Floating dock vs standard

[Dr. D]

Our marina is installing a floating dock. We are not yet cruisers so our boat is normally at the marina and now at a standard, fixed dock. There will be slips available on the floating dock so we are thinking of moving there. OK, I know the high level pros and cons of a floating dock, but I may be missing on a few points.

Do you regularly dock at a floating dock? Why? Do you prefer it?

We will need to install steps since our boat has freeboard of 44” while the deck of the floating dock is 18” above the water. That 26” is more of a step than we can handle. What other problems might that cause?

If there is already a thread addressing this topic please point me to it; I did not find it.

[NYSail]

Here in NE floating docks are standard and in my opinion superior and more sought after. I pull bow first and use a three step stair to get aboard. We don’t have finger docks between boats. Fixed docks you have to worry about tide changes and dock lines especially when there is a storm surge from a hurricane..... all just my opinion and sure you will here from folks that prefer fixed docks.

Greg

[GRIT]

Where I come from, eastern Canada, floating docks ARE the standard. And there is almost always a floating dock on at least one side of the boat.

As NY SAIL says, most prefer floating docks.

Cheers, and enjoy the benifits of a civilized dock!

Paul.

[Adelie]

Depends on the tidal change. If the change is minor there can be a cost savings being on a fixed dock.

Past about 3-4’ of range at springs it’s probably better to be on floating unless you are against a wall.

[JPA Cate]

Originally Posted by Dr. D

Our marina is installing a floating dock. We are not yet cruisers so our boat is normally at the marina and now at a standard, fixed dock. There will be slips available on the floating dock so we are thinking of moving there. OK, I know the high level pros and cons of a floating dock, but I may be missing on a few points.

Do you regularly dock at a floating dock? Why? Do you prefer it?

We will need to install steps since our boat has freeboard of 44” while the deck of the floating dock is 18” above the water. That 26” is more of a step than we can handle. What other problems might that cause?

If there is already a thread addressing this topic please point me to it; I did not find it.

Dr. D:

You could make a one or two step boarding ladder (you'll need something for boarding from the dinghy). Ours is one step and hangs from the toe rail. Another common solution is to use a milk crate, to which you have affixed a plywood cover for the bottom (I used cable ties for that). It is easier to store the step than the milk crate. If you go with the milk crate, you'll also want something to secure it to the dock, sometimes the wind tries to take them away.

Another solution would be a folding boarding ladder so it couldn't bump the dock.

Also, there are "fender steps" that you can buy. It would be a single step, made of standard fender material, that you can hang to use as a step or as a fender.

Easiest to store is the plywood step, painted, and with non-skid applied.


Ann

[NYSail]

Google Taylor dock steps...... screw.them on and never look back. Had mine now for 15 years and still going strong.

Greg

[CatNewBee]

In tidal waters a floating dock is great, you adjust the lines and the fenders and that's it, while on a fixed dock you must consider the tidal situation when docking (leave enough line out, have the fenders adjusted to protect the vessel all water levels)

The down side of a floating dock is windage. In a gale it can rip apart (have seen it in France) and cause some damage. Standard Docks are more rigid. On the other hand, when you slam to a hard concrete dock in a gale, maybe you will have more severe damages on the boat.

[Pete7]

With a 5m tidal range, floating docks are essential and in the UK even marinas with locks have them to cope with smaller tidal ranges.

We use a triangular fender as a step if the dock is low and some are. Newer docks seems to be higher to take into account the fashion for higher topsides on modern yachts (floating caravans). It means we can visit other locations and not worry about different heights. Dock boxes and steps seem rare in the UK.

Pete

[thinwater]

With a floating dock there is always some contact and rubbing. This can be considerable in a storm.



If the area is subject to ice you cannot stay in the through the winter (generally).

[taylormobile]

floating docks are noisier

[ArmyDaveNY]

In addition to the good comments already posted, there are some other big advantages to floating docks. For one of the boats, I have some fenders that are attached to the dock so I don't have to retrieve fenders after I pull out. I also use two sets of dock lines at the corners. One set stays on the dock and one set stays on the boat. This boat returns to the same marina probably 80% of the time, so now I don't have to make any adjustments to the lines nor do I have to deploy fenders. At the same time, when I do go somewhere else, I don't have to guess and then adjust the lines when I do return to the home marina, The dock lines that stay at the dock are there and pre-adjusted for me. I can then tie off the second set of lines and I am good to go.


I have two sets for the one boat since it can get rough at that marina.

[wrwakefield]

Since our tidal variations average 16+ ft, our small boat harbors all have floating docks.

High freeboard can be an obstacle, but is no more difficult to deal with than not being able to maneuver close enough to the dock to step off in the first place...

