BC Cruising, Desolation in off season -- bolt holes, other guidance?

[uhtflogan]

Hi folks,

Loved the thread NedX started and wanted to see if our family could tap the collective wisdom. (New member but long-time lurker, so apologies if we're not used to any of the forum etiquette here!)

We're looking (Covid permitting) at Desolation in March (2 adults), and if that goes well thinking about attempting the Broughtons in July (2 adults, 2 teens). We're in a 42' Vancouver, so off-shore capable, good equipment. We know the Gulf Islands well, up to about Jedediah, but this is the first time we've had the time to get further north. We're alert to the flood / current / wind / narrows issues in the archipelago, having learned fast after some early errors. We have an EPIRB on board (along w/ radar), PLB plus marine radio on the vests, a basic coastal raft, and MOB recovery parbuckle & ladder. We're good, solid middle-aged coastal water sailors, but not setting the yachting world on fire, and this is a new boat for us (stepping up from a 27' Viking, so a healthy jump).

Wondering, if anyone had advice:

--Is Desolation in March do-able or is that just going to be miserable? Obviously the weather is the factor, but I guess what we're wondering is does it just howl and rain up there constantly in March (like that first season of Alone, Noah's arc version) or is it more variable? We're near Sidney, and here in March it can be spring time weather and beautiful, or it can be storms off the Pacific. We're getting lots of local advice, but not from anyone who has actually done it...which could be a hint too.

--We are very attentive to wind conditions and would want to hunker down for anything over 20 knots forecast. But forecasts are forecasts. We've also been caught out before especially in sudden southeasterly winds (summer around Hornby) where it turns ugly fast and w/o much warning. Do folks have recommended anchorage bolt holes (draw 6') in the spring up north? All the published recommendations are for summer season, and we don't know the waters up there well enough to know but assume prevailing in winter is completely different?

--Any other advice from anyone who has been up there in spring, apart from Watch The Weather? Advice on the Broughtons in summer season?

Grateful for any words of wisdom!

[sv_pelagia]

A quick reply....

Desolation is definitely doable in March.

The MAIN weather "surprise" to look out for are arctic outflow winds down and out from Bute Inlet. Even supposed "bombproof" anchorages such as Roscoe Bay have historically been hit hard by the "butes".

Read this excellent BC weather book:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=12e...ayfXxxEnBVjfVR

I would hope/expect Butes are less common by mid March.

[uhtflogan]

Pelagia--many thanks for this and the book reference--will check that out now.

[Smokeys Kitchen]

When we traveled up to Alaska about 3 years ago, we were in Desolation in early May. Turned out the water was warm enough to swim in and we were only one of three boats in Tenedos Bay. I guess what I am saying is that it really depends on the year

[BugzyCan]

Mid March is usually the first date when temperatures go double digit and the freezing nights slow or stop. March can be a very wet month. If you could wait for April, things improve quite quickly.

[Toaster]

Looks like you are well kitted out, but one suggestion is an AIS transponder. There is nothing so reassuring as getting a personal hail from the bridge of an approaching Cruise ship, with the caller politely asking how you would like to pass each other. Same with tug and tows.

In BC, all non-pleasure boats (and actually many pleasure boats, too) have AIS. it is a vital safety feature. Often, you can even tell if someone is already in that cozy anchorage you are heading towards. Or if a BC ferry is approaching Porlier Pass.

Sailboats have weak radar signals, and AIS can double or more the range at which they can detect you. Once, off Comox, we were hailed by a fishing boat hauling ass south, and told he could not see our radar signal until he was almost on top of us. He knew we were there because of our AIS. And we are a ketch with 15 stays and shrouds, so a lot of metal up there.

Nice step up by the way, ain't it fun?? We went from 24' to 38' and it opened a world of sailing for us. Life changing.

BTW, I highly recommend MiillTech Marine for AIS. They have been great for us, really excellent service. And they are in Pt Orchard, WA, so "sort of" local to you.

T.

[Lodesman]

Originally Posted by Toaster

Or if a BC ferry is approaching Porlier Pass.

The ferries don't use Porlier - perhaps you're thinking of Active Pass.

For the OP, read the book Pelagia linked to. March can be pretty fickle, and you can still get outflow winds - they can happen any time of the year, but they're called Squamish winds then. Whenever there's an arctic high over the BC interior, you can expect vicious outflows. And of course it can be cold and wet. But if you dress for it, it can be spectacular sailing and wonderfully peaceful.

[sv_pelagia]

Originally Posted by Lodesman

The ferries don't use Porlier - perhaps you're thinking of Active Pass.

For the OP, read the book Pelagia linked to. March can be pretty fickle, and you can still get outflow winds - they can happen any time of the year, but they're called Squamish winds then. Whenever there's an arctic high over the BC interior, you can expect vicious outflows. And of course it can be cold and wet. But if you dress for it, it can be spectacular sailing and wonderfully peaceful.

Depends where on the coast you are... No "Squamish" winds out Douglas Channel (over 400 nm from Squamish), but there are outflow winds, for example.... Bute outflows are called "Butes".

[Yellowjacket]

I would pay attention to potential debris issues following the earthquake and morraine collapse in Bute Inlet. Not a reason not to go, but will certainly require some thought and attention.

