Another first boat thread. Alberg 30, 1975

[Don C L]

Originally Posted by xxxxx

Thanks Don!


She's coming along. I have the v-berth gutted, through hulls removed, engine removed and overhauled (runs just fine!), Four forward bulkheads removed and chain locker bulkhead removed. Templates are made. Inside of hull is ground/sanded ready for tabbing when weather will be consistently nice.


I'm sure there's other things I'm forgetting but that's the bulk of it.


I realize I'd said I wanted to do the minimum and launch her but since everything is shut down, I have the time. I'm also luky to still have work to finance these things.


I'm looking for water tank options. I don't care for bladders/flexible. Considered doing a built-in but I'm unsure about being able to acquire food grade epoxy north of the border. I'll probably use an array of hdpe tanks instead.

Wow! You have taken on a big job! Were the bulkheads rotten or had the tabbing come loose?

[mvweebles]

Originally Posted by Don C L

You might find some things of use in here:

https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums...al-153058.html

https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums...id-222893.html

https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums...ed-113368.html

https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums...ge-199000.html

https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums...se-197008.html

https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums...ee-179185.html

For coffee, try aeropress. Similar principle as French Press, but one cup so perfect for off-watch. Very consistent cup of Joe. About $25 at Amazon.

https://www.craftcoffeeguru.com/aero...-coffee-maker/

[Don C L]

Originally Posted by mvweebles

For coffee, try aeropress. Similar principle as French Press, but one cup so perfect for off-watch. Very consistent cup of Joe. About $25 at Amazon.

https://www.craftcoffeeguru.com/aero...-coffee-maker/

Better post that in the coffee thread!

[xxxxx]

Originally Posted by Don C L

Wow! You have taken on a big job! Were the

bulkheads rotten or had the tabbing come loose?

Both unfortunately. Rotted and falling apart from water intrusion at the chain plates, and de laminated in other locations. I knew there was some water damage but only after really digging did I realize how bad it was.

Oh well.


My plan is to go offshore with her eventually, so it's not the end of the world. I'm getting to know her. Showing her she's loved
Plus these days with the world on hold, I have lots of time to do work. The way things are looking, there's almost no chance of getting her in the water until next summer.

[Don C L]

Aha, sorry to hear that, but if you have the time, the tools, the work space and the cash flow, (and a supportive family!) it can be so satisfying to spend time working on a boat! Me, I'm lucky if I can get 2 out of 4 there!
Send photos and post a thread in here and in the "Plastic Classics" social group if you can for all the other folks out there doing, or thinking of doing, the same thing!

[Dymaxion]

Originally Posted by xxxxx

Interesting. I noticed the water is basically running down in the space between the liner and the hull, down to the bilge.


(snip)


It'sa very tedious job especially since I'll have to drill the wooden plugs out first.


Any thoughts on this?

Try to narrow down the bad bolts. I used a non-permanent marker and ran a couple of horizontal lines along below the bolts. Any leaks show up as breaks in the lines, especially after a good rain. Don't rely on a short soak with a garden hose, may take a while for water to seep in, but do it anyhow to find the worst offenders. Do the same under portlights, winch mount backing plates, hand rails in cabin top, etc.

[xxxxx]

Originally Posted by Dymaxion

Try to narrow down the bad bolts. I used a non-permanent marker and ran a couple of horizontal lines along below the bolts. Any leaks show up as breaks in the lines, especially after a good rain. Don't rely on a short soak with a garden hose, may take a while for water to seep in, but do it anyhow to find the worst offenders. Do the same under portlights, winch mount backing plates, hand rails in cabin top, etc.

That's a brilliant idea. Thanks!

[xxxxx]

It's been just shy of a year since the first post about this boat. I figure it's time for an update.

I'll go point by point and update as to where I am. I'm sure none of you have wondered about her. This is mostly a way to keep myself accountable, document my progress, and see how my thoughts have changed over the course of the project.


The boat is not nearly complete. It's due to a few reasons--mostly related to COVID. I also purchased a 22ft trailer sailor and spent a lot of time out there instead of working on the A30

Originally Posted by xxxxx

Overall, I think the boat is in good structural condition and was well cared for.

I was dead wrong on this. Having never been on a sailboat before, I just didn't know what I was looking at.



