Teak Toe Rail Repair

[Bowdrie]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

I tried that with Jatoba

Ah yes, Jatoba.
Off hand I can't remember that wood being specifically mentioned before on the forums.
It's a wonderful wood for many things, in particular it is among the stiffest of woods, even thin sections show a remarkable resistance to bending.

[nelly]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

When you leave the wood aboard unfinished and expose it to frost/thaw cycles then yes, you are better off with epoxy, but note that this won’t survive the first summer because of UV deterioration, for which it requires protection by putting a finish on the wood.

All glues that I know require a finish when used outdoors.

The reason that Titebond 3 is waterproof is because it has proven to be, not because I write it. The tests I mentioned are solid and accepted worldwide by the whole industry.

Also, I am not suggesting that this guy is dishonest; you bring up that word, not me, please don’t try to out it in my mouth. What I said is that he uses some of the glues for the wrong application. He should add colloidal silica to the West System epoxy for glue test, especially when comparing it to other epoxies that come with a filler added, like JB Weld.
He should not use a thin CA glue for gluing wood, let alone in a gap filling test, that is just silly.
And he should have put a finish on the wood for an outdoors test.

I don't mean to put words in your mouth, sorry. But, reading what I said, I never said you called him dishonest. So, please don't put words in my mouth!

James is trying to aim this towards woodworkers, and plenty of woodworkers do use CA glue for certain applications. Maybe it's just tacking a piece together, or maybe they're just using CA. It may not be the intended use, but people do it, so he tested it.

Also - there are plenty of UV resistant epoxies on the market, and it should also be noted that not all conditions where the wood will get wet will it be exposed to UV. I'm not saying these are good products. I don't have experience with them. Just saying that there is a lot to this conversation.

And, it is not worth arguing about - and I don't mean to. I think we agree on all points except Titebond being a great choice for outdoors. I don't think I would trust it after getting this info, even with a finish.

Maybe our own testing is required. Do you have any experience with the plastic resin glue? Seems UV resistant from googling about. I ordered some (not DAP, can't find it anymore) and will use it on a small project to see how it comes out.

Generally, I don't like finishing all my wood that I put outside. I'm not going to finish a garden bench, for example. Why would I finish that, when I'm making it out of cedar? I might not finish a small cedar deck I'm building.

Decks may not require glue - but the bench probably will. I don't like screwing benches together.

[Fatbob]

Originally Posted by sailcrazy

In my experience of some 40 yrs building with wood (from furniture to boats to ??), as an amature DIYer, I say you did really well! Even if you go thru board after board to find the (near) perfect grain pattern and color match, and then make perfect cuts at the joint....the joint line is still visible. I wish my teak cap rail looked so good! Having used Titebond glues, and epoxies, and other glues in an outside exposure....I'd use epoxy every time...especially on the water.

Thanks. Yes, using West Systems thickened epoxy and then varnishing it seemed to be the best thing for this situation.

[Fatbob]

Originally Posted by Knothardly

Looks great for first time. I have a similar repair pending. Gives me hope and couurage!!!!!

I was surprised, not as difficult as I thought it was going to be. I had purchased one of those little Japanese pull saws from Amazon (link below) and it worked great at making smooth, precise cuts. I allowed plenty of time for the epoxy to dry (24-hours) and then glorious, glorious sanding! The longest part was the 12 coats of Epifanes Clear.....one per day. I wet-sanded with 320 grit between coats and then did one final coat on the entire toe rail to blend in the varnish.

Good luck with your repair.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[DryGuy]

A right proudful job. As a finish carpenter friend would say, putty and paint makes a carpenter what he ain't.

[Seabeau]

For years, I have been removing the wood on my boat and replacing it with PVC lumber from the big box stores. The lumber itself is fairly resilient to impact, comes in a large variety of sizes, easily tooled with normal carpentry tools, and glued with regular PVC glue. It is cheap, waterproof, UV resistant and comes in assorted colors and can be painted with latex paint. Converted so far, companionway slides, and associated trim pieces, washerboard doors and the bases of two 17×17 hatches over the main cabin. Next stop, the 20x20 hatch over the Vee berth.

[limte]

Resorcinol glue is a traditional adhesive for boatbuilding and other challenging applications. It is strong, waterproof, and will not degrade from UV, as will epoxy. Also, it does not have the toxicity of epoxy, nor does it require a finish to protect it. The only downside I can think of is the requirement that it be kept at a warm temperature for several hours while it is curing, It's available from a number of outlets; just check online for sources.

[jtsailjt]

If I could make a repair look that good, I’d want to show to everyone who came onboard!

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by Bowdrie

Ah yes, Jatoba.
Off hand I can't remember that wood being specifically mentioned before on the forums.
It's a wonderful wood for many things, in particular it is among the stiffest of woods, even thin sections show a remarkable resistance to bending.

I found some pictures, Jatoba is a beautiful wood and Jedi’s interior is done in Jatoba. I had to source this hard to find species for some upcoming projects aboard and tested it for this step in our place.

The black line you see where two boards join is epoxy mixed with Jatoba sanding dust. It looks black anyway but like with the OP’s project, I don’t mind at all.
It also shows how I like to mix contrasting boards

The finish is another test… this is Odie’s Oil, which is an old fashioned European Oil and Wax finish. It’s beautiful and this is just one application. I’m still not convinced to use it aboard though….

[geoff3nebel]

A good repair - well done.
If you get clouted again try to scarf in the repair and use resorcinol traditional wooden boatbuilding glue. You should find the repair almost indiscernible

[Fatbob]

Originally Posted by geoff3nebel

A good repair - well done.
If you get clouted again try to scarf in the repair and use resorcinol traditional wooden boatbuilding glue. You should find the repair almost indiscernible

Thanks. Yes, I would definitely try that next time.

[the stargazer]

Originally Posted by Fatbob

After 12 coats of Epifanes Clear, not a perfect match but not too bad.

Attachment 275539

That looks fantastic.