Halyard attachment question

[AKA-None]

Originally Posted by Jim Cate

This has not been my experience with such sheaves if they are in good condition and free from any sharp burrs or other defects. If the OP checks them for such things and remediates any flaws they will do just fine... as mine did on previous boats.



However, regular Sta Set double braid dacron is pretty stretchy, and a more modern Dyneema or Spectra (same things, different names) cored rope will do far better at maintaining halyard tension. OP, you might want to rethink that choice!



And finally, a soft shackle will be just fine as a link between halyard and head board. It is IMO an excellent application, for a visual inspection is inherent in each time one gets ready to hook up and hoist the main.







Jim

Sure as long as the sheave hasn’t been wonkered by the cable over the many years since this style has been used.

If you are going to reuse the old sheaves then yes they need careful attention for both smoothness and size. Any rope halyard that doesn’t fit down inside will wear faster even if the sheave is smooth as glass. Eg squeeze the rope into the wire sized sheave will wear the rope out faster than an appropriate sized sheave.

Think of squeezing a 10mm rope into a sheave sized for 6-8 mm wire

Ymmv

[Don C L]

Originally Posted by Iron E

I can't say I'm absolutely positive... I assumed I did because of the length of the D shackle, which is 3"

Looks like it should all fit. But you have a wire halyard? Do you know if the sheaves are for rope and wire? Is the wire damaged or old, or do you have a rope to wire splice you need to change?

[Iron E]

Originally Posted by Don C L

Looks like it should all fit. But you have a wire halyard? Do you know if the sheaves are for rope and wire? Is the wire damaged or old, or do you have a rope to wire splice you need to change?

Am I 100% sure? No

I spoke with other Fuji Owners and theirs was Rope + Wire, so I'm making the assumption.

The worst case scenario (as I see it) is that I install a new halyard. Climb the mast, then find out I have to change/splice the new halyard.

[jalmberg]

I use a lot of soft shackles, but I like to be able to remove the halyard with one hand, because sometimes that’s all you’ve got available ! That’s why those special halyard shackles, with the levers, are so practical. You can easily work them one handed, even if there’s a bit of tension on the line. Getting a soft shackle off would be a nightmare.

[Shaneesprit]

Originally Posted by thinwater

Honestly, on a 35-foot boat you don't need any of those things.

• You could tie the halyard with a knot.
• You really don't need chafe protection. Main halyards don't chafe much because there is no movement (chute is different).
• You will also be shortening the halyard every few years to move the jammer wear point.
• You don't need a splice for strength. Halyards on a 35' boat are sized for stretch and hand, not strength. A knot will not be stressed.

My last two boats were tied, since I had no reason to remove the halyard. The sail stayed on the boom.

Same for me I took the shackle off and tied a bowline.

[Cynara]

We just tied our halyards using bowline.

[Iron E]

Originally Posted by jalmberg

I use a lot of soft shackles, but I like to be able to remove the halyard with one hand, because sometimes that’s all you’ve got available ! That’s why those special halyard shackles, with the levers, are so practical. You can easily work them one handed, even if there’s a bit of tension on the line. Getting a soft shackle off would be a nightmare.

I just can't imagine the scenario where one-handedness would be the issue or concern.

[Iron E]

Originally Posted by Cynara

We just tied our halyards using bowline.

I'm familiar and I've read many threads on the pros and cons of each way of securing a halyard.
I feel a soft shackle would work and a thimble or LFR spliced in may prevent the slim chance of a halyard running back through the masthead sheave.

[Cynara]

Originally Posted by Iron E

I'm familiar and I've read many threads on the pros and cons of each way of securing a halyard.
I feel a soft shackle would work and a thimble or LFR spliced in may prevent the slim chance of a halyard running back through the masthead sheave.

Never lost a halyard in 30 years and thousands of miles

[Jim Cate]

Originally Posted by Iron E

I just can't imagine the scenario where one-handedness would be the issue or concern.

Well, on our boat in order to reach the headboard and halyard shackle on stands on a folding mast step with one foot, wraps the other leg around the mast, hangs on to the jib halyard with one hand and reaches to the extent of one's arm to fumble with the shackle with the other hand. I really appreciate the large snap shackle that can be released with a one-handed pull on its short lanyard.

Were I tall enough to have enjoyed a career in the NBA it might be within reach sans step... but then I would have been able to afford a much bigger boat with a higher sail stack!

Jim

[wingssail]

Originally Posted by Iron E

Am I 100% sure? No

I spoke with other Fuji Owners and theirs was Rope + Wire, so I'm making the assumption.

The worst case scenario (as I see it) is that I install a new halyard. Climb the mast, then find out I have to change/splice the new halyard.

Look closely, wire can damage sheaves and wire damaged sheaves can damage rope halyards.

In these photos you can see the damage to the sheaves from years of wire halyards. The one in the foreground is the main halyard sheave. Now look at the dyneema halyard which has been running over that bad sheave. Next time the mast is down I will have to resurface these sheaves.

By the way, I have used this halyard shackle for 38 years. It is still perfect.

[AJA]

Originally Posted by waterman46

Your picture shows a wire halyard, a steel thimble, an aluminum headboard with SS grommet. A stainless steel shackle is the appropriate connecting device. A soft shackle would be the only part of this connection that is less than robust and reliable.

Save the soft shackles for non-critical items that are in locations you can easily inspect while underway.

A properly tied soft shackle in dyneema would be much stronger. No chafe problem in this application at all.

[Bowdrie]

Originally Posted by jalmberg

That’s why those special halyard shackles, with the levers, are so practical. You can easily work them one handed, even if there’s a bit of tension on the line.

Originally Posted by Jim Cate

I really appreciate the large snap shackle that can be released with a one-handed pull on its short lanyard.

Yeah, this is my spare, it's an ancient Merriman device.
Perhaps there is something more modern out there, but this works fine, easy to operate with one hand.