Winterizing

[paulg222]

Boat is in CT and it's my first winter with her. I'm still deciding whether to store in water (previous owners did) or on land (mast up).

Seacocks: I've heard its a good idea to remove the hose from seacock and drain any water from there (even using turkey baster to remove water). Is that necessary, or strongly advised?

Note: disconnecting perfectly good hose connections on extremely critical components (thru hulls) seems a bit scary to this noob as the chance of putting them back on incorrectly (not tight enough etc) seems high but maybe those hose clamps are idiot proof?.

I have Yanmar 2GM20F Engine (freshwater cooled version with heat exchanger to raw).

To winterize engine, do I need to disconnect raw water intake and put in bucket of antifreeze and run engine for a bit or is that not needed as much for freshwater cooled systems? Is there another approach (dumping anti-freeze into raw water strainer?).

Side question to above: I guess if storing on the hard we have to do that bit once hauled out otherwise when motoring over to haul out we would re-ingest raw water, right?

Batteries:
If storing on the hard, do I need to remove all batteries and bring home and attach to trickle charger? Other options? Do I need to check electrolyte levels?

If storing in the water I would want battery to operate bilge if needed. Which then implies I would have to pay yard for electric in winter ($5/day). Other options?

Some other winterizing steps planned:

• Tank filled and stabilizer added
• drain hot water tank and shut off intake to it
• anti-freeze in fresh water(drinking) tank and run faucet till visible.
• pump out holding tank
• add anti freeze to toilet and pump into holding tank
• add anti-freeze to bilge area
• Check engine fresh water coolant and add to it if needed.
• change oil
• change fuel filters

[Shoalcove]

I have never left mine in the water so no help there. At $5/day, I’d be running heaters if only to get my moneys worth!
Winterize your engine once you are hauled. I use non-toxic antifreeze. I disconnect and put the hose in the jug myself but I’m sure it doesn’t matter which method as long as you find one that works.
I leave my batteries on the boat. I charge them fully and then disconnect then. The self-discharge rate is very low in the cold we get. Make sure they’re charged up though.
Your other list items are similar to mine.
Good luck!

[Mike OReilly]

Hi Paul, I’ve always hauled out and had to winterize so have a bit of experience here. My winters are a lot harsher than yours though, so my first question is: how often do you get freezing temperatures? How deep? And for how long?

Assuming you do get real freezing temperatures (I really don’t know), then yes, you have to winterize the engine and the plumbing.

Seacocks: I’ve never heard of, nor have I ever, removed hoses from seacocks. I do drain the hoses when possible (pump all water through, for example), and I leave seacocks open so water can continue to drain and there is expansion space if freezing does happen. I dump some antifreeze through cockpit scuppers. I’ve never had any problems with my seacocks and hoses.

Engine winterizing: I run antifreeze through the raw water system. I do this by removing a hose, and placing it into my antifreeze bucket. Then run the engine long enough to make sure 100% antifreeze is coming out of the exhaust. You can do this by pouring into the strainer if this is easier. The point is you’re trying to remove and replace all the water with antifreeze.

Plumbing: I drain the water tank. Then I add antifreeze (non-toxic) and run the pumps to ensure all water is out and antifreeze is through all the hoses and pumps. I try and pump all the antifreeze out, but there is always a residue left in the tank which requires flushing in the Spring.

Drain holding tank. Pump antifreeze through head. Leave a little in the holding tank.

Batteries: I have done a number of different things. If you can remove them and keep them on a charge through the winter, then do so. I have also left them on the charger on the boat all season, but this requires power to the boat all winter, which most yards will not allow.

What I do (and have done for years) is to fully charge the batteries. Then I physically disconnect all leads. No circuits possible this way. Batteries self-discharge over time, but cold slows this down considerably. My batteries are always fine when I come back in the Spring, although my winter temperatures are much colder than yours.

Other: Fill diesel and add stabilizer. I add antifreeze to my bilge b/c I get water down there. If your bilge is always dry it may not be necessary.

[mait]

All above is good for winterizing. I always take mast down for the winter. It is not that difficult and gives a good opportunity to check all fittings etc. Less windage for the boat in the cradle, too

[JimsCAL]

Good advice above. I agree no need to remove hoses from peacocks. Just open them and leave them open. I don't put even the non-toxic antifreeze in my water tanks. Too hard to get rid of the taste in the spring. I pump the tanks dry, then disconnect the pump suction line and pump antifreeze through the lines. I drain the hot water heater and put a bypass in the hot water lines so I don't have to fill the tank with antifreeze.

[paulg222]

Originally Posted by mait

All above is good for winterizing. I always take mast down for the winter. It is not that difficult and gives a good opportunity to check all fittings etc. Less windage for the boat in the cradle, too

Sounds difficult to me (taking mast down), I mean the yard does it (assuming I haul out), but they charge extra for all the stuff on it (radar, windex, etc). Plus from the looks of it doesn't look like there is an easy disconnect for all the wires. Also not sure my yard even re-attaches all those instruments, etc in spring. Too much bother for me. My yard of course does not allow mast up land storage but nearby marinas do.

[capt jgw]

Originally Posted by JimsCAL

Good advice above. I agree no need to remove hoses from peacocks. Just open them and leave them open. I don't put even the non-toxic antifreeze in my water tanks. Too hard to get rid of the taste in the spring. I pump the tanks dry, then disconnect the pump suction line and pump antifreeze through the lines. I drain the hot water heater and put a bypass in the hot water lines so I don't have to fill the tank with antifreeze.

