Belize Cruising

[belizesailor]

Originally Posted by shaen

I do have a copy of the guide, I'm based out of the moorings base in Placencia until jan 21, then would like to take another couple of months exploring the cays as long as we can extend our 30 day tourist visa. I've found lots of sand Flys and rain in this area (what we would call a no-see-um). I'd like to spend time somewhere that's drier and more bug free I'd possible with good snorkeling nearby.

Anywhere you have sand and/or mangroves you can have sand flies. How bad they are depends on the location and the weather (worse after a rain). However, there are loads of anchorages in Belize where the sand flies are not bad, or non-existent, because you are far enough away from sand/mangroves (they are very weak fliers). If you are in the marina at the Moorings base then yep you will get them.

However, you are in luck, there are LOADS of other options.

Just a short trip out of the back lagoon puts you in the main harbour of Placencia. The boat traffic can be bad there, but the sand flies are not. There is decent snorkeling around Placencia Caye (mostly to the N and E), but its fair weather/early AM only...it gets rough when the sea breeze fills in in the afternoon.

Just to the E of Placencia Caye, across the Inner Channel, there is a group of cayes. They are Lark Caye/Lark Caye Range, Bugle, Scipio, Colson. The anchorage in Lark Caye Range is good, but deep (like 60'), and there is plenty of good snorkeling nearby. The other cayes in this group (Bugle, Scipio, Colson) all have good snorkeling around them, but not good protected anchoring...stick to Lark Caye for that. On the West side of Lark Caye (the Placencia side) there is a long sand bar that you have to pass S of to get into the anchorage. Snorkeling is excellent there, but go early before the day trip boats bring tourists out (with COVID may not be as much of an issue now). On the N side of Lark Caye there is an awesome snorkeling spot, but it is fair weather/early morning only since it gets rough when the afternoon sea breeze fills in, local knowledge advised too.

Just NE of Lark is Tarpon Caye (private) which has awesome snorkeling on its N-E sides, but poor anchoring. They have had moorings there in the past that they didn't mind you using, but I don't know the most current status of them. The Moorings base can fill you in on that. I suggest you ask if you can sit in on one of their chart briefings, it will give a good overview of the area.

There are several other cayes in the Tarpon Caye area with, again, good snorkeling, but poor anchoring.

A bit further N you have the Pelican Cayes which have good anchoring, good snorkeling, and Hideaway Caye which offers moorings and dinner with advance notification.

https://www.hideawaycaye.com/

A bit further N you will find Southwater Caye and Tobacco Caye, both have good anchorages and excellent snorkeling along the edge of the cuts in the reef there.

....and so on...loads of good options with no sand flies and good snorkeling.

You could easily explore the area between Placencia and Ambergris Caye inside the reef for a couple of months.

I highly recommend checking out the atolls too...they are the Crown Jewels of Belize. Glovers Reef Atoll is only 14 nautical miles offshore of Tobacco Caye and Turneffe is only a few miles off from the mouth of the Eastern Channel (near Belize City). Lighthouse Atoll is further to windward, but well worth the bash...beautiful. Turneffe has more bugs because it has the most land mass, all may have sand flies ashore, but there is plenty of room to anchor well away from shore at all the atolls. They all have world class snorkeling.

I suggest you peruse Freya's guide from Placencia north. I'm happy to answer any questions about specific spots along the way, or elsewhere in Belize or the region.



(I swear I'm being bitten by sand flies now and I'm in the mountains!!!)


Have you discovered "doctor flies" yet (or rather, have they discovered you?).

[belizesailor]

Originally Posted by model 10

San Pedro has fewer bugs downtown than the others, but the anchorage sucks.

Yeah, San Pedro is my least favorite place in Belize...it could be any tourist trap anywhere...and yes the anchorage suxs, especially with all the boat traffic.

I MUCH prefer Caye Caulker just a little bit south.

[belizesailor]

Originally Posted by shaen

I do have a copy of the guide, I'm based out of the moorings base in Placencia until jan 21, then would like to take another couple of months exploring the cays as long as we can extend our 30 day tourist visa. I've found lots of sand Flys and rain in this area (what we would call a no-see-um). I'd like to spend time somewhere that's drier and more bug free I'd possiblewith good snorkeling nearby.

Re rain. Good news, rainy season is coming to an end, but in general, S Belize gets more rain than N Belize.

