Advice for Customs in Grenadines/Grenada

[rasher]

We did exactly this same trip last month - there's a lot of wrong information here.

1. Your charter company will walk you through where, how, and when to clear in and out. Take notes and ask questions. Before you leave, stop at an ATM and get a lot of $20 ECD notes for cash tips.

2. Get all of your passenger/crew's passports and C&I forms (the receipt they keep when they arrive at the airport and clear customs) and keep all of that with the boat papers for the entire trip.

3. Clear out of Tyrell Bay, Carriacou. The guides are confusing - we discovered it's easy to grab a mooring ball in the bay close to Carriacou Marine (they're marked). An employee will come out on a dinghy and make sure you're tied up good. If you're leaving right away, try to get cleared out (office is at the Carriacou Marine) that night, you have 24 hours to leave. The restaurant on the beach next to the marina is excellent - go there for dinner. If you're late, get up early, get coffee and breakfast at the little cafe next to the customs office so you're first in line whenever they open. Budget yourself 1-1/2 hours or so - it's ISLAND TIME!

FYI on the clearance - the officials who work these offices all seem to come off as crabby and stern. But I find that playing a little dumb ("aw shucks") and being prepared to wait while they stare at your paperwork and sigh, they'll eventually come around to letting you in or out.

If you're going to Carricou, give yourself a day, call up "Tim" at Anse La Roche to make a lunch reservation. Then take a "bus" around the island to Hillsboro and Tim's water taxi will pick you up at the pier. Tim's beach BBQ was one of the top 5 meals of my entire life. The bus rides are a blast (stand around until a van pulls up, then jump in. It's like $1 to ride anywhere you want).

4. Clear in at Clifton Bay. When you arrive, a boat boy will come out and guide you in. Just tell them what you're doing and they'll help you. When they get too pushy, tell them no. It's very very easy once you get the hang of it (took me several days). Take your dinghy to shore, tie up anywhere. Any of the guys hanging around will help you. Pick one, talk to him, tell him what you want and he'll help you all the way. He'll suggest a restaurant - it will be good. Tip anybody who helps you 20 ECD. Once you have "your guy", you can tell everyone else that you have a guy and they'll leave you alone.

US culture teaches us that everyone's out to scam us and in my experience in SVG/GND, that's simply not true. All these guys (boat boys, etc) are just trying to make an honest living and truly want to be a helpful good host.

We found that as we travel from one spot to another, if you mention the people who helped you, the restaurants you went to, etc. to the new folks you meet, that really opens things up. Seems like everyone knows each other and appreciate the name drops.

5. Once your're cleared into SVG, you're good to go. We didn't get any further north than Tobagos, but that was plenty for us for a two week trip. Saltwhistle Bay on Mayreau was fine. The beach bar was pretty cool. Absolutely get a beach BBQ at Tobagos. Romeo was our host and he was awesome, but like I said - find any guy - they're all really good.

6. Reverse the process on the way back. Give yourself time to get it done without rushing. I always build 1-2 extra days in my plans with nothing scheduled, so we can afford to stay somewhere an extra day, or fix a boat problem, or deal with weather delays. Don't try to do too much - you'll be coming back again, I promise.

I love SVG/GND now and simply will not be returning to BVI/USVI anytime soon. So much more authentic, easy, and fun.

[lestersails]

And spend some time on Grenada itself. As rasher says, it is authentic. I agree with what I assume s/he means. This is an island with a real economy and substantial things going on other than bareboat charters and offshore tax shelter fronts (ahem, BVI). The people are lovely, and the geography and sights are cool. Don't miss the farmer's market in St. George - if you time it right it can be great for provisioning with some fantastic fresh produce. But some fresh nutmeg for your Painkillers!

[jerrypeters]

I agree with the others ... don't sweat it. But, that doesn't help someone new to the process. You'll find it easy but the first time can be daunting. The charter company will help you for sure. Also read Doyle's guidebook.

Now, yes you need to check out of Grenada and into St. Vincent and vice versa. The process is straight forward but can be frustrating. You can check out when you leave St. Georges and you can overnight in Carriacou if you don't stay long before you go to St. Vincent. I believe you have 24 hours from your checkout time until you must leave.

