Best jib size to pair with a Cruising code zero?

[Elzaar]

As Spring approaches, I am debating whether I need a new jib to live on the furler. I installed a removeable bowsprit last year and have been using a cruising code zero with success. My existing regular use jib is about a 140 genoa that came with the boat and is likely at least 20 years old. I also have a very high cut (about 6' high at the clew - yankee to me) jib that is about a 110 - it is also likely at least 20 years old.

I'm feeling over-powered with the 20+ knot winds that seem to alternate with no wind here in the San Juans of the PNW when my only option is a partially furled big genoa. I also have a removeable inner forestay from PO, but haven't messed with that so far.

Which all has me wondering about going for a 100 to 110 jib for regular use and pointing, and depending on the CZ when the winds are light. MY CZ has a cruising cut to it, so it points pretty well in light winds, bearing off as winds increase, and getting furled by about 11 knots on anything to windward.

The boat is a 1982 Wauquiez Hood 38, so built when big genoas were the standard - years before the CZ was developed.

Fair winds!

[Cheechako]

That high cut 110% is about what I like for cruising. How old is it? Much use or a 'closet queen'? Not sure how high yours is though. See my avatar, that's a 115% I think. 130% too much for general cruising for me.

[Sam Woodbridge]

Originally Posted by Cheechako

That high cut 110% is about what I like for cruising. How old is it? Much use or a 'closet queen'? Not sure how high yours is though. See my avatar, that's a 115% I think. 130% too much for general cruising for me.

Hello Cheechako!

[Cheechako]

Originally Posted by Sam Woodbridge

Hello Cheechako!

hello!

[psk125]

When the wind is up and you have to beat, the 110% will move the boat and be easier to handle. When the wind's down or you're being a gentleman (gentlemen never sail to weather) the CZ will move you better. Nice boat.

[Elzaar]

I'm guessing the 110 yankee is at least 20 years old. I don' think it saw a lot of use other than when the staysail was in use, but I suspect just the dacron being that old can't be good. The height at the clew was similar to your boat - about 6' from deck to clew. If that is a 115 then mine is likely a 115, as well.

PSK, are you suggesting the 110 will move the boat in 10+ knots upwind? That is pretty much my target.

[Jim Cate]

For a masthead rig, something like a 95% blade cut will be a great upwind sail, and should be ok in 10 knots true. IMO, that sort of sail would be a better choice than a yankee type when there is the Code sail for lighter stuff and off the wind.

Jim

[Don C L]

Given you describe a feast or famine kind of conditions there, if it were me I'd look for a 100 that is not cut high and the CZ for light air. Is the CZ good for up to 10 knots or a little more? In my own much smaller case, I can reef the main and still keep my working jib up (non furling) and upwind performance is still decent up into the 20 knot zone. Yours will do better. My working jib does fine in lighter air but off the wind I can gain a knot at least with my genoa over the jib. I'd say it's a bargain worth taking. But my boat is only 29 feet, take with grain of salt.

[Dockhead]

Originally Posted by Jim Cate

For a masthead rig, something like a 95% blade cut will be a great upwind sail, and should be ok in 10 knots true. IMO, that sort of sail would be a better choice than a yankee type when there is the Code sail for lighter stuff and off the wind.

Jim

I would second that.

About 7 years ago I added a 95% blade to my 120% yankee on my cutter rig, and have been astounded at how versatile the blade is. It has the same leech length as the yankee so same amount of power in most upwind situations and an amazing amount of power in light wind. While being easier to handle, less heeling, less drag, and vastly better pointing. I hardly ever use the yankee anymore; the blade is what lives on my furler. I had expected that I would use it as a specialized sail for beating upwind and windy conditions, but instead I use the yankee as a specialized sail for light wind and downwind, and the blade for everything else.

I think a blade like that and a Code 0 would be an excellent combination.


For sure get rid of the 140 genoa. I used to have one of those on a previous boat. In my opinion it does nothing well other than light air reaching.


Another tip -- you might consider laminate for the jib, whatever type you go with. Huge improvement in shape-holding and upwind performance, and the durability of the newer autoclaved laminates is outstanding. I think they last as long as dacron sails, while holding perfect shape right up to the end of their lives rather than stretching from the first mile like dacron does.

[Elzaar]

Doesn't a Blade jib at 100% or less require additional tracks?

Cheechako, I've noticed we sail the same areas - though this may be my last year in PNW for sailing. Are you running dacron on your jib or laminate? Every time I look at a new sail I think about this and buy dacron, but this is my first new jib purchase.

[Don C L]

If the clew is cut high then maybe not, but really the upwind advantage will come from a lower cut clew of a blade and probably an additional track will be beneficial giving a better sheeting angle. I suspect your boat could make use of it. Many boats, I wonder if they really get any advantage from the inboard track. I assume they do since folks have put them on, but they don't seem like very high performance upwind boats to me.

[Stu Jackson]

Jib Size Selection 101
https://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,7704.0.html

[Dockhead]

Originally Posted by Elzaar

Doesn't a Blade jib at 100% or less require additional tracks?. . .

Most probably yes.

I provided mine with racing style sheet leads using low friction rings, which give three dimension control -- not only angling the sheet lead up or down, but also varying the lead inboard-outboard.

This is a hassle and expense but worth it 1000 times over in my opinion.

[Cheechako]

Originally Posted by Elzaar

Doesn't a Blade jib at 100% or less require additional tracks?

Cheechako, I've noticed we sail the same areas - though this may be my last year in PNW for sailing. Are you running dacron on your jib or laminate? Every time I look at a new sail I think about this and buy dacron, but this is my first new jib purchase.

I no longer have a boat here. But I'm a dacron guy. Old school I guess!

The nice thing about choosing something with a little higher clew like a 110-115% is you can choose where you want it to sheet to by design. Sometimes a 100% traditional jib with the clew low does have a much different fairlead location.

I love those older Wauquiez's, nice boats.

[Joli]

The problem with a #3 deck sweeper is the leech will open once you crack off and a lead position out and forward doesn't control it well. You need some height to the clew to allow for a greater range of sailing angles with leech control.