ex-yugoslavia

[macdiv1]

Some friends and I (maybe 6-7) are considering leasing a sailboat (50 ft. or so) and sailing out of Dubrovnick for possibly a couple of weeks ----any suggestions as to where to go, what not to miss, what to avoid?????? Thanks

[Morski Krastavac]

You will likely fly into Cilippi airport (airport of Dubrovnik) and board in ACI Marina Komolac (Marina near Dubrivnik) You should spend at least one day in Dubrovnik, this is a UNESCO world heritage city, in my opinion the finest on the Adriatic, next to Venice. Out of Dubrovnik to the island of Mljet

1.day cove of Okuklje, restaurant Maran, Croatian owner with Swiss wife, speaks English, hike up to chapel.

2. Polace, northerneastern tip of Mljet alternatively Pomena, northwestern tip of Mljet, both are inlets with nice anchorages, safe in all conditions, careful on northern inlet into Polace, reef.

3. Korcula-island, do not use ACI Marina Korcula (crowded, expensive), use Marina Lumbarda, much nicer, less crowded and cheaper, bus every hour into Korcula-town (brithplace of Marco Polo), leaves direct from the Marina, Restaurant "Zore" in Lumbarda (from Marina along the shore, turn left at cemetery, approx. 300 meters on your right)

4. Hvar-island, stay at ACI Marina Palmizana, located on the island St. Klement across the channel off Hvar (my favorite Marina in Croatia but do NOT eat in any restaurant on St. Klement ALL are tourist-traps), take water taxi to Hvar-town (leaves at 10:20 AM from Marina) negotiate fare, anything above 50 Kuna/person is a rip-off) visit the fortress in Hvar town, great view, restaurant "Kapetanja" directly on the promenade, southern aspect of bay.

5. Vis-island (see warning below), Komiza town, visit fisher-museum right on harbor, restaurant "Bako" former boat-house, great ambience, take trip to "blue grotto" on Bisevo-island, approx. 3 nm from Komiza, no good anchorage near grotto, one person must stay on board, take dingi into grotto, NO outboard, oars only, must be there before 11:00 AM for full color effect (sunlight)

6. Korcula-island, Brna town, no frills fishing town, very authentic, new moorings for yachts, no tourists, buy fresh fish / seafood off fishing boat "Ante", say "Bog" to crew from "Kapetan Morski Krastavac" and SY Nepomuk.

7. Lastovo-island, several interesting options:
- Ubli-town, old Marine-bunker from the war, deserted town, quiet

-Zaklopatica, bay with protective island (use channel leaving the island on starbord, I believe this is the eastern entrance), anchor in bay, several restaurants ashore, can be busy

-Marina Solitudo, part of the hotel, may use facilities of hotel.

Vis and Lastovo islands are nice for hiking but when exploring Vis and Lastovo islands, do NOT veer off regular paths or roads, MINES from the war still in a few places. You will be safe on paths and roads though, unsurveyed areas are marked.

8. Mljet-island, Pomena or Polace (whichever not visited before), Take hike to bay of Soline (prohibited to enter for yachts), preferably from Pomena for shorter distance.

9. Mljet-island, Sobra-town, no frills, authentic town, fish-farming, few restaurants directly on pier, do NOT dock on ferry-pier, this is permitted as long as one leaves when ferry arrives for about an hour but ferry personnel is not very friendly and ferry has hit yachts in the past.

10. back to Dubrovnik.

You can check on this and find more information here: Voyage of Nepomuk

Feel free to email me with any other questions.

Peter

[macdiv1]

MUCH appreciate all the good info.------thanks!!!!!!!

[Morski Krastavac]

You are quite welcome, one more thing: especially around the Dubrovnik area sentiment is still strong regarding the war. You will get an idea when you are there, the town was shelled mercilessly from the surrounding hills, particularly scary when you imagine this in Marina Komolac, where you can still see the yachts with bullets and shrapnell in their hulls. Point I am trying to make: avoid any and all reference to Yugoslavia or Serbia in this region: the language is "Croatian" not "Serbocroatic", never order "Serb bean soup" or "Slivovic" (the traditional liquor).

Learn a few words of Serbocroatic, pardon me: Croatian, this will be appreciated.

Mirno More (good sea),
Peter

[Black Sun]

hi morski krastavac! i am new here but i am too from Cro! well i can say if anyone want to visit Croatia there is no island they should miss! take at least 2-3 months just for searching the islands!

[Morski Krastavac]

Well Black sun, in general terms I agree with you, there are many nice places up and down the Croatian shore (as there are nice places in other parts of the world) but for most of us a visit of a few months is simply unrealistic.

Macdiv's initial request was for a charter-voyage out of Dubrovnik, so I posted what I consider possible within reach for a 2-week time frame; even this suggestion is rather aggressive not even allowing for one day of rest or waiting out a storm. Most likely either Lastovo or Vis will not be feasible. A shame as I like these islands better than crowded Korcula and Hvar but that is certainly personal preference.

I for one have left HR a few years ago, avoiding ever increasing crowds and prices. I wish Croatia the best but find them touristically in general and regarding nautical tourism in particular on the wrong path.

Do Videnja, Bog.

[swagman]

Hi Guys,
Used all those tips above when reviewing planned trip this coming summer. Great - thanks.
Any more suggestions of what not to miss further north? We aim to go right up Croatia and then over to Venice over a one month period June / July.
Cheers
JOHN

[Morski Krastavac]

Oh my... now we are talking serious suggestions: I will send a private message / email but perhaps you can tell me in general terms what you and your crew are looking for: Marina every night vs. anchoring out, main tourist-attractions and busy night life vs. more authentic quaint fisher-villages... just some preferences on your part allowing me to streamline the suggestions.

I've been in Croatia since 1964, there is a lot to visit / see.

[macdiv1]

Hi Morski--------we're still in the early stages of planning a trip to Croatia(and thanks again for your helpful info. earlier); our lead researcher (not me) , a couple of days ago sent me a note indicating that some sort of licensing requirements may be on the table in order for the 6-7 of us to lease a boat out of Dubrovnik. We all have a fair amout of sailing experience----I actually have a couple of US CG Licenses-----Would you be able to bring me up-to date on what the requiremnts might be here (well, there )????????? Thanks, Macdiv1

[Morski Krastavac]

Mac Div,

Your friend is unfortunately right: Croatia requires a "patent" for any skipper who does not hold a recognized license from his/her home-country. There are many nations without any legally required licenses for skippers on sailboats, including the US. Others are Italy and the Netherlands. As a German I hold the German license and have no problems.

You should definitely check with your Charter company before booking Fines for violations can be hefty. There is a Croatian "patent" available; it is really a joke, administered in a few hours and has little nautical value. In my opinion merely one more inventive way of the Croats to make money... which is the general scheme in the country over the last 5 years and has prompted me like many other owners to leave for good. Sad, given the beautiful area.

I can assure you if you get the skipper-license issue resolved (a VHF radio license may also be required but I believe is included in the Croatian "patent") you will sail one of the nicest regions in the Med.