Tons of delamination, and bulkheads were rotted through. Structurally, it needed work. I have gutted to the bare hull everywhere forward of the companionway. Once those are in place, I need to do aft of the companionway.


Templates were made, and mahogany marine ply replacement bulkheads were made. They're ready to be glassed in, once the weather warms.

Originally Posted by xxxxx

It needs work, but that's not a deal breaker for me.

This is still true.


I am learning a ton and enjoying it. Good thing, eh?


I have a really great friend who has helped me a lot along the way. I am incredibly fortunate for that. It's an exceptional friend who will grind fiberglass inside a sailboat on a 40degree day in Ontario humidity. He's a titan.

Originally Posted by xxxxx

• Exterior of hull appears surprisingly good, no damage, no cracks at keel-hull connection. Keel is encapsulated, of course.

This is still true.

Originally Posted by xxxxx

• Rudder: fiberglass. No hollow spots. Bearing/gudgeons have no play

This is still somewhat true, but I've since discovered there is wiggle between the rudder and the stainless bar that runs throughout. I need to open the rudder up and rebuilt/restore it.

Originally Posted by xxxxx

• Mast and mast step appear in good condition. Spreaders have been upgraded to aluminum. Bonus.
• 4 sails in good condition. New roller furling included, but not installed, and the sails have not been modified for it yet.

Still true, and I think I'll sell the furler. It is still in the box and I prefer a hanked on sail, methinks.

Originally Posted by xxxxx

• Atomic 4 engine. Turns turns freely and seems to have properly been stored for longterm.
  • If it runs, great. If not, I'd remove it and close off the space for storage. I'd use a 9.9HP or 15HP on a lifting transom bracket.
  • I would close off all the air intakes, exhausts, and required through-hulls.

I tore down the engine to its parts and rebuilt it. New seals, cleaned up the pistons, the whole nine yards.


It fired up perfectly.


However, I'm pretty sure I'm going to repower with a 10kW electric system. Possibly 5kW.

Originally Posted by xxxxx

• Hull to deck joint has been through-bolted along the entire perimeter, at approximately 3" centers. Is this factory?

Yes, this is factory.

Originally Posted by xxxxx

• The deck is leaking into the hull somewhere. Could be a window, chainplate, or (more likely) one of the 200+ bolts used to secure the deck to the hull. I'd like to isolate this before the purchase.

Chainplates, cowl vents, windows, etc etc etc.

Originally Posted by xxxxx

• Water tank is serviceable. An inspection/filling port installed. Bonus. I would eventually sand and apply two layers of glass and epoxy for good measure.

It was cracked from freezing water. Gutted, as mentioned above.

Originally Posted by xxxxx

• Holding tank was leaking and was repaired, but not reinstalled. I would relocate the holding tank to under the v-berth, where the drawer normally is.

Removed the entire head system. Will go with composting head (probably C-head)

Originally Posted by xxxxx

• Water got into the keel. Either from the deck leak (rainwater) or the holding tank leak (gross), down through the bilge. My plan: drill, drain, dry, re-seal.

This was a big problem to fix. I pulled all the glass "cap" off the top of the keel, and re-glassed over it. I have a post about it elsewhere.

Originally Posted by xxxxx

• Salon windows are original, non opening, and appear in good condition. Would upgrade at some point down the road.
• V-berth portholes are opening type and appear aftermarket. Plastic hinge on one is broken. Would likely have to replace these before immediately.

The windows (sorry, "portlights") were leaking. I've removed these and have fabricated new frameless polycarbonate windows, as here: https://youtu.be/XaRWHpz6fNg

Waiting for warmer temperatures.

Originally Posted by xxxxx

• Prop is good. Turns freely, but shaft, seals, bearings will need servicing.

All removed. Cutlass and dripless will be replaced.

Originally Posted by xxxxx

• All through-hulls & seacocks are original. Need replacing. Would like to minimize # in conjunction with previously stated changes.

All through-hulls have been removed. Only 4 will be kept: sea water intake in galley, sink discharge in galley, two cockpit drains.

Apollo flanged bronze seacocks and through-hulls are here. Backing plates have been fabricated.



I am upsizing the cockpit drains to 1.5" full bore.


The through-hulls I am eliminating have been ground back, ready for glass.


