Xantrex LinkPro Install

[cofc]

Hi all,

I'm replacing a Link 20 with a Link Pro. The wiring that is in place for the Link 20 looks to be in good condition, so I will just be replacing the shunt and reusing the existing wiring. My question is; in the positive supply voltage line, the PO ran the wire through an on/off switch. The only reason I can come up with for this is he decided he wanted to be able to turn off the Link 20 (I can't imagine why). Should I just leave the switch in place or bypass?

[smac999]

I would probably just bypass it. maybe that was his way to reset it. or leave the boat for extended periods and wanted nothing draining the battery.

[cofc]

Thanks!

This is kind of related.

I have 4 Trojan 605s that the PO said he had just installed. They look to be in good condition and the fluid is topped up. The issue is that when the charger is running they show roughly 14 volts. The charger will do its thing and then go into float mode, leading me to believe that they are fully charged. When I remove the shore power the batteries drop to roughly 13.3 volts immediately, and then work their way down to 12.5 to 12.3 about 5 minutes later. When the refrigerator is running the load on the batteries is about 9 amps and then 4 amps when it's off.

Should they be doing this? I ordered a hydrometer so I can equalize the batteries, but it won't be here til next week.

[smac999]

sounds about normal for a load. with no load they would probably stay in the 13's for a few hours but still drop into the 12s eventually. the 13v you see is more or less a fake charge voltage still sitting there and disappears pretty quickly with a load. a full battery is 12.5 ish.

[Maine Sail]

Originally Posted by cofc

Thanks!

This is kind of related.

I have 4 Trojan 605s that the PO said he had just installed. They look to be in good condition and the fluid is topped up. The issue is that when the charger is running they show roughly 14 volts. The charger will do its thing and then go into float mode, leading me to believe that they are fully charged. When I remove the shore power the batteries drop to roughly 13.3 volts immediately, and then work their way down to 12.5 to 12.3 about 5 minutes later. When the refrigerator is running the load on the batteries is about 9 amps and then 4 amps when it's off.

Should they be doing this? I ordered a hydrometer so I can equalize the batteries, but it won't be here til next week.

In order for a "healthy " charge for Trojan's you really want to be in the 14.6 - 14.8V range for the absorption stage. There are a LOT of horrible chargers out there that may not always fully charge your batts.... Voltage at the battery terminals during absorption should be at least 14.4V but preferably 14.6V to 14.8V.....

[nhschneider]

One possible reason that the Link 20 was wired through an on/off switch could be that the Link 20 was inducing noise to an HF radio. I had to do the same with my Link 2000.

Fair winds and calm seas.

[CharlieJ]

Which conductor in the cable has the switch installed in it?

[smac999]

Originally Posted by nhschneider

One possible reason that the Link 20 was wired through an on/off switch could be that the Link 20 was inducing noise to an HF radio. I had to do the same with my Link 2000.

Fair winds and calm seas.

your HF radio would be a huge draw if used much. probably the biggest load on most sail boats. kinda defeats the purpose of the battery monitor if you turn it off while the biggest load is used!