Alberg 35

[advocate777]

Any Alberg 35 owners out there? Have some questions for you-

[smurphny]

Shoot.

[advocate777]

I have been going back and forth between two boats. I really like the Alberg 35 because of its greater safety at sea and it's better sail handling.
I have been looking at several 'tubby' older boats which have more room below, but even if I am not able right now to sail out far I like the idea of being able to, as I develop.
I have been looking at a Morgan OI 33 and I know it is like comparing apples and oranges.
My question is: 'how 'rolly' is the Alberg at anchor or mooring compared to other boats you have sailed? I think two could live extended on an Alberg for months, but others disagree. What is your opinion of these issues such as sea motion, space, and potential for extended liveaboarding for two?
I guess I am leaning towards the Alberg but others think the Morgan would be more practical for our purposes (ICW-Florida-Bahamas....and maybe beyond---Caribbean and Mexico)
Thanks for any input you have for me about your experience with the Alberg-

[smurphny]

Hi Advocate,
At anchor, the deep keel designs are VERY stable. Sometimes you'll see a wake coming and expect a roll that just doesn't happen with a deep keel stabilizing the boat. One of these A35s easily rode out the storm that drowned a lot of sailors in the infamous Fastnet race. What can I tell you?: Negative: 1. They are slow compared to modern designs but more stable. 2. They heel very quickly and remain heeled over
3. They draw 5 1/2 feet which limits where you can go. 4. They tend to have a lot of weather helm, having a large mainsail which requires reefing early. 5. Like most boats of this vintage, they are prone to have a lot of core rot, possible damage from rot from leaking at chainplates. 6. The floor space below is not as large as most 35' boats of modern design. Positive: 1. They will take you anywhere you want to go. 2. They are VERY stable and solid. 3. The glass layup is very thick (as I have tested on occasion:-) 4. They motor very efficiently with a small diesel 5. They are aesthetically beautiful, not looking like bleach bottles or spaceships 6. They are not losing value 7. The rigging and handling is straightforward and easily single-handed.

If you look at one, look for core rot. It is THE major defect to fix and prohibitively expensive unless you're good at doing this kind of work yourself. Refitting/re-rigging one completely with modern electronics, additional sails, and all the gear you need to go offshore will likely cost more than you pay for the boat. I paid <10000 for Philyria with an almost new Yanmar 3GM-30F and have spent 20K refitting her, doing all of the work myself.
Hope this helps.

[S/V Alchemy]

Wow. You got a good answer there. I have a steel full keeler, and the "kinetics" part of the discussion applies.

If you are looking at passage-making, consider the Alberg 37. Just a bit more room, but to my mind a more interesting boat with many of the same attributes. Here's a non-ancient head-to-head review of the 35 and 37.

Alberg 35 and Alberg 37 | Cruising World

They are still common and popular around where I sail, and if you aren't in a hurry, they are a very civilized boat.

[bangkaboat]

Originally Posted by S/V Alchemy

Wow. You got a good answer there. I have a steel full keeler, and the "kinetics" part of the discussion applies.

If you are looking at passage-making, consider the Alberg 37. Just a bit more room, but to my mind a more interesting boat with many of the same attributes. Here's a non-ancient head-to-head review of the 35 and 37.

Alberg 35 and Alberg 37 | Cruising World

They are still common and popular around where I sail, and if you aren't in a hurry, they are a very civilized boat.

When looking at an Alberg 35 last year, I was told by some owners on the 'net that, unlike the 37, not all 35s and 30s have lead keels. I haven't owned one(of any size) myself, but thought it worth mentioning.

[smurphny]

I have heard that as well about steel being used as ballast but I can tell you that my 1967--#273, has Pb as ballast. Unwillingly, confirmed this last summer when patching up a 6 knot encounter with some granite when Lake Champlain was very low. By the way, the positive side of having to do this repair was that I found out that these keels can take a tremendous hit without major consequence and that the repair is straightforward and fairly easy. As I ground down and feathered out the 1+" thick bottom glass (12:1=12''!), it was apparent that I was not the first to repair this same area.
Alchemy, I agree about the 37. It was my first choice when looking around for a boat to rescue but couldn't find one in "fix-up" condition which was part of the mission. I enjoy fixing them up as much as sailing them. Still keep my eyes open for a 37 with weeds growing around it in someone's pasture.

