Line side of v birth

[gjordan]

Use lots of forced air ventilation when using contact cement. A fellow I met in Antigua burned to death when contact cement vapors exploded. He was doing a headliner in his boat. Be very careful. ____Grant.

[UNCIVILIZED]

Originally Posted by gjordan

Use lots of forced air ventilation when using contact cement. A fellow I met in Antigua burned to death when contact cement vapors exploded. He was doing a headliner in his boat. Be very careful. ____Grant.

FYI, for suggestions like this, there are explosion proof blowers. IE; One's purpose designed not to create any sparks with their motors. Or to create enough static electricity via their moving high volumes of air, to ignite hazardous atmospheres.
And no, I'm not joking about the latter, it's real.

Something like that is worth doing right. If you're going to do it. And the best option, is an external clean air source, fed through a mask with an air hose. One fed by a proper compressor, purpose designed to create clean, breathable air. Not a paint, or shop compressor.

As with some glues, even breathing low levels of them can; glue the air sacs in your lungs shut, & or cause brain & organ damage. Ditto on many types of paint. With much of it being permanent, if you breath the wrong stuff. Like say, LPU.
And many of the masks & cartridges out there can't get you enough clean air to breath, if you're spraying paint inside of an enclosed space. Thus my suggestion above.


Different take on this insulation topic.
When you're choosing an adhesive to do this job with, don't pick something which, when you later need to remove some of the insulation & liner, requires you to use a heat gun & a paint scraper in order to pull it loose. Thus destroying everything in the process. Especially if you have any wire runs behind it. Or later, wish to alter your cabinetry, etc.

Plus, it's worth buying a little extra material now, for just such an event. In case you have to fully redo a panel or three, sometime down the road.
Just a think.

[Saleen411]

Two words......MONKEY FUR!!!!

Great stuff...esp if you're a retro kinda guy.

[boatman61]

My Hunter 37 and other boats I've owned in the past I lined the hull in the V berth with semi shag pile cream carpet.. without the foam backing... there's enough crap products in boats chucking of fumes without adding slow degenerating foams to the mix..
Worked very well

PS: did not use glues.. I used double sided adhesive tape runs

[Sailorbob8599]

FWIW i used a product called 'Ethafoam' a closed cell product with an extremely high R factor. It was only 1/2" thick, easy to cut with a box cutter knife and fit it into all areas. I used a water based contact cement to attach it. I lined the entire hull and deck assembly down to the waterline and covered it with 2" wide yellow cedar T & G.
It works well for me requiring very little heat to keep the cabin cosy. Furthermore, oiled yellow cedar is a nice light honey colored finish for a ceiling and no chance of freezing your butt if you happen to roll against it in the bunk.

[Cheechako]

Originally Posted by Sailorbob8599

FWIW i used a product called 'Ethafoam' a closed cell product with an extremely high R factor. It was only 1/2" thick, easy to cut with a box cutter knife and fit it into all areas. I used a water based contact cement to attach it. I lined the entire hull and deck assembly down to the waterline and covered it with 2" wide yellow cedar T & G.
It works well for me requiring very little heat to keep the cabin cosy. Furthermore, oiled yellow cedar is a nice light honey colored finish for a ceiling and no chance of freezing your butt if you happen to roll against it in the bunk.

Thanks... I was trying to remember that name. That's what I used on my 31 ft build in the 80's. Same as you ... I put it under the ceiling strips. Cabin top were Port Orford Cedar and the Sides were Mahoghany. It was a fairly new product back then I think.