cope with lots of green water at times.
Funny how so many new boats are supplied with plastic through hull fittings. I have broken a few on clients boats above WL after advising changing them for bronze or stainless due to UV. I found black ones in New Zealand which would be better.
Wayne

[Redline452]

I've had good luck with Blue Sea CableClams, especially replacing those little metal-capped grommet fittings (that always did leak with flat cables). With careful drilling, CableClams can handle flat and round cables, around which they compress nicely when the collar is tightened down. What I like best is that all the plugs and connectors stay nice and dry on the inside.

I did get somewhat carried away and bought a second set so as to have spare outer collars and rubber plugs to seal the openings when the cables and mast are pulled. (I know, that's a lot of cables. The blue-tracer line wrapped around them was courtesy of my daughter, who was busy "creating" something).

(hmmm, not sure I've gotten the hang of attaching photos... first attempt)

[jseas]

I got these off ebay for not much. Search for solar cable gland.

[SVTatia]

Originally Posted by Bill_E

Actually, the Elavbro "Cableport" looks ideal for my application. But I'm having a bit of difficulty finding a way to buy one in the US. I just sent the manufacturer an email (Sweden) and will report on response...

I got a quote from this vendor in the UK, they will deliver to Canada for the advertised price (90 pounds sterling) which includes VAT, so the 15% tax would be the shipping cost. No reason why delivery to US addresses would be different. It is expensive, but will solve several problems.

Salty John: Cableport and other fine boat and yacht chandlery products.

[Lojanica]

You can buy hard copper tubing and a u or 90 fitting. Solder the fittings to make a gooseneck just like the stainless one in the pic. Dirt cheap. Works well. Just use bigger pipe if you need to run bigger tubes, wires, or hoses. Lastly I like the idea of flexible tubing on the end to add even more protection. Then you could butyl the hose and wires.

Admittedly this a workboat finish solution but it will definitely keep the water out and only cost a couple bucks.

[NahanniV]

Originally Posted by SVTatia

I got a quote from this vendor in the UK, they will deliver to Canada for the advertised price (90 pounds sterling) which includes VAT, so the 15% tax would be the shipping cost. No reason why delivery to US addresses would be different. It is expensive, but will solve several problems.

Salty John: Cableport and other fine boat and yacht chandlery products.

Did you end up buying the Cableport ?

Happy with it ?

How long did it take to get ?

Cheers,
JM.

[DeepFrz]

That Salty John cable port seems like a crazy price and looks good for a splash zone only.

[NahanniV]

Originally Posted by DeepFrz

That Salty John cable port seems like a crazy price and looks good for a splash zone only.

Agree about the crazy price.

But, what do you mean by splash zone only ? Like near the base of the mast ?

Cheers,
JM.

[DeepFrz]

No, by splash zone I mean a place where it would only get spray splashing on it. I have seen some pretty heavy water at the base of the mast too many times to risk using that. You need something that seals. Even the goose necks should be sealed around the cables.

[SVTatia]

Originally Posted by NahanniV

Did you end up buying the Cableport ?

Happy with it ?

How long did it take to get ?

Cheers,
JM.

Jim, I did not buy the cableport because it is too big to fit between the mast and a molded-in dorade box. The high price was a deterrent too, but I disagree that its for splash zone only. Its a good design, and I think whatever water gets under the top cover will flow out again rather climb up the pipe, unless the deck is submerged, but then there more serious problems.
My next best option is a swan neck SS pipe such as
https://www.seascrew.com/browse.cfm?s=swan%20neck

[Nicholson58]

We are facing this issue now with our solar panels. I wonder why we couldn't just add a 30-amp connector next the the shore power port & use a plug on the solar wires.