[slap]

Originally Posted by bangkaboat

When looking at an Alberg 35 last year, I was told by some owners on the 'net that, unlike the 37, not all 35s and 30s have lead keels. I haven't owned one(of any size) myself, but thought it worth mentioning.

Since Pearson built the Alberg 35, I doubt that they used anything but lead in them. The Alberg 30 was built by Whitby and they used iron ballast.

[advocate777]

smurphyny
Thanks for your reply smurphyny- Am hoping someone with an A35 on the Chesapeake might let me take a sail with them.
One thing that I really admire in others but am not good at myself is as a fixer-upper. I think I could learn how to maintain an engine but don't think I could accomplish more invasive/restorative repairs. I will have to take that into account after a survey is done. Did you take photos and document your restoration? What kinds of things did you do on yours? What kinds of repairs do you think are most easy for an average guy to learn and which types of things are best done by someone who is experienced?
Thanks for your input-

[smurphny]

There seem to be quite a few of these still afloat so you should be able to find someone nearby to take a sail with. I did have good intentions to take pictures of the repair process and do have some but having your exterior covered in epoxy goo, glass fiber, rubber gloves , respirator, and Tyvek suits is not conducive to holding a camera:-) The repairs and refitting I did to get her up to taking offshore were: re coring about 80% of the decks, including glassing solid under fittings, winches, pedestal, and mast step, replacing all thru deck bolts, replacing standing rigging, installed a Norvane windvane, replaced all bilge pumps and installed additional manual pump below, new radar, GPS, SSB w/Pactor, reglassed inside water tank, anchor roller, offshore liferaft, EPIRB, Jacklines, lifelines(to Dyneema), mast steps, relocated batteries and switch(now have 2 large house and 1 starter), 2 solar panels, additional sails for heavy weather, a lot of re-plumbing and re-wiring, lighting to LED, replaced masthead with beefier s.s., moved chainplates outside (after major repair replacing a rotten bulkhead) and made them heavier. This spring, plan to replace bow chainplate with rugged s.s. unit and maybe put a manual windlass in. Keeps me busy! I've done this kind of thing all my life and really enjoy fixing up basket cases but unless you have the skills, tools, a lot of determination, and a good idea of what the costs will be, it is easy to get in over your head. Know what you're getting into. To pay someone to do this kind of thing would be WAY prohibitive. The wisest thing to do if you're not into doing the work yourself is to look for a boat that someone has already repaired. It will be more cost-effective than doing it yourself.

[S/V Alchemy]

The good news about these sort of systemic restorations is that they can be done in stages so you can do a job in the winter (well, if you have a heated shed) and you can still enjoy and experience the boat inshore.

[kansas1985]

I have a 1962 Alberg, September Song. She is #7 hull. This year our boom started to form a split along the glue line which is at the 3 oclock and 9 oclock marks. Have you had any boom issues? We have made some brass collars to go along the boom to get us through this season, but I believe we might need a new boom. Any suggestions on where to look for this? We are located in Chicago. Please reply to kansas1985 "at" earthlink "dot" net.

Thanks
Bill Miller

[Mouse]

I've just replaced the pulpit ( new and customized) on my '67 Alberg 35 and am grinding down the deck to re epoxy the entire surface as well as drilling out all penetrations to twice the size and filling with epoxy to ensure the prevention of water intrusion into the balsa wood core.
West epoxy is amazing once you know how to properly use it!

[Mouse]

Oh, she is hull #7 of her year and yes she has a 5500 pound poured lead ballast which left a solid and rather sizable space in the bilge above any typical expected water for additional tankage or stowage.

[JimConlin]

For for 25 years, I owned Magic, an Alberg 35 #16 (1962).
The deck needed re-coring. It's not an enormous job.
The ballast was a lump of lead inside the hull shell. The shell under the lump had voids and got dented in a grounding. It was repairable.
On the occasion of being in an anchorage beam-to the swells, a bridle from a cockpit winch to the anchor rode could adjust the angle.
A failing glue joint in the boom is no reason to condemn it. Remove the hardware, kerf out the joint and glue in a spline.

A very good boat. There are times I regret selling it.