Installing shore power and wiring

[liveaboard60]

Originally Posted by Golden Echo

Here are some things to consider when wireing AC in a boat.
<snip>
2. Plan your system out specifically for your boat. Make wiring diagrams and when you think you've got it perfect, sit on it for about a week and then come back to it. You'll be surprised the extra stuff you will think of.
3. Shop around
You'll be shocked at the difference in prices between retailers. Some suggested places:
Tinned Marine Wire.
<snip>
4. If a Job is Worth Doing, It's Worth Overdoing
<snip>
7. Tools are Everything
Get yourself a good Rachet crimper. Don't mess with the squeeze type. <snip>

One last thing, and I know I'm going to get fried for this one; buy yourself a Smart Plug outlet and shore power cord. The safety features and ease of use are worth the money. This is a power cord you can hook up to your boat in the dark, with your eyes closed.


<snip>
RB

I am in total agreement with Item 2. And though everything is on a single phase so line balancing isn't going to be a concern, proper circuit layout is very important..

I love Item 4. I hope you don't mind, I going to adopt that quote.. I have lived that for most of my life, just never heard anyone state it that way..

Item 7. It is critical you get a gas free crimp - gas free meaning a crimp so tight air cannot get to it.. And unless you have a grip like the Hulk, those simple squeeze type crimpers won't do it every time.. The ratchet type are pricey. But take care of them and they will last a life time.. Also if you don't used tinned wire, the end you crimp should be tinned.. This goes miles toward achieving a gas free crimp..

Item 3. Yes I left this for last because while I am a 100% believer in tinning the end of the wire before I crimp it, and all of the advantages it provides, I do not understand the advantages a tinned wire would provide especially if it was tinned after it was bundled - it would then be effectively a solid wire..

In closing, the irony of your statement about being fried over the suggestion to get Smart Plug outlet did not fall on deaf ears.. And while some make flame the comment, one would never be fried <LOL>..

flk k

[Dave Lochner]

Originally Posted by Golden Echo

Here are some things to consider when wireing AC in a boat.


4. If a Job is Worth Doing, It's Worth Overdoing
All the wire in my boat (The main runs) is 10 AWG. It's harder to work with but I absolutely never worry about overtaxing my circuits. If I have to plug in a 1500 watt heater I know the wire can handle it.


RB

Wire size should be matched to fuse/circuit breaker size. For the AC circuits, 14 ga = 15 Amp, 12 Ga = 20 Amp, 10 Ga = 30 Amp. You can put 10 Ga wire on a circuit with a 15 Amp breaker, but there is no real advantage. Way before you draw enough current to overheat the wire, the breaker will trip.

Terminals should be properly crimped with a ratcheting crimper and it is better to use heat shrink terminals. This will seal them and help prevent corrosion in the wire under the insulation.

The Smart Plug is the way to go for the shore side connection. Easier to use, better connection, more secure, and it has thermal overload protection.

Edit: Forgot to add Waytexwire.com and GenuineDealz.com as sources for wire and electrical supplies.

[mitiempo]

Originally Posted by liveaboard60

Item 3. Yes I left this for last because while I am a 100% believer in tinning the end of the wire before I crimp it, and all of the advantages it provides, I do not understand the advantages a tinned wire would provide especially if it was tinned after it was bundled - it would then be effectively a solid wire..

Virtually all boat cable is tinned now.

Do not tin wire before crimping. Crimps are designed for stranded wire and tinning wire makes it more like solid core wire which will not crimp as well.

Heat shrink terminals are the best choice over heat shrink afterwards. Inexpensive ratcheting crimpers for heat shrink terminals can be purchased for about $40 and up.