As above, I drain the water tanks and pump RV antifreeze through the pump and lines. No need to put AF in the tanks, any remaining water will have plenty of room to expand when it freezes.
If on the hard, leave all seacocks open. Charge the batteries and disconnect, or leave solar panel connected if you have one. Some argue that removing the batteries can stir up sediment and cause more harm than good, not to mention the potential damage to your back.
For the engine, remove the intake hose from the seacock and pump enough RV antifreeze through flush the system.
The instructions for the toilet will say not to use AF, it can damage the rubber parts. Most have a drain plug, open that then pump many times on the "dry bowl" setting to clear the line.

[capt jgw]

Originally Posted by paulg222

Sounds difficult to me (taking mast down), I mean the yard does it (assuming I haul out), but they charge extra for all the stuff on it (radar, windex, etc). Plus from the looks of it doesn't look like there is an easy disconnect for all the wires. Also not sure my yard even re-attaches all those instruments, etc in spring. Too much bother for me. My yard of course does not allow mast up land storage but nearby marinas do.

With a single spreader rig, it really isn't hard, provided you have an easy way to disconnect the wires. My wife and I do the mast on our 36 footer by ourselves almost every year using our storage yard's gin pole (hand operated crane). I don't trust storing with the mast up on jackstands. One yard I used to store at had a power line between the launch well and storage area, so all the masts had to come down every time.
Multi spreader rigs are harder, someone has to go up in the boson's chair to attach the lifting line above the mast's center of gravity.

[Mike OReilly]

Originally Posted by paulg222

Sounds difficult to me (taking mast down), I mean the yard does it (assuming I haul out), but they charge extra for all the stuff on it (radar, windex, etc). Plus from the looks of it doesn't look like there is an easy disconnect for all the wires. Also not sure my yard even re-attaches all those instruments, etc in spring. Too much bother for me. My yard of course does not allow mast up land storage but nearby marinas do.

Some masts are harder than others. Definitely depends on type and size of mast, how much is up there, and attachments. Single spreader masts are pretty easy. Double, or even triple spreaders are more challenging, but still not too hard. Radar, and other mast-mounted gear adds to the challenge, but nothing is too hard.

I used to take my masts off (I had a ketch at the time) every year. With my current boat I’ve gone to every few years. I’ve heard the arguments on both sides as to whether it is good or bad to leave the masts up. My view is while there is added strain on mast and rigging leaving it up over winter, there is also added strain and risk in taking down a mast; especially if it is tall and/or heavy.

[pdxsailordiver]

My boat is in the PNW, winters are mild.
I use a magnetic block heater, I do put anti freeze in the raw water system.

[ranger58sb]

Originally Posted by paulg222

Seacocks: I've heard its a good idea to remove the hose from seacock and drain any water from there (even using turkey baster to remove water). Is that necessary, or strongly advised?

To winterize engine, do I need to disconnect raw water intake and put in bucket of antifreeze and run engine for a bit or is that not needed as much for freshwater cooled systems? Is there another approach (dumping anti-freeze into raw water strainer?).

Side question to above: I guess if storing on the hard we have to do that bit once hauled out otherwise when motoring over to haul out we would re-ingest raw water, right?

Batteries:
If storing on the hard, do I need to remove all batteries and bring home and attach to trickle charger? Other options? Do I need to check electrolyte levels?

If storing in the water I would want battery to operate bilge if needed. Which then implies I would have to pay yard for electric in winter ($5/day). Other options?

Some other winterizing steps planned:

• Tank filled and stabilizer added
• drain hot water tank and shut off intake to it
• anti-freeze in fresh water(drinking) tank and run faucet till visible.
• pump out holding tank
• add anti freeze to toilet and pump into holding tank
• add anti-freeze to bilge area
• Check engine fresh water coolant and add to it if needed.
• change oil
• change fuel filters

I don't remove hoses from our seacocks, no matter whether we winter on the hard (rarely) or in the water. Out of the water, opening the valve drains it all well enough. In the water, they don't freeze. Here. Even though our harbor freezes in, sometimes, water immediately surround the boat is still liquid form. Can't speak to your area.

We run anti-freeze through raw water side of the engines/genset via the strainers. (See also Groco's safety seacocks (SSC) with flush fittings, useful for flushing our AC systems.) Once the engines are done, we have the yard tow the boat to the travel lift, in those (rare) years we haul out for the Winter.

We do not remove batteries, but our batteries are all AGMs (don't self-discharge very much) AND I know how to turn off all the unwanted hidden parasitic loads (stereo memory, CO detectors, etc.). IN the water, we stay connected to shore power anyway. ($5 day? Geez... OTOH, our individual billing is direct from the local electric company...) IN the water I have the option to go aboard and do some chores from time to time, especially on sunny days when the cabin is a greenhouse... and it helps to have electricity on at the time. And beverages in the fridges.

Ref fresh water system; we drain tanks and water heater, then flush the lines with an air compressor. Then disconnect the strainer/pump/accumulator assembly from innie and outie pipe, and run a quick shot of potable anti-freeze through the strainer/pump/accumulator assembly just to better protect those. (Flush the assembly in spring with fresh water, then reattach the rest of the pipe. Keeps AF out of the pipes and water heater...)

We do our oil/oil filter/coolant filter change in Fall (yesterday, in fact) and fuel filter service in Spring. The only reason we do coolant filter changes in Fall though is because I have to remove one to get at the much larger oil filter right behind it, anyway.

-Chris