Bestevaer 49ST

[noelex 77]

Originally Posted by funjohnson

I now expect better updates with video from you two!

Thanks Matt.
A few members have suggested making a video, but while people like you make shooting interesting videos that are of good technical quality look easy, the reality is that it is much more difficult than it looks.

We might give a go when the boat nears completion, but don't hold your breath.

If anyone wants to see Matt and Jess's videos they have a done an amazing job of restoring an aluminium boat:

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=-r96WFHMyAw

[noelex 77]

Front sail locker:

This is a large area at the bow. It is designed to also store fenders etc. The rear wall is a waterproof bulkhead and just in front of this is the bow thruster, anchor locker and depth/speed transducers.

The advantage is that any water intrusion at the bow thruster or the transducers will not flood the boat. The arrangment also pushes the heavy chain storage well back from the bow. The lack of internal fitout in this area also further reduces bow weight. This means there is more flexibility adding decent ground tackle and light ice reinfororcment.

The reinforcment helps not only for polar regions, but gives the potential for reduced damage in the case of impact with floating objects such as logs, containers and whales. Combined with the aluminium construction and 4 watertight areas we have some chance of limping home should the worst happen.

The sail locker has a waterproof hatch, but with the storage of potentially damp objects like fenders and sails it will be more humid than the boat interior where the bow thruster is normally mounted. Not great for electronics. To compensate, we have fitted an IP bow thruster . These are listed as "waterproof, not for submerged use". There is no official IP rating, but the construction is very well done with a large gasket flange held down by numerous stainless bolts so I think with the construction the durability should be at least as good as the non sealed model installed in the more normal position under the bed.

[a64pilot]

With so many ribs and stringers, it looks more like an airplane than a boat

[Pelagic]

Beautiful hot work

[Seaworthy Lass]

Originally Posted by Eleuthera 2014

Hello SWL,

I have the same cooker on my boat. Be aware that the exterior SS finish is quite prone to rusting. Vinegar is occasionally good enough otherwise muriatic acid will be needed.

I thought it would be better quality given the formidable cost.. not sure why they are the chosen brand for Oysters....

GL

Although it's not good to hear, thanks for the feedback.

As a keen cook I searched long and hard for the best cooker and the Espace stood out from the crowd, hence the selection. I found fibreglass polish kept rust at bay on the stainless steel fittings on our previous boat, so I being forewarned I will try that out before using the Espace.

After years of frustration not being able to easily reach the sides of the cooker to clean (and scars on my arms from scraping them under the cooker), one thing that I wanted was adequate clearance on on all sides. This requirement was fulfilled well. At least I will be able to also reach in easily for polishing purposes .

Things are progressing rapidly now. The tiller was partially installed today. The Refleks heater is nearly functional. The mast is arriving Tuesday .

SWL

[Seaworthy Lass]

I am just reconsidering the need for any kind of cooker. I made salmon and prawn and avocado sushi for an early dinner tonight and we opened a bottle of bubbly to have with it. It was lacking something so I hopped on my bicycle to source a couple of blocks of Dutch Tonny's Salted Caramel chocolate. Who needs cookers .

SWL

[Eleuthera 2014]

Ooops.... for SWL.

Had a nasty surprise yesterday. The igniter for the gas cooker had failed (AA battery) and I began the battery change process. The access is under the bottom of the cooker so I lay on my back and using my left hand, I tilted the cooker forward. Surprize!!! The battery had leaked all its acid and this fluid spilled on my face. I knew what to do and jumped into the shower for a long face wash. My cooker is a GN Espace Ocean Chef 3 and is VG quality. So beware of the hazards for other sailors. No long term problem :-)

[JPA Cate]

Gosh, Eleuthera, that's scary!

SWL: Wichard makes a product for s/s, which they claim passivates the surface. It is "Wichinox", and while it is not a lifetime solution, in our use, it has really slowed down the development of rust. It might be just the ticket for you. Hope it works.

Ann

[a64pilot]

I have had pretty good luck with citric acid for passivation.
I’d bet that the rust came from contamination of the steel from a metal brake or similar, it may have been corrected.
I had a supplier of our “gateboxes” on the aircraft I used to manufacture, we got complaints of rusting of the welds. Turned out a new guy where they were being made was polishing the welds with a wire brush to make them look pretty, he was using a regular steel wire brush that of course contaminated the welds and made it look as though the welds were rusting.
Easy fix

[GAP]

Originally Posted by Eleuthera 2014

battery had leaked all its acid

Consider using disposable lithium batteries instead of alkaline. They're a few bucks more, but last much longer and never leak. I use them exclusively anywhere I expect a battery to last more than a few months.