[shaen]

Originally Posted by belizesailor

Anywhere you have sand and/or mangroves you can have sand flies. How bad they are depends on the location and the weather (worse after a rain). However, there are loads of anchorages in Belize where the sand flies are not bad, or non-existent, because you are far enough away from sand/mangroves (they are very weak fliers). If you are in the marina at the Moorings base then yep you will get them.

However, you are in luck, there are LOADS of other options.

Just a short trip out of the back lagoon puts you in the main harbour of Placencia. The boat traffic can be bad there, but the sand flies are not. There is decent snorkeling around Placencia Caye (mostly to the N and E), but its fair weather/early AM only...it gets rough when the sea breeze fills in in the afternoon.

Just to the E of Placencia Caye, across the Inner Channel, there is a group of cayes. They are Lark Caye/Lark Caye Range, Bugle, Scipio, Colson. The anchorage in Lark Caye Range is good, but deep (like 60'), and there is plenty of good snorkeling nearby. The other cayes in this group (Bugle, Scipio, Colson) all have good snorkeling around them, but not good protected anchoring...stick to Lark Caye for that. On the West side of Lark Caye (the Placencia side) there is a long sand bar that you have to pass S of to get into the anchorage. Snorkeling is excellent there, but go early before the day trip boats bring tourists out (with COVID may not be as much of an issue now). On the N side of Lark Caye there is an awesome snorkeling spot, but it is fair weather/early morning only since it gets rough when the afternoon sea breeze fills in, local knowledge advised too.

Just NE of Lark is Tarpon Caye (private) which has awesome snorkeling on its N-E sides, but poor anchoring. They have had moorings there in the past that they didn't mind you using, but I don't know the most current status of them. The Moorings base can fill you in on that. I suggest you ask if you can sit in on one of their chart briefings, it will give a good overview of the area.

There are several other cayes in the Tarpon Caye area with, again, good snorkeling, but poor anchoring.

A bit further N you have the Pelican Cayes which have good anchoring, good snorkeling, and Hideaway Caye which offers moorings and dinner with advance notification.

https://www.hideawaycaye.com/

A bit further N you will find Southwater Caye and Tobacco Caye, both have good anchorages and excellent snorkeling along the edge of the cuts in the reef there.

....and so on...loads of good options with no sand flies and good snorkeling.

You could easily explore the area between Placencia and Ambergris Caye inside the reef for a couple of months.

I highly recommend checking out the atolls too...they are the Crown Jewels of Belize. Glovers Reef Atoll is only 14 nautical miles offshore of Tobacco Caye and Turneffe is only a few miles off from the mouth of the Eastern Channel (near Belize City). Lighthouse Atoll is further to windward, but well worth the bash...beautiful. Turneffe has more bugs because it has the most land mass, all may have sand flies ashore, but there is plenty of room to anchor well away from shore at all the atolls. They all have world class snorkeling.

I suggest you peruse Freya's guide from Placencia north. I'm happy to answer any questions about specific spots along the way, or elsewhere in Belize or the region.



(I swear I'm being bitten by sand flies now and I'm in the mountains!!!)


Have you discovered "doctor flies" yet (or rather, have they discovered you?).

THANKS for the detailed reply, I'm actually at Lark cay right now, 76 ' deep where I am and a 20knot norther blowing. Snorkling has been great and with the wind no bugs so my wife is much happier. Haven't seen a doctor fly, what are those? Any suggestions for treating sand fly bites, repelling, and killing them?Shaen.

[belizesailor]

Originally Posted by shaen

THANKS for the detailed reply, I'm actually at Lark cay right now, 76 ' deep where I am and a 20knot norther blowing. Snorkling has been great and with the wind no bugs so my wife is much happier. Haven't seen a doctor fly, what are those? Any suggestions for treating sand fly bites, repelling, and killing them?Shaen.

De nada.

Wow, you found deep spot! But, the holding is good behind Lark Caye and it is a good place for a Norther.

Lots of anecdotal info on how to deal with Sandflies...I dont know that any of it is valid. Staying clear of them is the best solution. Winds at 20 knots anchored well off Lark Caye should be doing the trick!

Cold front season is upon us and its important to your wife's happiness, and thus yours, to know how to deal with strong fronts in Belize. I will post some excerpts from my "Belize Notes" that discuss the subject and a list of foul weather anchorages.

