Adhesive for Fiberglass

[BonesD]

Hello, I want to redo the headliner in my boat. I want to make removable panels so I have access to wiring, hardware etc that has been buried for years.
My boat ceiling is fiberglass and I want to install some wooden rails on the ceiling that will entrap the panels. What might be the most permanent/easy/economical/practical for securing wood to the fiberglass. I will probably use screws to attach the wood as well but mostly to maintain the position of the rails as the adhesive cures.
Ideas are good.
Thank you.

[Startracker]

Originally Posted by BonesD

Hello, I want to redo the headliner in my boat. I want to make removable panels so I have access to wiring, hardware etc that has been buried for years.
My boat ceiling is fiberglass and I want to install some wooden rails on the ceiling that will entrap the panels. What might be the most permanent/easy/economical/practical for securing wood to the fiberglass. I will probably use screws to attach the wood as well but mostly to maintain the position of the rails as the adhesive cures.
Ideas are good.
Thank you.

Is the ceiling bare glass or gel coated?
If bare glass, a quick scuff with a grinder and 2 strips of 1.5oz mat over the blocks in a cross shape essentially will do just fine. Step one, stick the blocks in place with a bit of thickened resin or even 5 minute epoxy. Step 2 strips. Step 3 screw your rails over the headliner panels to the blocks.

[BonesD]

Thanks for your insight. Bare glass, no gel coat. The old stuff was anchored similar to what you recommend. I’m guessing I would want to use epoxy resin and not polyester?

[DeValency]

Originally Posted by BonesD

Thanks for your insight. Bare glass, no gel coat. The old stuff was anchored similar to what you recommend. I’m guessing I would want to use epoxy resin and not polyester?

That's the way. And yes, thickened epoxy would work.

[Startracker]

Originally Posted by BonesD

Thanks for your insight. Bare glass, no gel coat. The old stuff was anchored similar to what you recommend. I’m guessing I would want to use epoxy resin and not polyester?

Personal preference. I'd use poly because epoxy and mat don't play nice, and mat is easier when dealing with angle changes like the edges of a block, oh and it kicks faster. If you have epoxy on hand though, I'd use the epoxy and cloth.

[HopCar]

I once needed to install a couple of brackets to store my boat hook in. It was a vertical gel coat surface. I didn’t want to use screws as the fiberglass was thin and screws might go through.

I cleaned the surface with denatured alcohol and used 5200 to glue blocks of teak to the fiberglass. I used masking tape to hold them in place while the 5200 set. I screwed the brackets to the teak blocks and ten years later they were still holding the boat hook. I’m sure it would work as well maybe better on bare fiberglass.

It was a lot easier than dealing with epoxy.

[Chotu]

That’s basically it. Resin or 5200. Or maybe gorilla glue.

I’d just use square rails and glue them in place. 1000x easier than doing unnecessary glass work. That’s what I’ll be doing whenever I get to my ceiling finish job.

Glassing overhead is a drippy, messy business and your arms will get very tired. Best to avoid it. It’ll also take 10x longer.

One way to speed the whole process is is to use a hot glue gun. Stick some temporary blocks along the sides of the main piece. Then attach another block or tape across those blocks to hold the main piece in place while whatever adhesive you use sets.

[Jim Cate]

for low stress joints like these I've had luck with 4 or 5 minute epoxy, thickened to the "no-drip" point with the filler of your choice. Quick, plenty strong enough and easy to apply.

Jim

[JBP]

It's not going to cause your boat to sink, so as people said, whatever you are comfortable with. Polyester smells bad. Chopped strand is serious overkill. You could buy a tube of pre-thickened instant mix epoxy such as Thixo to make it easy.
Note that if your old headliner was the evil foam backed vinyl from Hell, you need to remove the old adhesive. The only effective way to remove it I've found a wire brush on a drill.

[1affiah]

Construction Adhesive, "Liquid Nails"

[Bill Seal]

I've had some liquid nails get hard and brittle. Very disappointing.

[ohdrinkboy]

I used 5200 to mount wood cleats. To the cleats, i mechanically fastened a teak box with my radio and vhf. Been there about 10 years. Solid as a rock.

[BonesD]

It is the old foam backed stuff. Nothing but a sponge these days.

[JBP]

Originally Posted by BonesD

It is the old foam backed stuff. Nothing but a sponge these days.

If you have any brilliant method of removing the adhesive, let us know. I built a dust collector shroud for my drill, which helps some with the mess. I found a fine wire wheel to be better than the standard wire wheel. Acetone and solvent remover are slow, smelly, and messy. I only do a final wipe down with acetone after all visible adhesive is gone.

[BonesD]

The dust is a problem. I’m a live aboard so keeping the fiberglass dust down to a minimum is tough. I have most of it cleaned now. I will only need spots here and there to glue on to as all of the rails will need a 1/2” or more stand-off away from the ceiling.