Regarding height to step down, do you know if the marina intends to install cleats, rings, or bull rails for tying off docklines? If bull rails then you gain another ~8 - 10 inches of height above the water to step down to...

If not, have you tried using a 'balanced' spring line when docking? [By balanced I mean a spring line eminating from a point on the boat (quasi amidships) that when kept taut with an idle engine, keeps the boat parallel to the dock. This location is often not where the mid ship cleat is installed; e.g., our bow in entry balance point is a fairlead about 5 feet aft of the midship cleat... Typically forward vs. reverse entries to the dock have different balance points...]

A balanced spring line allows you to lasso a cleat/ bull rail, etc. on the dock from the boat until the vessel momentum brings you firmly along side the dock on the taut spring line. Then you step off [using a fender step or ladder?] and deal with the other dock lines.

If you are interested in more details, we have a writeup regarding docking with bull rails that discusses some techniques we use [including balanced spring line] and includes references to other resources as well. It is focused on using bull rails, but applies to docks with cleats, bollards, and rings as well.

In case some of this is useful...

Cheers! Bill

[nortonscove]

Originally Posted by thinwater

With a floating dock there is always some contact and rubbing. This can be considerable in a storm.



If the area is subject to ice you cannot stay in the through the winter (generally).

I have found that in a situation where high winds occur the floating dock is still preferred. Put your fenders in place and tighten the lines to limit movement. With a sinking wharf the tide makes this impossible and the potential for damage is greatly increased. Here in Newfoundland the docks remain in the water year round and without issue. The key to any floating dock is the anchors.

[TrentePieds]

Quote: "If bull rails then you gain another ~8 - 10 inches of height above the water to step down to...

A word of caution, having bullrails at my moorage: Bullrails do NOT offer you a secure step as you come down off the boat, and the higher the freeboard, the LESS secure the bullrail is as a step. A twisted or broken ankle is ALL TOO EASY to get by relying on the bullrail!

Make or buy a boarding ladder that can hang from your rail when it is required.

As someone else said, where there is a tide, a FLOAT is the only way to fly!

No need to tell you, I assume, that you must NEVER step off a boat alongside by moving forward. You must ALWAYS step off backwards, just as you must always go down a ladder backwards. The stanchions flanking your "gate" where you normally step onto and off the boat must be of sufficient strength that they may be used as handholds as people embark and disembark using the boarding ladder that hangs from the rail.

At my slip, in a very good marina, I had the management insert additional "stand-offs" under the bullrail so my springlines have something to pull against. Round turn and two half hitches is the "knot" to use on the bullrail, just BEYOND the stand-off that gives absolute security that the "knot" cannot slide along the rail under any circumstances.

TrentePieds






"

[deblen]

Originally Posted by wrwakefield

Since our tidal variations average 16+ ft, our small boat harbors all have floating docks.

High freeboard can be an obstacle, but is no more difficult to deal with than not being able to maneuver close enough to the dock to step off in the first place...

Regarding height to step down, do you know if the marina intends to install cleats, rings, or bull rails for tying off docklines? If bull rails then you gain another ~8 - 10 inches of height above the water to step down to...

If not, have you tried using a 'balanced' spring line when docking? [By balanced I mean a spring line eminating from a point on the boat (quasi amidships) that when kept taut with an idle engine, keeps the boat parallel to the dock. This location is often not where the mid ship cleat is installed; e.g., our bow in entry balance point is a fairlead about 5 feet aft of the midship cleat... Typically forward vs. reverse entries to the dock have different balance points...]

A balanced spring line allows you to lasso a cleat/ bull rail, etc. on the dock from the boat until the vessel momentum brings you firmly along side the dock on the taut spring line. Then you step off [using a fender step or ladder?] and deal with the other dock lines.

If you are interested in more details, we have a writeup regarding docking with bull rails that discusses some techniques we use [including balanced spring line] and includes references to other resources as well. It is focused on using bull rails, but applies to docks with cleats, bollards, and rings as well.

In case some of this is useful...

Cheers! Bill

I recommend reading Bill's link for anyone who has to tie up often in areas that don't have perfect protected marina stalls & staff waiting to take your lines. Excellent written descriptions of "single handed" docking/un-docking tricks.


I would like to add one additional consideration re tying up to a fixed dock in an area with tidal rise & fall &/or wave action. This method also works well at a floating slip where there is much bouncing due to weather,wakes,etc.
Do not run your bow & stern lines at near right angles to the dock cleats.Doing this puts a a lot of needless strain on lines,cleats,etc. when boat bounces.
Run your bow & stern lines to points that are at least half a boat length fore & aft of your boat. This makes them into "spring" lines,allowing the boat to rise & fall with the waves or tide,while still keeping the boat in place. Normal fore & aft springs should also be used. /Len