Painting the Hull

[T-chiff]

I have been working on a 69 Columbia Contender 25' (she is my 1st sailboat). When I 1st got her she was fairly beat up. I have delt with some serious mold and paint issues in the cabin. I was not planning on painting the hull but after spending so much time and effort with everything else bring her back to life I want her to look her best for spring when I drop in the water.

I was looking for some pointers for painting the hull. I understand tipping and have done some reading. I guess realistically what am I really looking at cost and hours wise. Any pointers on certain brand paints or types would be great. Looking for some solid information to help me get started. Thanks

[HopCar]

Has the hull been previously painted? If it has been previously painted, you'll have to be concerned about compatibility with the new paint. If you are painting over gel coat I feel that the extra expense of using a two part polyurathane is more than paid back with a longer lasting and better looking finish. The 2-part polys are more abrasion and UV resistant than any of the single part paints. Earlier this year I had my cockpit deck painted with Awlgrip. I'm amazed at how good it looks. I paid a pro to do the job. If I was going to do it myself, I think I would have used Interlux Perfection. It has a reputation of being easier to brush than Awlgrip. What ever paint you use, follow the manufacturers instructions for prepping and priming. Stick with one manufactures products for the whole job. If you use Interlux paint, use Interlux primers and thinners.

[psk125]

Agree with HopCar, with the caveat that if your hull is gelcoat, it will be a LOT cheaper to polish it than to apply paint. Interlux was very helpful with online & telephone help when we painted our deck. (2-part Poly).

[Soundbounder]

Originally Posted by HopCar

Has the hull been previously painted? If it has been previously painted, you'll have to be concerned about compatibility with the new paint. If you are painting over gel coat I feel that the extra expense of using a two part polyurathane is more than paid back with a longer lasting and better looking finish. The 2-part polys are more abrasion and UV resistant than any of the single part paints.

Agree!
About a decade ago, I painted my old Bristol 24 with Interlux Dark Blue. Held up very well

[forsailbyowner]

in my experience two part paints are a waste of money. A cheap oil base enamel can be had at a fraction of the cost. Given enough time it hardens very hard. I put out the money for poly 2 part paint on my first boat. When it came time to repaint i found the paint would not feather well and required complete stripping before repainting. A good porch and floor paint costs about $10 a gallon, feathers beautifully at repaint time and is easy to work with. Enamel paint keeps getting harder the entire time its there similiar to concrete. Jap dry and commercial hardeners are available if your in a hurry. I did a $20 enamel paint job 2 years ago and have had no problems. My boat is in use full time and goes a lot of miles. Thus it gets beat up quite a bit. Try to find any commercial boats using polyurethane paints. Youll see the vast majority using long lasting cost effective oil base enamel. If Im doing the deck I use enamel on smoothe areas and gelcoat on the nonskid finished with a heavy nap roller to make peaks then knocked down with sandpaper to make a finish similiar to a knockdown drywall finish.

[S/V Antares]

Regardless of the pait you use the key is the prep. Any gelcoat crazing will print through the paint. It must be delt with. All hardware (Exhaust ports, thru hulls etc) should be removed befor painting.

When you think you have done enough prep.... do more.

[jzk]

Originally Posted by forsailbyowner

in my experience two part paints are a waste of money. A cheap oil base enamel can be had at a fraction of the cost. Given enough time it hardens very hard. I put out the money for poly 2 part paint on my first boat. When it came time to repaint i found the paint would not feather well and required complete stripping before repainting. A good porch and floor paint costs about $10 a gallon, feathers beautifully at repaint time and is easy to work with. Enamel paint keeps getting harder the entire time its there similiar to concrete. Jap dry and commercial hardeners are available if your in a hurry. I did a $20 enamel paint job 2 years ago and have had no problems. My boat is in use full time and goes a lot of miles. Thus it gets beat up quite a bit. Try to find any commercial boats using polyurethane paints. Youll see the vast majority using long lasting cost effective oil base enamel. If Im doing the deck I use enamel on smoothe areas and gelcoat on the nonskid finished with a heavy nap roller to make peaks then knocked down with sandpaper to make a finish similiar to a knockdown drywall finish.

Pictures?

[westsail42]

Two part linear polyeurethanes are not as difficult to apply these days. I have rolled/tipped Detco/Sterling on a 28 foot sloop with very good results.

Prep is CRITICAL. The high gloss of LPUs will accentuate any surface imperfections: pits, pinholes, scratches, etc. An owner a couple slips down from me did his deck in LPU without proper prep, and it looks REALLY BAD in bright sunlight. Applying extra coats of primer and using high build primers can really help in the prep depending on the surface condition.

Even with good prep, you need to pay attention to temperature and humidity to avoid the paint blushing.

I have heard Interlux Perfection is even easier to apply and is more forgiving.

One disadvangtage with LPUs: you cannot spot patch the coating very easily. You simply cant sand and 'feather' in a spot with spray or brush and have it not be noticeable.

I have been told by my yacht painter friend that the new acrylic marine paints are easier to apply, easier to patch, and just as durable as LPUs. I am not sure you can brush acrylic.

Regardless, if you are not willing to do the prep, then stick with a single part topside paint (like Interlux Brightsides) as it wont show off the surface imperfections as easily.