[belizesailor]

"Doctor Fly":


https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diachlorus_ferrugatus

[shaen]

Originally Posted by belizesailor

Thatchcaye hasn't posted here in about a year.

Currently, all the good licensed surveyors in the area I know are based in Rio Dulce, Guatemala. For example, John Brandes at Rio Dulce Marine Surveyors | Serving the Western Caribbean areas of Central America including Guatemala, Honduras, Belize, and Southern Mexico.

If you still need a surveyor Paul Squire in Miami: http://www.simexmarinesurveyor.com/c...-paul-f-squire
was one of the few surveyors willing to travel to Belize from the states that I could find. I used him and was happy with his work. With the land and sea borders between Guatamala and Belize still closed on the Belize side it was cheaper to bring him in than fly in a surveyor from Guatemala.

[Pete7]

Originally Posted by belizesailor

Lighthouse Atoll is further to windward, but well worth the bash...beautiful. Turneffe has more bugs because it has the most land mass, all may have sand flies ashore, but there is plenty of room to anchor well away from shore at all the atolls. They all have world class snorkelling.

Indeed, a trip to the Blue Hole, 5m North of Half Moon Key ought to be possible with a decent dinghy. After all Jacques Cousteau managed it in an Ex WW2 French destroyer, with the help of some dynamite The reef has grown back since then.

[ks2cs2]

We will be visiting the area on a Moorings boat out of Placencia in a couple of weeks. We plan to rent dive equipment and dive off the boat while the others are snorkeling. I understand that you have to have a licensed dive operator to dive in the Marine Reserves. Are there any good areas outside of the MR's that we should consider for reasonable diving? We plan to stay less than 40' and are just having fun. I expect we will hit Ray, Ranguana, N. Long Cocoa, Rendezvous, etc. but I was wondering if there were some others outside of the MR's that we should consider.

[belizesailor]

Originally Posted by ks2cs2

We will be visiting the area on a Moorings boat out of Placencia in a couple of weeks. We plan to rent dive equipment and dive off the boat while the others are snorkeling. I understand that you have to have a licensed dive operator to dive in the Marine Reserves. Are there any good areas outside of the MR's that we should consider for reasonable diving? We plan to stay less than 40' and are just having fun. I expect we will hit Ray, Ranguana, N. Long Cocoa, Rendezvous, etc. but I was wondering if there were some others outside of the MR's that we should consider.

There are a lot of misunderstandings about the Marine Reserves. I will post a copy of the section from my "Belize Notes" re marine reserves which hopefully will help clarify. Moorings can also provide current info.

There are some reserve areas where you cant even enter without a permitted vessel with a licensed guide aboard (like Hol Chan). However, most of the larger marine reserves you are free to do as you please in terms of snorkeling or diving. A ranger may collect an entry fee from you, but that's about it.

From my "Belize Notes":

"
...
Marine Reserves

Much confusion & consternation exists among cruisers regarding the multitude of Marine Reserves in Belize and the fees charged by them. Hopefully this section will clear that up a bit.

Part of the confusion comes from not having a good understanding of where the marine reserves are located. A map showing the location and boundaries of each reserve would be a big help. Fortunately, such a map exists.

The best map of all the protected areas that I know of, including the Marine Reserves, is by PACT (Protected Areas Conservation Trust). When you clear out of Belize, part of your fees will be a PACT fee. PACT in turn grants money to the myriad of protected areas. Each of these protected areas, on land & sea, is typically managed by a separate entity (though some manage more than one). You can find the map on the PACT web site at www.pactbelize.org. A copy of the map is shown below.

[PACT Map Attached as image]


Another factor which contributes to the confusion is that each marine reserve area is administered independently and sets their own policies & fees for each reserve.

Consistency is not Belize's strong suite. Cruisers get frustrated over this, but its just the way it is...go with the flow...it works better for you that way, if you fuss & fight it just makes it worse. Cruisers in the past have gone as far as writing letters of complaint to higher ranking officials, after they left the country of course, which just made it worse for the rest of us, but only temporarily of course...its still Belize.

The fees only apply inside a reserve, there are many square miles of great cruising grounds outside of reserves. So unless you plan to spend your entire time inside a reserve, and near the ranger station, you wont be paying those fees every day.

