50' Herreshoff Ketch 1978

[Emmalina]

Originally Posted by Borealis B

I purchased S/V Faith at Napa Valley Marina. Super excited and discovered a goldmine of history in a flight attache case on board. I'm the 3rd owner and the first owner requested all the drawings for the boat, so I have the original Halsey Herreshoff drawings form 1969 and 1970, a suite of about 10 plans. However, the rudder detail and actual rudder do not seem to be the same, has anybody removed the rudder? The second owner lives 1 hour away and i'll be able to meet him this week in Port Townsend. Also, if nobody knows, there is a 4" diameter cap that covers the centerboard pin on the port side, held in by 5 ss screws. I removed the cap and pulled out the bent bronze pin; so one can remove the centerboard on the hard for maintenance by removing this pin. We have a ton of work to do to make her seaworthy and a passagemaker once again. Need to replace the diesel tanks, repair gelcoat and remove teak deck, one known soft spot in front of the coach. Hopefully we'll be able to commit to her full time around the end of summer.

Be nice if I could get a copy of those plans !

[lifeafloat]

Hi, sorry I was out for a bit. Borealis, hope your projects are going well. If you are back up near Bremerton WA please call or stop by. two oh six 931-three 7 five two.

Emmalina, Thanks for the tips. I will haul out this winter and will be sealing up the center board hole as you suggested, I look forward to simplifying that part of the boat. Glad to hear you don't miss it. 150 knts per day is great.

Looking at your manicooler mod, I am assuming your Perkins 6354 exhaust manifold was seawater cooled before the manicooler was added? Is this correct? If so I understand the conversion. Its funny how your engine and compartment looks the same but is subtly different.

It seems mine may have been modified already (or maybe it came from Hong Kong that way) and is already cooled by fresh water coolant system tapped from the cold side the domestic hot water heater tank/hydronic heat plumbing and then returned where the engine temp sensor is located at the rear of the engine. Just a little hose and some plumbing fittings. Seems to keep the engine cool with no overheating problems. Might be a cheaper option for Faith if her exhaust manifold is still sea water cooled.

Propeller question: I have a 24" x 14 pitch fixed 3 blade propeller. It seems too big for the opening as it only has about 1" of clearance at the top when ideally it should be 3 or 4". I am thinking of a 22" feathering Max prop. by chance have you tried a feathering prop and do you have size pitch suggestions considering the aperture size of the Herreshoff.

I also may have a diesel tank leak. yet to dig into that as I am using the good one for now. Interested to her what you find. If I am lucky it is just the hidden fill tank hose that may be rotten.

My teak decks are still good. Basically no real leaks or soft spots after a bit of work 2 years ago. I think it is because the deck is built with a teak core in the fiberglass, so does not rot if it gets damp inside. I used Captain Tullys Creeping Crack Cure all over the deck. First wet the deck and let it dry in the hot sun. Mark all the spots/cracks that remain wet after the majority is dry and grey again. I had about 100 spots. Those are your potential leak spots and cracks, mark them with tape so you can find them again after fully drying out. then apply small dribbles of Cpt Tulleys over and over again on the spots following the directions. A miracle product, works well for leaking hatches and portlights too, without tearing them apart. This may or may not work for Faith depending on how far gone the decking is . Many of my teak plugs are gone and replaced with exposed screws and the deck is thin, that's not a big problem or reason for removal with Capt. Tulleys.

Grant

[Borealis B]

I'm fine to give you plans. I'm pretty busy right, I would like to find a way to upload them to a sight or blog.

[Emmalina]

Originally Posted by lifeafloat

Hi, sorry I was out for a bit. Borealis, hope your projects are going well. If you are back up near Bremerton WA please call or stop by. two oh six 931-three 7 five two.

Emmalina, Thanks for the tips. I will haul out this winter and will be sealing up the center board hole as you suggested, I look forward to simplifying that part of the boat. Glad to hear you don't miss it. 150 knts per day is great.

Looking at your manicooler mod, I am assuming your Perkins 6354 exhaust manifold was seawater cooled before the manicooler was added? Is this correct? If so I understand the conversion. Its funny how your engine and compartment looks the same but is subtly different.

It seems mine may have been modified already (or maybe it came from Hong Kong that way) and is already cooled by fresh water coolant system tapped from the cold side the domestic hot water heater tank/hydronic heat plumbing and then returned where the engine temp sensor is located at the rear of the engine. Just a little hose and some plumbing fittings. Seems to keep the engine cool with no overheating problems. Might be a cheaper option for Faith if her exhaust manifold is still sea water cooled.

Propeller question: I have a 24" x 14 pitch fixed 3 blade propeller. It seems too big for the opening as it only has about 1" of clearance at the top when ideally it should be 3 or 4". I am thinking of a 22" feathering Max prop. by chance have you tried a feathering prop and do you have size pitch suggestions considering the aperture size of the Herreshoff.

I also may have a diesel tank leak. yet to dig into that as I am using the good one for now. Interested to her what you find. If I am lucky it is just the hidden fill tank hose that may be rotten.

My teak decks are still good. Basically no real leaks or soft spots after a bit of work 2 years ago. I think it is because the deck is built with a teak core in the fiberglass, so does not rot if it gets damp inside. I used Captain Tullys Creeping Crack Cure all over the deck. First wet the deck and let it dry in the hot sun. Mark all the spots/cracks that remain wet after the majority is dry and grey again. I had about 100 spots. Those are your potential leak spots and cracks, mark them with tape so you can find them again after fully drying out. then apply small dribbles of Cpt Tulleys over and over again on the spots following the directions. A miracle product, works well for leaking hatches and portlights too, without tearing them apart. This may or may not work for Faith depending on how far gone the decking is . Many of my teak plugs are gone and replaced with exposed screws and the deck is thin, that's not a big problem or reason for removal with Capt. Tulleys.

Grant

I have the 24x14 prop never had an issue with it but have to make my own anodes !

[Emmalina]

Originally Posted by Borealis B

I'm fine to give you plans. I'm pretty busy right, I would like to find a way to upload them to a sight or blog.

OK cheers when you have time let me know.

[robvb]

Dears, we also just purchased a Herreshoff Carribean 50 and I started a thread about the refit project here, happy about your comments/ideas/suggestions.