Does such a boat exist?

[Mike Banks]

Bipod or whish-bone mast. That is the only easy system, but it requires you to buy a whish-bone boom unless you LIKE loose-footed sails. I do on small cruising boats, much easier on the head than being whacked by a boom.

[Allure2sail]

PM test.

[Don C L]

As boatman says, you'll need a tabernacle. They are not uncommon. I think if you google sailboats in Holland or something like that you'll find shots of lots of them. I know I have seen it. I think you need to be able to remove the boom, which if the gooseneck is on a track is easy to do, just lower it to the cabin top. If not then be able to remove the pin at the gooseneck easily. Then you'll need the A-frame mentioned for the bow and some kind of crutch for it to set in, but you don't need to lower it all the way, right? What are the clearances there? Here's a shot of one. The arms for the a-frame and crutch could be stowed on deck I suppose.

[Don C L]

Here ya go, check this thread
https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums...ink-74077.html

[fred4936]

Having a tabernacle or hinge made up sounds good to me. There was a boat called a Swiftsure that had such an arrangement. They were built in the 1960's, so getting up there in years. Maybe there is one near you you can look at. They are 33 ft long, built in The Netherlands..

[Patrigo]

In reply to posts 10 and 12. The method does involve a hinge. I did it, not because I have any interest in ducking a bridge, but because I like down below to be dry ! I was hit by an intense hailstorm (wind speed indicator recorded 52kn max) carrying a genoa, staysail and full main, soon after the conversion, and since then I look at the mast as the perfect spar. I have given information on this before and have been lambasted for a crazy idea. Probably because the Vikings didn't do it! 150mm above the coach roof the mast is cut horizontally at 45deg down towards the bow. A 10mm thick plate of appropriate size is welded to each exposed face so that when bolted together, the mast is one piece again. On the aft of the mast 4 shaped bits of 10mm are welded vertically, 2 above the join, and 2 below, so that they suitably overlap and a 12mm ss pin is pushed through a hole drilled in the overlap. Undo 4 bolts and the mast can be lowered to the stern. A hole drilled in to the mast, just above the top plate, allows water coming down the mast to exit, and the stump can be fitted as a permanent fixture, and suitably covered to be an attractive feature down below. I spent half a day fitting the stump to perfection without a crane operator bugging me to hurry up ! My brother and I used the headsail pole, suitably stayed, and the anchor winch to raise the mast. It cannot leak.
Nearly 30yrs of use says it works. A PVC tube with 90deg bends at each end fitted to the mast carries the wiring from above, to below the joint. The usual bits of stick, cloth, a piece of string and some goop is outdated by thousands of years, doing it this way.
Now I wait for the avalanche of abuse from traditionalists who cannot handle this idea!
May their bilges slosh with seawater !

[FAST FRED]

A 12H Danforth with a 5 ft rubberized chain can be let down from the cockpit and retrieved with a sheet winch. No cost , little effort.

[AJA]

Originally Posted by Jdege

Can you provide a link with more information?

I'd like to see how that works

[AJA]

Originally Posted by Patrigo

In reply to posts 10 and 12. The method does involve a hinge. I did it, not because I have any interest in ducking a bridge, but because I like down below to be dry ! I was hit by an intense hailstorm (wind speed indicator recorded 52kn max) carrying a genoa, staysail and full main, soon after the conversion, and since then I look at the mast as the perfect spar. I have given information on this before and have been lambasted for a crazy idea. Probably because the Vikings didn't do it! 150mm above the coach roof the mast is cut horizontally at 45deg down towards the bow. A 10mm thick plate of appropriate size is welded to each exposed face so that when bolted together, the mast is one piece again. On the aft of the mast 4 shaped bits of 10mm are welded vertically, 2 above the join, and 2 below, so that they suitably overlap and a 12mm ss pin is pushed through a hole drilled in the overlap. Undo 4 bolts and the mast can be lowered to the stern. A hole drilled in to the mast, just above the top plate, allows water coming down the mast to exit, and the stump can be fitted as a permanent fixture, and suitably covered to be an attractive feature down below. I spent half a day fitting the stump to perfection without a crane operator bugging me to hurry up ! My brother and I used the headsail pole, suitably stayed, and the anchor winch to raise the mast. It cannot leak.
Nearly 30yrs of use says it works. A PVC tube with 90deg bends at each end fitted to the mast carries the wiring from above, to below the joint. The usual bits of stick, cloth, a piece of string and some goop is outdated by thousands of years, doing it this way.
Now I wait for the avalanche of abuse from traditionalists who cannot handle this idea!
May their bilges slosh with seawater !

It sounds wonderful. But I'm a visually oriented learner and need pictures, please.

[Ryan]

Look at how Corsair folding trimarans do it. Specifically the ones with non-rotating masts (F27). The mast raising procedure on a Farrier design is well thought out and easy. No reason it wouldn't work on a monohull. You might get some good ideas.

[Clivevon]

Originally Posted by Don55

I have a problem and need your collective wisdom to solve it. Six years ago I moved into my dream home in Fort Lauderdale Florida and my CD 28 from her slip in Stewart to my own dock behind our house. Couldn’t afford to be on the ICW but am on a canal on the New river a good distance away. At that time I had four bridges between me and the ICW but they opened on demand and I thought it would be no problem. 6 years later it is a problem. It’s nerve wracking trying to hold station while waiting for the bridge opening, the traffic is heavy, the current often swift, and the power boaters indifference to the difficulty of keeping a full keel boat steady when in reverse while crowding me so as to be through quickly not helpful at all. I’m wondering are there any sailboats in the 24 to 28 foot range with a tabernacle or other arrangement where I could motor under the bridges and raise the mast quickly after that is also a safe coastal cruiser?

Just in case you missed it, several days ago I suggested you turned the boat around & headed into the stream under full control while waiting for the bridge to open.

That is your best solution & it is totally free. END of story....

[Clivevon]

Gordon Bennett....

[Patrigo]

In reply to #24 I will attempt to upload some photos.
[IMG]DSCF0419.JPG[/IMG]
[IMG]DSCF0417.JPG[/IMG]
[IMG]DSCF0418.JPG[/IMG]
To fit the stump, I first fitted an appropriately sized flanged sleeve to the coachroof, through bolted to another flange under the coachroof.The stump has 2 rubber rings about 75mm (3ins) apart which seal the gap between mast and sleeve (these rings are used to join bell ended clay sewer pipes). A qualty sealant is then injected in to a hole drilled in the sleeve, just above the top of the lower O ring, and when it starts to appear in an opposite, hole drilled through the sleeve, just below the upper O ring, the stump is sealed forever.

[Patrigo]

OK, somebody please tell me how to upload a photo on this site.

[boatman61]

If you are loading from your computer click on the Post Reply and when the post page pops up click on the Paper Clip in the header bar..
This opens a new page with 5 file select buttons top left..
Click on the first and this allows you to select a picture from the file its in.. Click to select then click on the next button and repeat for each picture..
When you have finished your selections go across to the right of that box section and click the Upload button.
Wait till all are downloaded then go to bottom of page and click the Exit button..
Write your credits then hit post.