Actual collection of the fees is another inconsistency. For example, the fees in Southwater Caye Reserve are BZ$10 (US$5)/person/day (legal residents/citizens of Belize excluded), but collection is inconsistent. If you are anchored near Southwater Caye, then the ranger will almost certainly collect because the ranger station is at nearby Twin Cayes and most tourist traffic comes into Southwater Caye. Even at Southwater I've never had them collect for more than one day (though I was often there as a known charter captain and may have been treated differently), but I've usually not spent more than a couple of nights there either. Away from Southwater Caye, but still inside the reserve, I've never had fees collected. I've spent many days holed up in the S end of Tobacco Range, inside the reserve, waiting out weather and never even seen a ranger.

Similar experience out at Glover's atoll. Have spent many wonderful nights there and only been collected from for one day of any given stay, sometimes not even the one day.

Ditto down in Port Honduras reserve, I've spent many nights anchored in New Haven Bay over almost a decade and only been collected from once. Usually I was the only boat there, but the time they collected a few other cruising boats had come in. I think when they saw multiple boats it made it worthwhile to run up and collect. I've also discussed with the rangers there the maximum they would collect if you were there for an extended period. It amounted to just a few nights in fees even if you were there for a month.

However, while they are permitted to charge a fee to be in the reserve area they are not permitted to charge a separate fee for anchoring. Any legitimate park ranger will have a receipt book and will normally issue a receipt without being asked. He should also have ID. No receipt, don't pay.

The fees in the reserves were not implemented with cruisers in mind, but with mainstream tourism in mind. When boat loads of tourists are brought from the mainland, they all pay those same fees...generating way more revenue than the occasional cruiser. The rules just happen to apply to any boat visiting the reserve.

Due to these and other hassles and expenses, some cruisers choose not to visit Belize. That's unfortunate because it is a great cruising ground...shame to miss it...especially since your financial protest will have no affect. Because, in Belize, cruisers aren't a significant economic consideration. Even if no cruisers came to Belize, it really would not matter (except maybe to a couple of bars). Mainstream tourism and cruise ships bring in more dollars in a day than all cruisers combined would bring in in many years.
...
"

From Belize & Guatemala Cruising Notes
https://www.amazon.com/Belize-Guatem.../dp/B06XVWQD1Y

[ks2cs2]

Thanks. I was told I could not enter Gladden, Laughing Bird or Sapodilla without a local captain onboard. That only leaves Southwater MR and a few other cayes. Is that correct?

[belizesailor]

Originally Posted by belizesailor

De nada.

Wow, you found deep spot! But, the holding is good behind Lark Caye and it is a good place for a Norther.

Lots of anecdotal info on how to deal with Sandflies...I dont know that any of it is valid. Staying clear of them is the best solution. Winds at 20 knots anchored well off Lark Caye should be doing the trick!

Cold front season is upon us and its important to your wife's happiness, and thus yours, to know how to deal with strong fronts in Belize. I will post some excerpts from my "Belize Notes" that discuss the subject and a list of foul weather anchorages.

Better late than never, at least its still cold front season.

From my "Belize Notes" re foul weather anchorages:

"
...
Foul Weather Anchorages

In the event that foul weather threatens, there are a number of good foul weather anchorages available. The prudent strategy is to head for one when a strong cold front is forecast, regardless of forecast wind direction.

Brief descriptions of some recommended anchorages below, arranged roughly N to S.

Drowned Cayes. Many bogues, running roughly E-W, divide these cayes and offer a multitude of well protected anchorages and interesting exploring.

Robinson Cayes. Not as well protected as some, but OK as long as wind doesn't go SW. Holding in N anchorage not very good in soupy mud.

Bluefields. Two slightly tricky entrances, but good protection.

Tobacco Caye Range (not Tobacco Caye). Just W of Tobacco Caye. There is a hole in the S end of Tobacco Caye Range that can shelter a few boats. You can also just anchor in the lee if winds are NW-W.

Twin Cayes. Just W of Southwater Caye. Inside Twin Cayes in a very protected lagoon. Entrance is a bit tricky.

Sapodilla Lagoon. Mainland lagoon with an entrance from the E. S of Sittee River. Complete 360 protection.

Blue Ground Range. W of Twin Cayes. Slow going picking your way across the shoals from Southwater. Entrance from the W is easier.

Lark Caye Range. Just across from Placencia. Very deep (60'), but good holding and protection.

