LiFePO4 Batteries: Discussion Thread for Those Using Them as House Banks

[Lagoon4us]

Is the paste corrosive to the metals contained within the structure of these batteries? Short of pulling one apart and testing i truly doubt it.

The batteries are made by various manufacturers for a worldwide market, Batteries being used on this thread alone are i believe up to three years old, IF the combination of these metals caused a problem there would be evidence of this to people on this Forum.

Yes IF the connections are loose there will be resistance BUT same story for any electrical connection, this is just routine stuff.

Recently i copped a flogging saying pure aluminium is a great conductor and of course this is due to oxides forming and insulating BUT as various contributors have said various pastes shield corrosive attack.

So lets all take it as a given that all bolted connections shall be excellent!

Now my question, when i do my install i'm doing it in Croatia where language barriers tend to make requests a little difficult, are good soldered joints in cable and totally soldered lugs acceptable in lieu of a crimp.

I'm not suggesting soldering then crimping i'm looking at acceptable alternatives where i cannot get a crimper.

Secondly is a soldered lug preferable to a crimp in marine air?

I looked elsewhere on the forum but found the thread was abandoned due to a tosser interfering in the thread.....

Cheers Frank

[senormechanico]

Originally Posted by NahanniV

6.49x0.6=3.894 on my calculator, but 3.894 times almost zero current is still "about as close to near zero volts as you can get".


Cheers,
JM

You're right. I was too involved with a cat refusing to get out of my lap when I was punching calculator buttons !

[mrm]

Originally Posted by Lagoon4us

Now my question, when i do my install i'm doing it in Croatia where language barriers tend to make requests a little difficult, are good soldered joints in cable and totally soldered lugs acceptable in lieu of a crimp.

I'm not suggesting soldering then crimping i'm looking at acceptable alternatives where i cannot get a crimper.

Secondly is a soldered lug preferable to a crimp in marine air?

I looked elsewhere on the forum but found the thread was abandoned due to a tosser interfering in the thread.....

Cheers Frank

Frank, this topic was debated many times with some strong views.

If I remember correctly, the sort of consensus was, that:
- solder alone is not allowed, because if a connector heats up enough, solder may melt and connection will come loose;
- crimping and soldering *may* have some benefit *when* crimping is done *badly*, but solder wicks into wire and hardens it, bad for stress relief and prone to breaking under vibrations;
- *proper crimp* is gas tight, no chance for moisture to wick through.


Marius

[deckofficer]

Frank,

I could be wrong on this, but I've always preferred soldering. When the lugs are big like they need to be for house bank to inverter, the soldering iron needs a massive size tip and at least 120 watts.

I'm sure others prefer the large, leveraged crimpers. I've seen the strands of the wire almost look like a solid wire from the force these crimpers can apply.

[Lagoon4us]

Yes thanks you echo my thoughts, i have a tame sparkie in Split looking for work i might run the system and get him over with a crimper to terminate.

The heating issue is the big one for sure, our boat is extremely dry inside where the wiring resides, aft cabin under mattress etc. So salt atmosphere is lessened some.

Cheers and thanks Marius .

Frank

[Lagoon4us]

Originally Posted by deckofficer

Frank,

I could be wrong on this, but I've always preferred soldering. When the lugs are big like they need to be for house bank to inverter, the soldering iron needs a massive size tip and at least 120 watts.

I'm sure others prefer the large, leveraged crimpers. I've seen the strands of the wire almost look like a solid wire from the force these crimpers can apply.

Bob i probably would use a torch, i'll check the sparkies gear to see what he can do, getting close now bought the MPPT yesterday, charger next!

[downunder]

Originally Posted by Lagoon4us

Yes thanks you echo my thoughts, i have a tame sparkie in Split looking for work i might run the system and get him over with a crimper to terminate.

The heating issue is the big one for sure, our boat is extremely dry inside where the wiring resides, aft cabin under mattress etc. So salt atmosphere is lessened some.

Cheers and thanks Marius .

Frank

Frank,

MainSails website articles have some good discussion on crimping.

Making Your Own Battery Cables Photo Gallery by Compass Marine at pbase.com

The other article on wiring termination is also excellent. Think I will get a couple of good crimps to keep onboard.

Cheers

John

[deckofficer]

Originally Posted by Lagoon4us

Bob i probably would use a torch, i'll check the sparkies gear to see what he can do, getting close now bought the MPPT yesterday, charger next!

What charger did you go with?

I picked up this one.
KP-C(1200W) Charger [KP-C(1200W)] - $209.00 : EV Assemble, LiFePO4, Electric Bike Conversion Kit, EV Charger, BMS, EV Components, EV Parts, All for EV!

[Lagoon4us]

We went for an Aussie one made for Lithium and used extensively in Outback pumping situations, Aussies lead the world in this technology. MPPT30-2L

Thanks Bob i'll check those chargers once this internet performs Aaaaahhhhgggg!

[Lagoon4us]

Bob i just had a quick look and they look good however i couldn't find input voltage (we use 220/240AC) are they worldwide input like a lot of others or 110AC? Cheers

[Lagoon4us]

Originally Posted by downunder

Frank,

MainSails website articles have some good discussion on crimping.

Making Your Own Battery Cables Photo Gallery by Compass Marine at pbase.com

The other article on wiring termination is also excellent. Think I will get a couple of good crimps to keep onboard.

Cheers

John

Excellent lesson on crimping great detail thanks John

[catakate]

@senormechanico and NahanniV: thanks for pointing out that even if one tries to screw things up, he has a fair chance not to, simply because commonly used cables are commonly used for a reason!
I'm on the "meter" side of the world and although I'm sure you all understood my point, I must pay more attention to details and do proper math.

[deckofficer]

Originally Posted by Lagoon4us

Bob i just had a quick look and they look good however i couldn't find input voltage (we use 220/240AC) are they worldwide input like a lot of others or 110AC? Cheers

Mine has a chassis cutout on the back that would have the 110 or 220 switch, but no switch. Since they are internally adjusted to order for output voltage, I would ask them if they offer it for 220 VAC in. Not having the switch saves money and service claims if someone plugs into 220 with the switch in the 110 position. Most all common power supply transformers come with dual primary windings for both voltages.

[senormechanico]

Although not likely, it's possible the switch may not be needed.
Bernina sewing machines have a power supply which works with any common power in the world.
All you need is a cord which fits the wall socket.

[diugo]

I like the idea of a good crimp, followed by tight heat shrink to keep moisture out. Soldering large cables is a lot of extra work!