If not in St George, you can check out in Tyrell Bay from the office located next to Carriacou Marine - the original slipway (not Tyrell Bay Marina). I have been going to Carrriacou for 20 years and checked in/out of Carriacou dozens of times. I have never had a pleasant experience there - ever. They are surly and rude. Having said that, go in with a smile, take a deep breath and you'll get through it. They may or may not accept SailClear information depending on their mood. My advice is to use SailClear but be prepared to submit paper forms either on site or obtained in advance (from your charter company.) Bring EC currency. There is an ATM there but they won't let you leave to get cash without a hassle.

Once cleared out you can proceed to St. Vincent. Union Island is the closest port of entry. Customs is located at the airport which is walking distance from Clifton Harbor anchorage. There is a customs/immigration office in Clifton but it is usually closed. The anchorage in Clifton is pretty difficult. There is limited anchoring room due to the reef and the number of boats. Moorings exist and many boatboys will offer them to you. It is never clear whether they have the right to them. There is a Marine Park (or similar) organization which sometimes can provide "official" proof of "legal" mooring. The cost is kinda high for a one hour stop but ... while in Clifton you can do provisioning or other shopping and/or hit a restaurant. Alternatively, in Union, you can go around to the anchorage in Chatham bay. It is very pleasant and served by several beachfront restaurants. There you can almost certainly get a ride into the airport to clear customs. Try Secki and Vanessa - restaurant owners that are usually willing to help. They will charge a reasonable fee for their service but it is worth it to avoid the hassle of Clifton and the mooring fees there. Once cleared in you're free to go anywhere in St. Vincent.

Leaving to return is the reverse. Need to check out in St, Vincent and the best place for that in Bequia (or Blue Lagoon). Bequia is great if you are planning to return to Carriacou (or St. Georges) pretty quickly. I have checked out in Beguia in the morning, then sailed to Tobago Keys for the rest of the day and left from Tobago Keys the next morning - again within 24 hours (more or less) from the check out time.

From Tobago Cays you can sail to Carriacou or St. Georges as your plans dictate. If you want to spend more than 24 hours after leaving Bequia, you'll need to check out in Union or Canouan (Although I haven't been in Canouan for several years so don't know current procedures/facilities.)

Another thing - Covid. When I was there last in early September, St. Vincent required an agent to review covid compliance - vaccinations primarily. Grenada has no restrictions/requirements. My guess is that the St. Vincent has probably relaxed their requirements since September but a current Google search will probably tell you what you need as can your charter company.

Final thought ... make sure you fly the yellow "Q" flag coming into port and the country courtesy flag after check in. The charter company should provide them.

Enjoy ... it is one of the best cruising grounds in the Caribbean.

[CaptJimFrei]

Make multiple (6 ought to do it) copies of your crew list before you leave the charter base. The captain will take all the crew's passports to the office. Your crew can come ashore, but keep it to one person at the C&I office.

On one of the SVG islands, customs and immigration are not in the same building iirc.

SVG C&I are very slow. Bring plenty of patience.

[RIglehart]

Thanks everyone. This was all helpful.

[RIglehart]

How strict is the 24hr rule?

I was going to head straight up to Annes La Roche from St Georges and anchor there for the night. Tim's BBQ is absolutely incredible. I went there last year while on an Island Windjammers cruise. Then I want to stop over and check out Petite Martinique the next day. Maybe stay the night. Am I going to have to go back to Carriacou and check out before heading north?

Basically my question is. Can I check out from the base at St Georges and then show up on Union Island 48 hours later to check in? Or is that a huge no-no? I am trying to avoid going back to Tyrell just to check out within 24 hours. However if Clifton looks at my checkout papers and see's it was 2 days ago, are they going to send me back to do it again. I'm not trying to be sneaky (well maybe a little). I just want be efficient with my time.

[SailingHarmonie]

Originally Posted by RIglehart

How strict is the 24hr rule?

I was going to head straight up to Annes La Roche from St Georges and anchor there for the night. Tim's BBQ is absolutely incredible. I went there last year while on an Island Windjammers cruise. Then I want to stop over and check out Petite Martinique the next day. Maybe stay the night. Am I going to have to go back to Carriacou and check out before heading north?

Basically my question is. Can I check out from the base at St Georges and then show up on Union Island 48 hours later to check in? Or is that a huge no-no? I am trying to avoid going back to Tyrell just to check out within 24 hours. However if Clifton looks at my checkout papers and see's it was 2 days ago, are they going to send me back to do it again. I'm not trying to be sneaky (well maybe a little). I just want be efficient with my time.

