Fire Extinguisher Clarification

[flee27]

So my interpretation from the USCG requirements regarding Bl or Bll fire extinguishers is:
Bl=1.25lbs of foam or 4lbs of CO2 or 5 lbs of Dry Chem.
Bll=2.5lbs of foam or 15lbs of CO2 or 10 lbs of Dry Chem.

All the ones I can find at West Marine aren't listed as Bl or Bll. But the average amount of chemical listed is 2.5lb of monoammonium phosphate fire extinguishing agent which I believe is Dry Chem. So it isn't enough to be Bl or Bll.

Can those that know more than me please clarify my understanding which I am guessing is wrong.

Thanks
Foster

[tkeithlu]

A Coast Guard Size A II and BC II is usually a ten pounder, but a five pounder can be rated AII BC I, all of which is confusing.

The real point to understand is that dry chem extinguishers are not very effective on class A fires, because they act by sealing off air, not cooling. They also make one hell of a mess and monoammonium phosphate will destroy any and all electronics on the boat. I carry them, both small ones for the galley (stops grease fires) and a big one because the Coast Guard likes them, but my engine room flood is Halon and my class A fire "go to" is pressurized water. I recommend thinking of it in terms of protecting you and yours, not making the CG happy, as long as you meet the minimum requirement.

[tkeithlu]

I may be a cynic on this, but on a fiberglass boat your best fire protection is your inflatable PFD, worn, because you won't have time to find one.

[JoeRobertJr]

https://www.westmarine.com/WestAdvis...-Extinguishers

About half-way down this article is a chart which says B1 is only 2lbs of dry chem. This is another West Marine reference. I was not able to find a USCG source quickly.

[ShinyHappy]

As someone said above, the B represents flammable liquids. The I or II doesn't represent a quantity, it represents a test designed by, I believe UL, to determine how much fire can be extinguished.

While that correlates to volume, it really means how that extinguisher relates to that test. The label will indicate on it somewhere B I or B1. It can put out a fire according to the Level 1 test. The 2 test is just double the 1 test. The extinguisher could be one of several different sizes, but the manufacturer is saying it passes that level test.

So as long as you have an extinguisher with the manufacrurwr label indicating it's B1 or B2, you are good to go.

Two B1's equal one B2 so you can buy multiple extinguishers totalling the amount you jeed to satisfy the USCG reg.


The problem you're running into is that generally an extinguisher is an ABC extiguisher, meaning it works on multiple type fires. Its not just a B extinguisher.. And extinguishers are usually just measured in pounds of extinguishing agent, not number. To further complicate it, extinguishers won't be rated the same for all three type fires so you'll see different numbers and letters on the same label.

[thinwater]

Originally Posted by tkeithlu

I may be a cynic on this, but on a fiberglass boat your best fire protection is your inflatable PFD, worn, because you won't have time to find one.

Not very effective offshore or in cold water. Perhaps close inshore in the summer... most places.

You'll need another plan.

[wholybee]

Originally Posted by thinwater

Not very effective offshore or in cold water. Perhaps close inshore in the summer... most places.

You'll need another plan.

Regardless, the USCG requires carrying USCG approved extinguishers-effective or not. The B-I or B-II is a USCG approval, separate from other similarly denoted ratings.

The approval is clear on West Marine's website, as is the rating.

This extinguisher is rated 5-B:C, with USCG B-I
https://www.westmarine.com/buy/kidde...98?recordNum=1

[hlev00]

One related note - Dry chemical extinguishers should be stored horizontally though almost all still provide only a vertical mount. The problem with vertical, especially on a boat, is that the powder compacts into the bottom of the extinguisher and won't come out when the trigger is pulled. At the very least, tip a vertically mounted device back and forth occasionally to free up the chemical. A horizontally mounted device will also compact the powder but as soon as your grab it and turn it upright, the chemical should mostly release from the side and break up sufficiently to fire when the trigger is pulled.


Harry
s/v Juno

[CHM]

I am still recovering from a boat fire on a 43’ Beneteau. The little Kidde dry chemical devices work great for a tiny little fire on the stove but are not very effective for anything real fire even though they are Coast Guard approved. I highly recommend spending the money on an automatic Halotron system if you have the room or but at least 5 lb Halotron extinguishers for the engine area. The dry chemical is very corrosive and will ruin anything it touches. Halotron has no residue.