[uhtflogan]

Thanks all (and merry Christmas)--we'll take a look at the timing. It sounds like maybe the percentage play in March (second half was the plan) is to assume we're cruising northern Gulf Islands and if the weather cooperates have the flex to zip up a bit further north, playing it by ear.

And thanks Toaster on the AIS rec. We do need that, you're right. We've been relying on iNavX and an older tablet back when they had GPS built in which was letting us see anyone transponding, which at 27' in local waters was kind of ok, but thinking through that we're not going to have iPad data up north, and we do need folks to be able to see us more remote and not be relying on consumer data plans. Will get on that.

42' is definitely a big jump. We're still getting used to tight docking on a sailboat that size and w/our high freeboard to be honest, and this spring a bow thruster is going to have to get fitted so we're not Those People at the marina. And I don't know how in a MOB we'd actually ever really get anyone back aboard in bad weather in time, so I guess we'd better made sure no one goes over. But it's opening up a whole world of options here, especially to get away from the crowds in the summer, and down the road maybe some offshore. We're lucky that we have two keen teenaged sailors eager to get out.

Hope to see some of you out there--

[uhtflogan]

And thanks Yellowjacket as well, yeah, there's going to be a lot in the waters this year.

[Scorpius]

Desolation in March won't be all that different from the Gulf Islands, etc. further south - except for the katabaric winds out of Bute Inlet which can be howlers. I'd have no qualms anchoring in Prideaux Haven, Laura Cove, Roscoe Bay, Van Donop Inlet or several other places in any weather - but then I have REALLY good, over-sized anchor gear.

If you have time I'd try to visit Princess Louisa Inlet on your way home. It MUST be experienced at least once in a lifetime. I generally do my shakedown cruise there at the start of each season just to get the kinks out - and NEVER fail to be impressed by the place. It's especially spectacular in the spring with all the waterfalls (we counted 34 before losing track) and snowfields up on the mountain sides.

I wouldn't want to do the Broughtons in March (mostly getting to them: Johnstone Strait, etc.) but in July they're wonderful: a lot cooler than in more southern waters though. Temperatures REALLY drop at the rapids whether you do the Yuculta's etc. up the back side (which I would recommend despite the need to calculate and hit slack water times for at least five rapids) or Seymour Narrows. In the Broughtons, and providing Covid is a thing of the past, don't miss Billy Proctor's museum at Proctor Bay, just around the corner from Echo Bay. He's a character, great to talk to, and his books are wonderful - but go soon as he's 86 now and getting frail.

[Macblaze]

We've been in Desolation in April and can't say enough about it. It will ruin Desolation for any summer cruising. The only downsides are that popular places like Herriot Bay, Refuge and Toba Inlet are closed. The upside is that winter rates are still on at places like Gorge and Taku. But you shouldn't have to worry about that because the anchorages are EMPTY! Woohoo!

Desolation is pretty small overall and you shouldn't be far from one place or another that offers protection or just a place to tie up and wait it all out (Covid notwithstanding). You'll have your pick of Prideaux or Von Donop or a spot on the docks at Squirrel Cove or Lund.

One small bit of wisdom I can offer is that when you head up to Cassel Falls and see all those lovely chains in close to the falls and think to yourself, "we should anchor close to the falls"... Don't. It wasn't until later that year when watching someone else's videos that I realized the outflow from the falls in spring is about 10 times that of high summer and that explained why after 40. minutes of trying to stern tie we ended up going to Von Donop instead Pretty though.

The Broughtons, IMHO is better in the June than July ("crowds" although its hard to call the Broughtons crowded). We've been up in both. Pierre's is no more (it's Kwaxwalawadi now, https://kwaxwalawadi.com/) so it remains to be seen if the summer Pig Roasts etc are still "the" thing.

Johnstone is the only barrier and I have never had any issue barring the time we thought we could outsmart the current around Helmeken. So big issue but a bumpy ride.

Enjoy! Hopefully I will see you in Desolation (we are planning April again)

[Macblaze]

Originally Posted by Scorpius

In the Broughtons, and providing Covid is a thing of the past, don't miss Billy Proctor's museum at Proctor Bay, just around the corner from Echo Bay. He's a character, great to talk to, and his books are wonderful - but go soon as he's 86 now and getting frail.

The Broughtons really are just past a cusp... Port Harvey is closed, Lagoon Cove was sold (to great new owners), Pierre's is sold to the locals, Shawl Bay is up for sale and Max is really having a hard time getting around, Billy (as mentioned) is getting old, Nikki is no longer allowed to do her eco-tourism trips, Steve Jackman moved on from North Island Marina (his brother is running the place now)—I have even heard there are some changes at Sullivan Bay. Truly an end of an era ...

I am so glad we got to go before it changed, but I am sure the "new" Broughtons will be just as wonderful in its own way.

[uhtflogan]

Thanks Scorpius, Macblaze, that's all super helpful and hope to see you out there. Really looking forward to getting out. I wish we could get away in May or June, as I suspect July and August are going to be an extra gong show this year. We struggled to get moorage at 44' anywhere on south Vancouver Island (or, indeed, even as far up as Ladysmith), and we keep hearing that there are a lot of folks with new boats thinking Gulf Islands for the summer. Unfortunately kids don't get out of school until third week of June, so we're a bit hamstrung with anything until then (and it's all Covid and Dr Henry rules permitting), but we'll have a good 5 weeks out this summer to look forward to.