[john61ct]

Converter lets you wire via a fake battery shell into House circuit

[noelex 77]

Very good point about the battery in the oven's ignition.

Leaking alkaline batteries can cause a great deal of damage. Some brands seem much safer than others, but using an alternative chemistry is better.

On board we use a great number of the Eneloop low self discharge Ni-MH batteries. These have a long shelf life so are fine in devices with a long battery life. They never seem to leak. If severely overcharged they can apparently vent potassium carbonate, but even this is relatively harmless.

The resting voltage of these batteries is slightly lower, but the voltage under load tends to be better. I would think with the circuitry needed to generate the high voltage spark a NiMh battery will be fine.

Lithium dry cells are a good suggestion. My only slight concerns would be fire if the battery overheated (it is an oven) and, finally, small circuits with a single dry cells are often not fused, relying on the limited capacity of alkaline dry cell to deliver significant current. Lithium batteries can release energy much more rapidly. I doubt the above concerns have any real practical consequences, but it is difficult to be sure.

I am reminded of the saying no doubt coined by someone who was trying to clean up leaking battery mess:

"Friends don't let friends use alkaline batteries" .

[poiu]

Originally Posted by noelex 77

Front sail locker:

This is a large area at the bow. It is designed to also store fenders etc. The rear wall is a waterproof bulkhead and just in front of this is the bow thruster, anchor locker and depth/speed transducers.

The advantage is that any water intrusion at the bow thruster or the transducers will not flood the boat. The arrangment also pushes the heavy chain storage well back from the bow. The lack of internal fitout in this area also further reduces bow weight. This means there is more flexibility adding decent ground tackle and light ice reinfororcment.

The reinforcment helps not only for polar regions, but gives the potential for reduced damage in the case of impact with floating objects such as logs, containers and whales. Combined with the aluminium construction and 4 watertight areas we have some chance of limping home should the worst happen.

The sail locker has a waterproof hatch, but with the storage of potentially damp objects like fenders and sails it will be more humid than the boat interior where the bow thruster is normally mounted. Not great for electronics. To compensate, we have fitted an IP bow thruster . These are listed as "waterproof, not for submerged use". There is no official IP rating, but the construction is very well done with a large gasket flange held down by numerous stainless bolts so I think with the construction the durability should be at least as good as the non sealed model installed in the more normal position under the bed.

Nice looking workmanship again.

Are you going to insulate this area or leave it bare? If you insulate Anywhere with the frames being so deep you might be tempted to not insulate over the inside edge of the frames. That would leave a cold bridge, so will you cover it and by how much?

The screws on the floor plate look rather small and numerous and I imagine you will want to get in here often to check it is dry. An inspection plate or a quick release system may help you. Will this bilge be painted? How will you keep it dry?

Are some fender-hanging rails going in?

Where does the anchor chain end up? If it gets to the bilge do you put it in a plastic box? That box on the bulkhead doesn't look big enough and too high, what is it?? and with a funny slot? If chain goes aft to the bilge then you break the watertight bulkhead, or not?

[Kenomac]

Bilge pump....

Whatever you do, DO NOT install a KPM Predator pump under any circumstances. We've had one fail miserably after only two months due to galvanic corrosion. The company uses a mixture of aluminum and stainless in the making of the pump... it doesn't belong anywhere near a wet bilge.

[noelex 77]

Hi Poiu

The sail locker is uninsulated (the living areas of the boat have 75mm + of insulation).

The chain locker is a seperate aluminium box attached to the forward watertight bulkhead. It is above the waterline so drains via gravity in the normal manner.

The lightening holes in the ribs also serve as good attachment points for ropes to be strung between the ribs to hang lines, fenders etc. It will need some organisation to store everything neatly and securely, but one of the pleasures of a new boat is arranging small details like this.

The chain locker is a little difficult to photograph, but this will give some idea. There is a bracket on the front for mounting an outboard if needed. The steps down can also be seen.

It is a bigger area than is apparant from the photographs. There is full standing headroom.