Lock ideas for companionway doors/hatch

[a64pilot]

The way the doors overlap each other one hasp connected to the "outer" door and the hatch cover would prevent someone from just walking in.

[skipgundlach]

Bring this to the M46x Facebook page, too, if you've not solved it.

Your hatch should go considerably further than the top of the doors. If it doesn't there's something in the way on the sliders.

We redid ours due to wear on the teak; we used one-side-glue-capable teflon strips from McMaster-Carr. Pix of our redo of the hatch and doghouse are buried deep in my gallery; I can't immediately lay my hands on them...

[Terra Nova]

Originally Posted by TCL

...The edge of the hatch abuts the inside of the companionway doors...

That is simply poor design and lack of workmanship, and must be fixed.

[skipgundlach]

Originally Posted by Terra Nova

That is simply poor design and lack of workmanship, and must be fixed.

Not really. There's something else going on; the design he has is identical to our boat. The top rail which makes a bar over the front of the slider is 1 1/4" beyond the end of the slider, and should go over the door easily.

Without seeing his boat, there are only two possibilities for that to happen:

The teak bar has been reattached without the overhang - perhaps reversed on refinishing at some point in the past, perhaps? The bar/teak is not relieved, so it could be reversed unknowingly, making the edge of the slider match the edge of the bar/teak
or
the plates on which the doors mount have been replaced from 3/4" material to 2" material - which isn't likely.

The slider butts to the plates; the 'handle' overhangs them evenly.

Our instance has a hasp and padlock; we've never used it in the 14 years we've owned it, though others in other places may prefer to do so.

But it's entirely possible, as well, to use some form of dead bolt, so long as you don't mind digging into the slider cover, and doing some cosmetic alteration to the door which has the outside lip (vs the inside lip, which would be held by that).

[Cheechako]

I can assure you it was built for the slider to go over the doors. Either someone did a poor door building job or didn't care. Many times you need to lift the slider for it move up just enough to go over the doors. But if that doesn't work trim the doors until it slides over properly. That's why the slider shows the screw holes for a hasp... it used to go over and lock onto the doors.

Do it once , do it right. Done right the hasp hides the screws from removal. I usually put the opposite of this picture, put the hasp on the door so it doesnt hang down off the slider.

[skipgundlach]

Originally Posted by skipgundlach

The teak bar has been reattached without the overhang - perhaps reversed on refinishing at some point in the past, perhaps? The bar/teak is not relieved, so it could be reversed unknowingly, making the edge of the slider match the edge of the bar/teak

That's what happened. Pic 3 of the original shows the white slider end parallel with the teak.

Take the screws out and turn it around...