Merged LiFeYPO4 1000Ah Winston prismatic cells and all electric galley...

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by goboatingnow

The Cerbo code is only Victron upgradable , ie you upgrade to whatever Victron release

The Venus OS code is user modifiable and upgradable

Afaik, Victron has a special firmware that allows these extensions. Search the net

[goboatingnow]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

Afaik, Victron has a special firmware that allows these extensions. Search the net

The midnite dbus extension was written for Venus OS by a third party. That extension can’t be back fitted to the Cerbo.

If you are considering integrating non Victron your better of considering the Venus system rather then the Cerbo. But there’s a learning curve.

[CatNewBee]

Originally Posted by goboatingnow

The Cerbo code is only Victron upgradable , ie you upgrade to whatever Victron release

The Venus OS code is user modifiable and upgradable

Venus OS is the Cerbo code. It is like Windows (Venus OS) on a Intel PC (Cerbo, CCGX, Octo, RaspberryPi).
You can change the Cerbo the same way you can change a raspberry Pi. You have to make the partition writeable, thats all. It is described on Victron GIT how to do it.

The only difference is, the OS on the Cerbo is on the internal flash memory, while on a RaspberryPi it is on the external SD card, what makes it a lot easier.

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by CatNewBee

Venus OS is the Cerbo code. It is like Windows (Venus OS) on a Intel PC (Cerbo, CCGX, Octo, RaspberryPi).
You can change the Cerbo the same way you can change a raspberry Pi. You have to make the partition writeable, thats all. It is described on Victron GIT how to do it.

The only difference is, the OS on the Cerbo is on the internal flash memory, while on a RaspberryPi it is on the external SD card, what makes it a lot easier.

Exactly. I gave up explaining because they won’t believe it anyway

[goboatingnow]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

Exactly. I gave up explaining because they won’t believe it anyway

Αh now we believe you. Some of the time anyway

[CatNewBee]

Originally Posted by Catapault

Hi Cat,

Thanks for the info.

What I meant was, where in your overall circuit diagram, did you insert these new Shunts ?

- Shunts are normally on the negative size, between battery and everything, but I got the impression from your post that these new shunts were measuring specific busses only, rather than everything ? And if they are between the RBS's, then they are on the high side ?

Just clarifying if I'm misunderstanding what they are measuring is all.

Missed that one, sorry.

Yes the WiFi Double Shunt what I built can be used on both, the negative or the positive side. I chose the INA226 particulary because it can do this out of the box.

I put one shunt between the ML-RBS 7700 OverVoltageProtection charge relay and the downstream ML-RBS 7700 Legacy chargers interruptor (alternators feed, old shore chargers)

My MPPT positive feeds via a fuse directly to the ML-RBS OVP and on the battery side of the shunt

So basically:
battery positive - fuse - ML-RBS OVP -shunt- Ml-RBS legacy chargers - diode blocks - alternators

The second shunt is after the DC loads distribution, inline to the 120V inverter

battery positive - fuse - ML-RBS UVP - loads switch - positive bus bar - fuse - shunt - inverter.

Basically 6 components needed, a ESP32 board, a tiny fix-voltage buck converter power supply (under the ESP32), 2x INA226 I2C boards, onboard 0.1Ohm shunts removed, 2x 300A shunts, and a OLED Display I2C.

Then some coding.

The unit has a Web interface for configuration and monitoring, history and min/max counters, connection setup to the Pi (Cerbo) Quite nice, requires a WiFi connectionAttachment 274864Attachment 274865Attachment 274866

[Phil_Fr]

@CatNewBee,
Interested by this thread and discussion, I cannot access to your last "Attachment 274864 to 274866"...
Can you check that ?
Thanks, Phil

[CatNewBee]

Originally Posted by Phil_Fr

@CatNewBee,
Interested by this thread and discussion, I cannot access to your last "Attachment 274864 to 274866"...
Can you check that ?
Thanks, Phil

I am not sure what they were, but here some more.

[Phil_Fr17]

Originally Posted by CatNewBee

I am not sure what they were, but here some more.Attachment 279049Attachment 279050Attachment 279051

Thank you !
Check your previous message #1041, You cannot access to the attachment

[more]

somebody ask for breaker
i now in use 2 year this
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000...%216274884%21S


little expensive for 500A but really good, if somebody have space for fix cable,excelent disconnector for all electric + and - on boat for example tunderstorm,leaving boat long time,

[CaptainRivet]

Originally Posted by more

somebody ask for breaker
i now in use 2 year this
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000...%216274884%21S


little expensive for 500A but really good, if somebody have space for fix cable,excelent disconnector for all electric + and - on boat for example tunderstorm,leaving boat long time,

Its 500A for 230Euro, that needs more then reasonable due to it needsbmassive and therfore expensive material so it can withstand the 500A continuous.
You can also use NH fuses, they are AC and DC rated compared to this which is not. you can get them up to 1200A if needed and just pull the fuse. New with the fuse holder you are are at the same price for 500A but you get both on ebay for a fraction of the cost. Paid 57Euro for 1 fuse holder and 3x 500A newer used spares. Base is just ceramic and silver plated cooper and the fuse has an indicator that shows if blown or not. No issue to buy that "used" or better old never used spares.
These are typically used in factories as main fuses or for big machines and when they close or getting ripped down the demolition company sells the spares.

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by CaptainRivet

Its 500A for 230Euro, that needs more then reasonable due to it needsbmassive and therfore expensive material so it can withstand the 500A continuous.
You can also use NH fuses, they are AC and DC rated compared to this which is not. you can get them up to 1200A if needed and just pull the fuse. New with the fuse holder you are are at the same price for 500A but you get both on ebay for a fraction of the cost. Paid 57Euro for 1 fuse holder and 3x 500A newer used spares. Base is just ceramic and silver plated cooper and the fuse has an indicator that shows if blown or not. No issue to buy that "used" or better old never used spares.
These are typically used in factories as main fuses or for big machines and when they close or getting ripped down the demolition company sells the spares.

You volunteer to pull that NH fuse while 500A is flowing through while filming it and I will buy you a beer

A switch has a very different function than a fuse.

[CaptainRivet]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

You volunteer to pull that NH fuse while 500A is flowing through while filming it and I will buy you a beer

A switch has a very different function than a fuse.

Done that at 12V and approx 800A, pulling no problem.
You need higher voltages so you get massive sparkes.
If you switch the breaker under this full load contacts will burn up fast too.
Used NH in my young and innocent time in car hifi installation that where running at over 1000A...
Using only NH above 150A since 23 years when a 400A class T fuse arced and bypassed the fuse due to a massive cell short in the lithium bank and burned my demo car down.

You can even buy
A) an holder where you can pull them in/out like a breaker
B) a protection glove with puller integrated so you can do this at 400V and 500A.
These NH are used in Grid station or at solar parks.

[CaptainRivet]

Originally Posted by CatNewBee

I am not sure what they were, but here some more.Attachment 279049Attachment 279050Attachment 279051

CatNewBee could you please share where you got this „sexy“ looking gui mods from. Where can I download this, exactly how I want mine to look.

[more]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

You volunteer to pull that NH fuse while 500A is flowing through while filming it and I will buy you a beer

A switch has a very different function than a fuse.

easy task with this,
https://www.eti.ba/proizvodi-i-uslug...-ac-23b-dc-22b
in all house in Croatia new instalation is obligated similar this i think fuse is 100-200A everything is under key, in house is current limiting 16-25-32A depend how much you pay
https://www.eti.ba/proizvodi-i-uslug...0-3-690-ac-22b