30 -32 feet blue-water cruisier

[Clivevon]

Sorry, yes the Longbow is a Westerly 31 (not 32). I owned one for a few years in the mid 90s. Good boat. Not the prettiest but strongly built to Lloyds of London standards. Comes as standard with a very solid 25hp Volvo 2 cylinder diesel (MD20if i remember right) with decompression levers to allow hand starting in emergency - but you have to MEAN it... good solid low tech low revving genuine marine engine with a huge flywheel. Parts expensive now though & can be hard to obtain. A website in Sweden bought them all up years ago & now sells at a huge markup. If boat has been reengined that would be good.

[boatman61]

Originally Posted by dokondr

What do you mean by heading here?

Sorry.. That should have read Headlining..
That's the foam backed vinyl they used on the deckhead(ceiling) and hull for insulation and looks.
Its a failing in all Westerly boats.

[dokondr]

Originally Posted by boatman61

Sorry.. That should have read Headlining..
That's the foam backed vinyl they used on the deckhead(ceiling) and hull for insulation and looks.
Its a failing in all Westerly boats.

It weakens the hull?

[dokondr]

Originally Posted by Jono as 2234

Sailed about 500 miles on a Twister, absolute dog. Seaworthy sure, but far too cumbersome. Have a look at a Clansman 30. Oz design but they get around the world

Slow, poor upwind performance, hard to helm, hard to single-hand? Under engine?

[boatman61]

Originally Posted by dokondr

It weakens the hull?

Not at all, its purely decorative, just foam backed vinyl glued to the GRP.. like the stuff inside cars.

[250224]

Originally Posted by dokondr

I know long keel boats are hard to maneuver under engine, especially in reverse, but one can learn to manage this. Please, let me know some tricks here. For example is it still possible to use prop wash on rudder when springing off pontoon and also doing tight turns in confined space under engine?

It's harder to maneuver but it is no problem. One has to think a bit more in advance, know the limitations and if needed you just use lines to attach somewhere. A 30' something boat is light enough that you can push it by hand/stick. Tight turns possible but only in the direction where prop wash helps. Edit: yes reverse sometimes doesn't work well in a specific direction, you then need to think about alternatives (use line, turn, change direction, ask for (holding) help..)

[SteveSpring]

Originally Posted by dokondr

These are good boats. This particular Rival 34 is cheaper then Rival 32 because it needs much more work on it, I think. The bigger boat the more investments in repairs and maintenance. Most probably engine needs to be replaced. Otherwise would be perfect.

The Rival 34 isn't really bigger than the 32, it's all overhang on the stern. Both lovely boats. I have a friend with a 32. If you found one with a new-ish engine and the rest of it was sound, snap it up. That one listed says it's got a Beta 25 fitted, so it's already been replaced.

Check out the Halmatic 30. That's what I have. It looks like a very slightly shorter Nicholson 31. Good interior layout. Sails well. Long keeled, masthead rig. Mine has a Beta 20 with only 300 hours on it and I replaced the standing rigging last year. It's not for sale though!

[thomm225]

With an outboard on a bracket, the old full keel boats are easier to maneuver than just about any other sailboat out there.

My outboard turns through a range of 190 degrees so I can move my boat directly 90 degrees off center with it.

Many sailors believe they need a diesel, but if you are buying an older full keel boat it's so nice to have a reliable engine to come and go from the dock with.

My boat is a 1974 Bristol 27, but my engine is a 2011 5 hp 4 stroke which I bought brand new in 2011.

Also my "main engine" my mainsail I bought in 2011 also. Both cost about the same around $1500

[thomm225]

Since you mentioned Sweden another good boat to consider is the Albin Vega 27.

Quite a few have circumnavigated.

They are Swedish build but quite small.

https://solotheamericas.org/

http://www.theadventuresoftarka.com/tarkaforsale/

[dokondr]

Originally Posted by blu3534

It's harder to maneuver but it is no problem. One has to think a bit more in advance, know the limitations and if needed you just use lines to attach somewhere. A 30' something boat is light enough that you can push it by hand/stick. Tight turns possible but only in the direction where prop wash helps. Edit: yes reverse sometimes doesn't work well in a specific direction, you then need to think about alternatives (use line, turn, change direction, ask for (holding) help..)

I wonder how one parks long keel in marinas where they park only stern to (Mediterranean way) or bow to the quay with moorings. As I understand you come in with you bow and there should not be a big difference doing this maneuver compared to a fin keel boat. Yet, when reversing out to leave harbor it should be more involved with a long keel. Can one do it without extra lines for pivot points or help from others ashore?

[Michael Cobbe]

I bought a heavy displacement steel ketch which weighed 15 tons fully loaded. It had a long keel with a cutaway forefoot. Problem prop walk, I would end up four pontoons down so I had to fix it. Put a rope around a cleat behind the boat then lead the double rope back to amidships and tie it, I had a cleat there. Make sure it is easy to get off for when you leave the pontoon. Start the engine, put in reverse then up to 1,000 rpm then wait until there is water flowing over the prop, then pull the rope in as fast as possible. You will go straight back.

[SteveSpring]

Originally Posted by dokondr

I wonder how one parks long keel in marinas where they park only stern to (Mediterranean way) or bow to the quay with moorings. As I understand you come in with you bow and there should not be a big difference doing this maneuver compared to a fin keel boat. Yet, when reversing out to leave harbor it should be more involved with a long keel. Can one do it without extra lines for pivot points or help from others ashore?

The main issue starting off in astern is propwalk. My boat kicks the stern to port going astern, so I manually push the boat a couple of feet to starboard to begin with and try to get some way on quickly. Once she starts moving, there is better steerage. This is off a normal finger pontoon, not a med mooring to a quayside, but I assume you could fend off from the boat next to you.

[dokondr]

Originally Posted by SteveSpring

The main issue starting off in astern is propwalk. My boat kicks the stern to port going astern, so I manually push the boat a couple of feet to starboard to begin with and try to get some way on quickly. Once she starts moving, there is better steerage. This is off a normal finger pontoon, not a med mooring to a quayside, but I assume you could fend off from the boat next to you.

As I understand, because of prop walk, when moored alongside and reversing you stern goes either to pontoon or away from it (depending on what side of pontoon you are parked), correct? So your prop walk works in effect as a spring. May it be possible to use this effect without pushing your boat manually in position before leaving?

[dokondr]

Originally Posted by Michael Cobbe

I bought a heavy displacement steel ketch which weighed 15 tons fully loaded. It had a long keel with a cutaway forefoot. Problem prop walk, I would end up four pontoons down so I had to fix it. Put a rope around a cleat behind the boat then lead the double rope back to amidships and tie it, I had a cleat there. Make sure it is easy to get off for when you leave the pontoon. Start the engine, put in reverse then up to 1,000 rpm then wait until there is water flowing over the prop, then pull the rope in as fast as possible. You will go straight back.

So your rope works as a stern spring that moves your bow away from pontoon, or am I missing something?

[dokondr]

Originally Posted by thomm225

With an outboard on a bracket, the old full keel boats are easier to maneuver than just about any other sailboat out there.

My outboard turns through a range of 190 degrees so I can move my boat directly 90 degrees off center with it.

Many sailors believe they need a diesel, but if you are buying an older full keel boat it's so nice to have a reliable engine to come and go from the dock with.

My boat is a 1974 Bristol 27, but my engine is a 2011 5 hp 4 stroke which I bought brand new in 2011.

Also my "main engine" my mainsail I bought in 2011 also. Both cost about the same around $1500

And reversing? Works well? Also, I assume you are not using much your outboard cruising in very light or no winds, correct?