Wiring the aft cabin

[PatB]

Might this also be an opportune moment to mention that there is a special circle of Hell dedicated exclusively to the inventor of the Scotchlok connector?

[coopec43]

I couldn't get the terminal/busbar that I was wanting from either Altronics or Jaycar so I went for a couple of these @ $8 each from Altronics. They are "machined brass" (At $8/each they are a lot cheaper than other busbars I've seen online)

This standard 8 way machined brass busbar can be used as a common point for wiring and can be useful for low voltage tie points within vehicles such as boats or caravans. The 6 central holes can accept up to a 4.5mm wire bundle. The outer 2 accept a 6.0 bundle. The insulated standoffs at each end can be removed in order for the assembly cab be screwed to a chassis directly. Not suitable for 240V AC. 120A DC max.

[Spot]

Looks good Coopec43.

If you were really cheap like me you would have gotten a 10 or 12 position one and spent all day cutting it in half and fitting it to a PCV/G10/FR4 plate with as many matching screws as one could find in the tin on the workbench...

[coopec43]

Originally Posted by Spot

Looks good Coopec43.

If you were really cheap like me you would have gotten a 10 or 12 position one and spent all day cutting it in half and fitting it to a PCV/G10/FR4 plate with as many matching screws as one could find in the tin on the workbench...

Yep I'm a real cheapskate too .

Don't tell anyone else (they won't approve) but I also bought a couple of these as well for $A9 (incl post) . (I'll bend the tips of the connector strip up to keep everyone happy)

[Lake-Effect]

Originally Posted by coopec43

I couldn't get the terminal/busbar that I was wanting from either Altronics or Jaycar so I went for a couple of these @ $8 each from Altronics. They are "machined brass"

There's a couple of concerns with this type of bus bar on a boat. The main problem is that this bus bar is intended for solid wire. With stranded wire, the screw end bears directly on the wire, which will potentially twist and break strands, and push some to the side. The other problem is that it's meant to be in an enclosure, so it's not protected from accidental contact with other metal. So another wire, or a stray tool could touch it and ground at the same time.

(ABYC doesn't like these for the above reasons)

The first concern can be mitigated by crimping on some ferrules...

... and the second by using a plastic junction box or by gobs of electrical tape around the bar...

But after all this, it would have been simpler and faster to do something else, right?

[Spot]

Your secrets are safe with me!

[coopec43]

Originally Posted by Lake-Effect

There's a couple of concerns with this type of bus bar on a boat. The main problem is that this bus bar is intended for solid wire. With stranded wire, the screw end bears directly on the wire, which will potentially twist and break strands, and push some to the side. The other problem is that it's meant to be in an enclosure, so it's not protected from accidental contact with other metal. So another wire, or a stray tool could touch it and ground at the same time.

(ABYC doesn't like these for the above reasons)

"The busbar is meant for solid wire" Maybe if I solder the tip it will be OK?

"that it's meant to be in an enclosure," Some time ago I bought a number of "plastic" boxes which are meant for enclosing electrical components so I will locate a couple of those and use them.

Thanks

[coopec43]

Originally Posted by Spot

Your secrets are safe with me!

+1

[Lake-Effect]

Originally Posted by coopec43

"The busbar is meant for solid wire" Maybe if I solder the tip it will be OK?

That would help, yes... (I like the ferrules better)

"that it's meant to be in an enclosure," Some time ago I bought a number of "plastic" boxes which are meant for enclosing electrical components so I will locate a couple of those and use them.

[coopec43]

Originally Posted by Spot

Looks good Coopec43.

If you were really cheap like me you would have gotten a 10 or 12 position one and spent all day cutting it in half and fitting it to a PCV/G10/FR4 plate with as many matching screws as one could find in the tin on the workbench...

You've got one of those tins too?

I buy all my bolts/screws/washers/nuts on line. When I need just (say) six of anything I buy ten as it is almost as cheap. As a result I have a large stock of SS fasteners.

When I find a stray (I don't know where they come from) I check it with a speaker magnet. If it is SS I toss it in "the tin on the workbench..."

[PatB]

That's pretty much the sort of thing I was thinking about from house wiring. Interesting it's regarded as unsuitable for mains voltage given its resemblance.

Soldering the wire ends should be fine. Personally I'd favour it over anything crimped on, but that's opinion, not necessarily recommended practice. I would hope that isolation, by separation or enclosure, of any live electrical bits went without saying, although I've seen enough lethal bodges, both amateur and "professional" that I suppose I should know better.