The 24 hour rule on checking out is the rule. It's not flexible. It is not "about 24 hours," and it is not 24 hours from when you wish you could have checked out.

BUT... there is no rule that says you have to show up directly at the next port. We have taken long detours to fish offshore, which is totally legit, and checked in to the neighboring country days after we checked out. So the NEXT country that you check into isn't going to care too much, as long as you can convince them you have not been anchored in THEIR waters before checking in.

What COULD get you in trouble is being anchored in Grenadian waters more than 24 hours after you cleared out. The odds are probably tiny that you would get caught.

We got to know some of the customs people well during our stay in Grenada, and they DO take their jobs and the regulations seriously. We watched them slap a guy with a $500 fine for showing up without an outbound clearance from his last port. It was a choice: Pay the fine, or go back and get the clearance you should have gotten.

[capn_billl]

Originally Posted by SailingHarmonie

It was a choice: Pay the fine, or go back and get the clearance you should have gotten.

That's actually very reasonable.

Some Countries you pay the fine, AND go back, and clear out properly.

[RIglehart]

Thanks for your help.

It's tempting, but I don't want any trouble. I'll have to change my plans a bit to accommodate the 24 hour limit.

[carstenb]

We spent a couple of seasons sailing throughout the caribbean a few years ago. We never had any problems with Customs. Make sure you have a nice pair of shorts and a nice polo or collared short on (do NOT show up in bathing trunks and a ripped old t-shirt), smile a lot and be polite.

Do the above and you will fly through cearing in/clearing out

When in Clifton on Union Island if it is the weekend, make sure you eat dinner at Joy's. Local joint, cheap and you eat what she is making. Damned good food - only 4 tables but the takeout long is usually 15 or 20 people all evening

[lestersails]

Originally Posted by carstenb

We spent a couple of seasons sailing throughout the caribbean a few years ago. We never had any problems with Customs. Make sure you have a nice pair of shorts and a nice polo or collared short on (do NOT show up in bathing trunks and a ripped old t-shirt), smile a lot and be polite.

Do the above and you will fly through cearing in/clearing out

When in Clifton on Union Island if it is the weekend, make sure you eat dinner at Joy's. Local joint, cheap and you eat what she is making. Damned good food - only 4 tables but the takeout long is usually 15 or 20 people all evening

And always "Sir" or "Ma'am", as often as you can.

[Dreddy]

Last year we Bareboat Chartered from Grenada to SVG. Beautiful place. The 36 NM from St. Georges to Carriacou is a bit of a upwind slog. Checking out of Grenada is a breeze, we did so in St. Georges. Checking in at Union island was a bit more complicated. When I showed up at the Formality office, the immigration representative refused to see me without an agent.



Despite filling out the info on sailclear and having all the docs, I was refused numerous times, at the door of the office. Being told to get an agent, I did so for $50.00, he did the process in 10 minutes.



He explained that the Govt agents don't want to deal with people who don't know the rules and would rather ensure that locals make money to do their job. His words not mine. It was a bit frustrating but their country, their rules. Ironically, I met a few people who didn't have this experience. Not sure why I was unlucky....

Heading back there in July, ( weather permitting) I'll post a follow up. Hopefully we won't have a repeat...

[lestersails]

Originally Posted by Dreddy

(redacted)He explained that the Govt agents don't want to deal with people who don't know the rules and would rather ensure that locals make money to do their job. His words not mine. It was a bit frustrating but their country, their rules. Ironically, I met a few people who didn't have this experience. Not sure why I was unlucky....
(redacted)

Then you can be pretty confident it is not government policy. Dollars to donuts says his pals are the agents. That kind of low level corruption is endemic. Not like the USA at all. Our endemic corruption is high level.

[donradcliffe]

If you have crew changes, make sure you bring the new crew and the old crew to the immigration man and get their and your paperwork sorted out.

[RIglehart]

Originally Posted by donradcliffe

If you have crew changes, make sure you bring the new crew and the old crew to the immigration man and get their and your paperwork sorted out.

This brings up a great point. I have 1 person only doing half the trip. They are flying into Grenada, we sail to St Vincent, they fly out of there. When I head back with 1 less person, do I just need to have a copy of their flight reservations out of Argyle St. Vincent? Should I say anything about this when we are checking into Grenadines (Clifton), or would that just be asking for trouble I don't need?