Placencia Harbour. Popular anchorage with good holding. Open to the SE-S. Can get ugly here if winds pick up from this direction. Many move to the N side of the cut or to the back lagoon in that case.

Placencia Lagoon. A little tricky to get into, and best suited to vessels drawing no more than 6', but offers miles of well protected anchoring options. There are also several mangrove holes accessible from the back lagoon in case really ugly weather threatens.

Big Creek. The mangrove creek that exits Big Creek to the W and extends for miles, offers many very well protected anchoring options.

No Name Point Lagoon. North of Monkey River. Entrance is a bit tricky so refer to Freya's guide. All round protection with good holding. Interesting dinghy exploring in the nearby miles of mangrove channels (don't get lost!). Drive cautiously in these channels as they are frequently used by tourist boats.

New Haven Bay. Way south by Ycacos lagoon and Snake Cayes. Excellent holding and full protection from almost every direction, except for partial protection from the S-SW.

Rio Dulce, Guatemala. If serious weather threatens then run for the Rio, the ultimate hurricane hole in the region.
...
"

From Belize & Guatemala Cruising Notes
https://www.amazon.com/Belize-Guatem.../dp/B06XVWQD1Y

[belizesailor]

Originally Posted by ks2cs2

Thanks. I was told I could not enter Gladden, Laughing Bird or Sapodilla without a local captain onboard. That only leaves Southwater MR and a few other cayes. Is that correct?

In the past a local captain has not been required for private vessels in these areas, but it may be required now for a chartered vessel. I believe this applies to Queens Cayes too. There is a constant tension between authorities and the charter companies so these rules change often. If the Moorings told you this then I would go with their position.

Historically, a local captain has only been required on chartered vessels if going outside the reef and in a few small more restricted areas like Hol Chan, but given the recent expansion of charter operations in Belize than may have changed.


There are a handful of MRs, but hundreds of other cays and areas of reef. So being restricted from some MRs still leaves a LOT of options. Just off of Placencia for example, in Lark Caye Range there is great snorkeling. You could be in the anchorage in Lark Caye Range for you first night.

Another option is to do what I used to do when working as a charter captain in Belize. Renting gear, getting airfills, etc is a hassle and charter boats are not set up for diving (no tank racks, compressors, oversized boarding ladders, etc..). So, we did "rendezvous dives". We would anchor nearby a resort that had a dive operations ashore (like Southwater Caye or Tobacco Caye) and book dives for our guests with them. This is a lot less hassle and keeps local dive operators and officials from getting their feathers ruffled. I suggest you take this approach rather than hassling with gear and potentially getting side ways with local regulations and local dive operators. Penalties and hassles for violating these regulations can be large.

Note too, that local officials may often have different interpretations of the rules. This can vary from one area to another and often from one official to another. Diving with local operators out on the cayes avoids these potential problem areas and reduces hassle on your vacation. Also, the Belizean reef system is massive, the local dive masters know their area of reef better than anyone and can put you on the best sites.

[ks2cs2]

What is the current security situation in the Placencia cruising grounds. I know there was a very significant issue during a Moorings charter back in 2012 (see attachments) and I am trying to get a feel for whether this was an isolated incident or I need to take additional security precautions (above the normal locking of doors, hatches, motion alarm, etc.). I just purchased a boat with The Moorings and it will be based in Placencia; so I plan to go there relatively frequently.

[belizesailor]

Originally Posted by ks2cs2

What is the current security situation in the Placencia cruising grounds. I know there was a very significant issue during a Moorings charter back in 2012 (see attachments) and I am trying to get a feel for whether this was an isolated incident or I need to take additional security precautions (above the normal locking of doors, hatches, motion alarm, etc.). I just purchased a boat with The Moorings and it will be based in Placencia; so I plan to go there relatively frequently.

This was very much an isolated, and very nasty, event. Only one other attack on a vessel in Belize that I recall, ever.

To my knowledge there have been none since this 2012 attack, but you can view a map of reported events for any time frame at CSSN.

https://safetyandsecuritynet.org/


Petty theft, of things like dinghy motors, is an annoyance, but violent crime against tourists is rare in Belize.

Re dinghy motor theft, lift your dinghy/motor up in the davits every night and lock it. Do this BEFORE you settle in for dinner...I know of several cases where dinghies tied astern were stolen while the guests were having dinner. Once this even happened to a fellow charter captain!