Teak Toe Rail Repair

[Fatbob]

The teak toe rail on our boat was damaged during a storm and I tackled the repair myself. I'm 100% a novice woodworker and spent a lot of time watching YouTube before I began. I did learned a few lessons for next time. I should have chiseled the joint a bit better to make a tighter fit and minimize the glue joints. After ten (or more) coats of Epifanes, hopefully it will hide some of my sins.

I used West Systems Epoxy with 405 Filleting Blend Adhesive Filler.

[glenn.225]

Not bad at all for first attempt. It does take practice to get close joints on three or more sides.

[Fatbob]

Originally Posted by glenn.225

Not bad at all for first attempt. It does take practice to get close joints on three or more sides.

Thanks.

[Knotical]

That looks very good, Epiphanes will make it even better.

[s/v Jedi]

I think the fitting is very good but you used epoxy for the adhesive. This will always show that dark line. It would become invisible when using an adhesive like Titebond III but you can see the difference in wood so why bother, I think the epoxy glue line looks great and is a feature of the repair

[Fatbob]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

I think the fitting is very good but you used epoxy for the adhesive. This will always show that dark line. It would become invisible when using an adhesive like Titebond III but you can see the difference in wood so why bother, I think the epoxy glue line looks great and is a feature of the repair

Thanks, I'll try Titebond III next time, good advice. Yes, the glue lines will be a reminder that the boat survived Ian.

[neilpride]

Excellent, even the grain has continuity.
Good job.

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by Fatbob

Thanks, I'll try Titebond III next time, good advice. Yes, the glue lines will be a reminder that the boat survived Ian.

Yes, Ian hit Jedi as well, taking out an 1,125 Watt solar array and I’m currently designing a new 1,760 Watt array to replace it… the extra capacity being my revenge

[Franziska]

Looks great! We'll done.

If you do it again, I'd suggest going 45 degrees at the ends instead of 90.

Wood bonds better if it's not pure endgrain.


Sent from my MHA-L29 using Cruisers Sailing Forum mobile app

[Jamme]

Great job! As to the black lines showing, think of them as your Kintsugi artwork [emoji3]

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kintsugi

[Pendragon35]

I think it looks amazing, you did a great job...inspiring me to work on mine, which have some dings.

[Fatbob]

Originally Posted by Pendragon35

I think it looks amazing, you did a great job...inspiring me to work on mine, which have some dings.

Thanks. Teak is rather easy to work.

[Ziggy]

Several years ago, my teak toerail was damaged by a hit and run boater. (My boat was on a mooring and it was hit while unoccupied.) The repair was done by a reputable boatyard that looked very good, with very tight "Z" scarfed joints. But when a joint too tight it leaves no room for expansion and the teak on one side split. I'm not sure what the solution is. Leaving a small gap and using a flexible adhesive might work better.

[Fatbob]

Originally Posted by Ziggy

Several years ago, my teak toerail was damaged by a hit and run boater. (My boat was on a mooring and it was hit while unoccupied.) The repair was done by a reputable boatyard that looked very good, with very tight "Z" scarfed joints. But when a joint too tight it leaves no room for expansion and the teak on one side split. I'm not sure what the solution is. Leaving a small gap and using a flexible adhesive might work better.

Good point. I used West Systems epoxy and because my woodworking is limited, no fear of a tight joint.

[Dockhead]

Fishing for compliments, eh?

Well, OK -- it's really good looking work. There.

You could work on my toerail anytime, and I'd pay you good money.