Single Handed Docking Question

[Don C L]

I'd just add that if your slip does not have these, I suggest adding them:

[Scorpius]

I imagine that the best technique varies quite a bit boat to boat - particularly between monohulls and multihulls.


I have a heavy, 42' steel hulled sloop. You DON'T manhandle her! Generally I don't use a spring line; I use a breast line. Same midships cleat but rather than angled back (or forward) like a spring, I bring her alongside, step off (never, ever jump!), and tie the breast line as tight as possible from the midship cleat to the dock (I pre-hang it on the lifeline beside the gate before coming in). That way, the boat can't go anywhere. If the bow tries to swing out, the stern presses, via a fender, against the dock. If the stern tries to swing out, the bow presses, via a fender, against the dock. Then I put the stern lines on (I use two, like springs, running fore and aft), then the bow line. Then I remove the breast line. Before coming in, I have hung all lines over the lifelines so they are easy to reach from the dock. The bow line is run aft, outside everything, to the lifeline near the gate.


Exceptions to this procedure: If the wind or current (up to 3 knots) is from the stern and pushing me along the dock, I will first put a stern line on, again as tight as possible although not so important (or possible!) this time. If the wind or current is pushing me away from the dock so quickly I can't get from the helm to the dock before the gap widens (never, ever, jump ashore - especially around here where docks can be extremely slippery. Always just step), I have a grappling hook with 20' of line tied to the amidships cleat, that I use to snag the bull rail on the dock (most common arrangement around here) from up to 15' or so out, then spring in on that, then step ashore and put the breast line on. Presto, you are in!


I use two stern lines as springs (instead of a single line straight to the dock) because once I was tied to a friend's private dock with a single spring when a large fishboat came in on a plane (yes, commercial fishboats can plane around here), cut his throttles, and "squatted" right beside me. The resulting tsunami tossed both Scorpius and the floating dock around (out of sync of course) so much that my stern line ripped the bull rail right off my friend's floating dock. Running two stern lines, fore and aft like springs, allows the boat to roll without over-straining the gear. Thank gawd for a steel boat with welded in samson posts!



But as I say, I'm sure every boat is different and has its "best way".

[JPA Cate]

I am among those who think it is more about line handling and less about dock fixtures, but we haven't had a slip of our own for years. Jim made up a spring line that has two big loops on it: It is the length of the distance between the midships cleat, aft of our swept back spreaders' shrouds to parallel with the stern the stern cleat, plus about a foot. At docks with outer, middle, and forward cleats, this works perfectly. He comes in dead slow, or even medium, if he needs the forward momentum, and drops the spring over the outermost cleat.

Now, we discovered this doesn't work with short fingers, so the new way, is to have a dock line in a loop that goes back to the stern (the eye is over the cleat, and also it is already secured in this long bight, also to the midships cleat. This can be taken forward while the helm is set to turn in slightly, dropped over the first cleat you come to and will take up and stop the boat, then take ashore the stern line and secure it, and finally the bow line. If there are two cleats for bow lines on the dock, we take the windward one first, as that helps align the boat in the slip.

NB: It is our practice to place our fenders, and step, and lead all the dock lines to where they can be easily grabbed from the dock before we enter the dock area, so that the boat is ready to be tied up when we get there. Also, if there is a chance we might contact the adjacent boat, we fender that side as well as the docking side.

I'm sure it is different for catamarans, but this method works well on our monohull, at 46 ft.

Hope it helps.

Ann

[requiem]

Originally Posted by Scorpius

Generally I don't use a spring line; I use a breast line. Same midships cleat but rather than angled back (or forward) like a spring, I bring her alongside, step off (never, ever jump!), and tie the breast line as tight as possible from the midship cleat to the dock (I pre-hang it on the lifeline beside the gate before coming in).

As you say, each boat is different. I would love to be able to do this with midships line or stern line, except that nearly every docking situation I've encountered has the cleats placed such that the bow would still hit the dock. Thus, needing to run an aft midships spring instead of a breast line. OTOH, if you can get the cleats placed properly....

Apart from that, vociferous agreement on stopping the boat, stepping off, and having the lines prepped.

[poopship]

We have similar sized boats , similar styles. It's just going to take some practice. when turning into the slip row I throw the engine into neutral and glide to my turn. with a proper practice of engine reversing you should be able to get the boat to a standstill so you can hop off and secure lines. Checking out some of this advice I actually dont have anything productive to add except practice makes perfect.

[Letterkenny]

Some clarity to provide here. I have it down coming into the slip and usually have to come in a bit hot given the need to keep the rudders engaged. That said, I always come to a complete stop within the slip and have no issue doing this. This is just timing my speed, trying to burn off enough in the turn, and then reversing in the slip to come to a stop. I don’t rely on the spring to stop, just use it as my first line I can tie off. After I come to a stop and go for the first line, the boat will slowly get a bit “diagonal” in the slip until i can get a second line on and straighten it out. It touches the dock at very slow speeds (after all forward momentum has been stopped) and I can’t imagine it would cause any damage but I am thinking adding a bow fender or some product in the bow section of my slip because I can’t really put a fender up there where it will touch. I have dock wheels in the stern and a cleat already in place that I put an extra fender I have there so that’s always well protected.