Waiting for warm weather.

Originally Posted by xxxxx

• It has both tiller and wheel steering. Owner's son believes it was a factory option. Either way, I'd likely remove the wheel and open up the cockpit.

Wheel steering removed. Glass has been prepped to fill. Waiting for warm weather.

Originally Posted by xxxxx

• Electronics: Knot meter, VHF, depth sounder, autohelm. Each in dubious condition. I'd remove the knot meter and depth sounder, and instead install a modern GPS with depth sounder. I'll keep the VHF. If I can get the autohelm to work with the tiller, I'll keep it. If not, windvane down the road.

All removed.


The plan is a self-steering windvane (probably Cap Horn, but maybe Norvane) for passages, and an electronic tiller-mounted autopilot (probably an ST2000+) for shorter distances.

Originally Posted by xxxxx

• Exterior cosmetics/bright work need love. Wood itself is sound. No splits/breaks/rot. Coamings are totally intact.

One coaming board is split at the end, actually. I'll try to epoxy the crack, but I'm not going to stress about it.

Originally Posted by xxxxx

• Chainplates are original. Will replace with size larger and better through-bolts.

These have all been pulled. The machine screws holding the starboard shroud chainplates were badly bent. These factory fasteners are a known weakness in the A30. All the advice recommends upgrading to 5/16" with a shoulder. The factory fasteners were 1/4" fully threaded.


It's a moot point now, since I'll be relocating those chainplates to the exterior of the hull from the bulkheads.



The new exterior chainplates will be 1/4" thick 316 Chainplates, vs the 3/16" from the factory. I will use more, and larger fasteners, and reinforce the hull in a large area, and beef up the tabbing to the new bulkheads.

Originally Posted by xxxxx

• Rigging needs replaced. Probably go a size up, as with the chain plates.
• Mooring lights need replacing. VHF antenna needs replaced.

• A few softspots on the deck, one is under a stanchion. Also a possible source of water entering the cabin.

This is all still true, except the water ingress on the stanchion base. This is in the distant future.

Originally Posted by xxxxx

• Comes with folding cradle

Indeed. I jacked the entire thing up 24", rolled a flatbed trailer under it, and lowered it down. The opposite was done at the destination. It was slow, but it worked well.

Originally Posted by xxxxx

The price is good. Under $2000.

Right. At the time it was CAD$2000, or USD$1500 at the time.


So far my guestimated costs in CAD are:

• $2000 for the boat
• $250 relocating
• $840 annual storage (where I can also work, sand, grind, etc)
• $600 for 4 sheets of 1088 marine plywood. Ouch
• $1090 fiberglass supplies (tools, epoxy, 1708, cloth, polyester resin, hardeners, sundries, everything so far). I managed to get a commercial account last week, though, so this should become slightly more affordable.
• $185 to Moyer Marine for the Atomic 4 gasket kit.
• ~$250 for tools and consumables I didn't already own. For example, I found found that a variable speed 5" angle grinder is much better for this than the fixed-speed 4" version I already owned.
• $450 for the new seacocks, through hulls, bronze elbows, hose barb adapters (I got a great price on these, well below retail, thanks to a supplier account at Noble Trade)
• I may have forgotten some things.

Total estimated cost so far: CAD $7665, or about USD$6000.


I estimate I'll double that, at least, by the time I am done.


The year didn't go quite as planned, unfortunately. But, I tried to make the most of it. A lot of the prep work is done and ready for warmer weather.


At any rate, I have not abandoned this project. I am still working on it slowly, but steadily. There's not much of a rush these days, as offshore cruising seems like an impossibly distant dream.


I'm learning a ton, and having fun doing it. When I'm done I will end up with a boat I know and trust to take me where I need to go.



Cheers all,


XXXXX

[fred4936]

I for one have been following this. I find such threads interesting for many reasons. Thank you for the updates! Sailing can have a steep learning curve, but that is also why many of us stay with it. It is good that you keep sailing as well as work on the A30. Keep up the good work!

[Stuhenderson31]

Thanks for the update! What part of Canada are you located?

[Quintont]

@XXXXX - I'm interested in where you are with your work on Clutha. I knew this boat when it was in Georgian Bay. Hope you're able to bring her back to her former glory.