I have uploaded the best sort of overview I could find of my slip as a guide. It is very conducive to single handling I believe and I am more so looking to perfect the setup.

[deblen]

If it is YOUR (rented) slip,why can't you improve it?
If the slip has no mid cleat or attachment point,add one.This can be as simple as a line run between bow & stern points with an eye at the midship cleat point.


Note to Scorpious: I dock in a commercial port also.That is why I also tie bow & stern lines forward and behind my boat.If these lines were at 90deg boat to dock,something would break in rough conditions.Angled lines also eliminates the need for snubbers.
Locals call midship lines breast or gut lines. / Len

[Lodesman]

Originally Posted by Letterkenny

I have uploaded the best sort of overview I could find of my slip as a guide. It is very conducive to single handling I believe and I am more so looking to perfect the setup.

You could thread a rope through a pool noodle and tie it off on both sides, wrapping around the bow. When you come in, it will work as a safety net.

[requiem]

Originally Posted by Letterkenny

I have uploaded the best sort of overview I could find of my slip as a guide. It is very conducive to single handling I believe and I am more so looking to perfect the setup.

Ah, I see the problem! The finger on your port side is bent inwards. You just need to push it open again and you should have enough space to back the stern in!

More seriously, which part of the dock does the bow want to touch? If it's the long side of the finger I'd just hang a fender off the side of the bow. But, if it's the corner "dog-ear" that won't work as well. Perhaps a large ball fender might work. I'd also try idling against the spring to pin the boat to one side.

[Scorpius]

Originally Posted by requiem

As you say, each boat is different. I would love to be able to do this with midships line or stern line, except that nearly every docking situation I've encountered has the cleats placed such that the bow would still hit the dock. Thus, needing to run an aft midships spring instead of a breast line. OTOH, if you can get the cleats placed properly....

Apart from that, vociferous agreement on stopping the boat, stepping off, and having the lines prepped.

As I mentioned in my original post, most docks around here have bull rails - so it's possible to tie any line anywhere along the dock. There's no need to line up with cleats on the dock.

[George_SD]

I'll add just one more thing - you should be able to come in at a speed where you don't need to reverse. While dual rudders spread away from the prop don't provide the same level of control as a single rudder directly behind the prop, you still have enough have control coasting.

BUT - you have a walk through transom and it's much more convenient to dock stern-first. The boat is also more responsive at slow speed in reverse. Use this to your advantage - dock stern first.

[Snore]

Some small Jeanneau have a bow thruster- does yours?

Rig a line around the cement column to port. Have that set up so you can drop it on the port primary and use it to easy the boat to a stop against the floating dock.

Once she stops—pro tip— leave her in gear while you get the rest of the lines on, or at least 1-2 more

[Letterkenny]

Originally Posted by George_SD

I'll add just one more thing - you should be able to come in at a speed where you don't need to reverse. While dual rudders spread away from the prop don't provide the same level of control as a single rudder directly behind the prop, you still have enough have control coasting.

BUT - you have a walk through transom and it's much more convenient to dock stern-first. The boat is also more responsive at slow speed in reverse. Use this to your advantage - dock stern first.

Wife rather me not dock stern first as she rather be on the water when hanging out in the cockpit than facing the dock which is why we rarely go stern to. My experience is you need some speed, otherwise, you can loose it to the wind fast and cause more headaches.

[Letterkenny]

Originally Posted by requiem

Ah, I see the problem! The finger on your port side is bent inwards. You just need to push it open again and you should have enough space to back the stern in!

More seriously, which part of the dock does the bow want to touch? If it's the long side of the finger I'd just hang a fender off the side of the bow. But, if it's the corner "dog-ear" that won't work as well. Perhaps a large ball fender might work. I'd also try idling against the spring to pin the boat to one side.

Yea it’s that “dog-ear” that pops out on my starboard side 99% of the time. A lot of the time, it’s the actual plumb part of the bow that will come give that side a light tap. Was thinking of putting something like this along the front there.

https://www.amazon.com/Hull-Hugr-Mar...ci_mcx_mi&th=1

[Scorpius]

Originally Posted by requiem

As you say, each boat is different. I would love to be able to do this with midships line or stern line, except that nearly every docking situation I've encountered has the cleats placed such that the bow would still hit the dock. Thus, needing to run an aft midships spring instead of a breast line. OTOH, if you can get the cleats placed properly....

Apart from that, vociferous agreement on stopping the boat, stepping off, and having the lines prepped.

As I mentioned in my original post, around here most docks have bull rails, not cleats - so you can tie any line pretty well anywhere along the dock.