Mainsheet Traveler, set and forget or constant adjustment?

[AuChante]

I could ask a ton of questions about trimming sails, but I figure I should make sure my hardware is in good shape and do some experimentation first.


I can't control my traveler on my hunter 31 while there is tension on the mainsheet. I can crank it in with a winch, but that seemed like too much stress for the little blocks and rope. Say I'm heeling over pretty good (lots of tension) and I want to bring in the traveler. Should I be able to easily get it in?

[danstanford]

generally there is a system of blocks to gain purchase on the traveler car which would allow you to move it without the winch. Most of the time, other than when adjusting twist in the sail, moving the traveler involves dropping it when a gust hits.
On your boat I am not sure if the traveler is on the cabin top or down in the cockpit but if it is on the cabin top it will be hard to drop the traveler and drive at the same time so probably the main sheet should be used for de-powering if you can reach it.

[AuChante]

My traveler is on the cabin top and is 100% a 2-man boat at the moment (experience needed). It's either 3:1 or 4:1 on either side, but it's so aged that it's effectively 2:1 or less. I'm just wondering if I *should* be able to adjust it under all conditions. When sailing it home after purchase, we had to turn up wind if we felt the need to bring it upwind.

[flee27]

Generally speaking you should be able to adjust it without luffing the main sail. If there is enough pressure on the main you can not bring pull the traveler to windwind is also usually when you would not be trying to pull the traveler to windward. Normally this is when you would lowering the traveler to help take some pressure out of the main to reduce healing.

Also in heavier winds it helps to lower the traveler before a tack. And then you are lowering the traveler to the desired position after the tack verses having to man handle it to windward when there is a lot of pressure.

First I would verify that none of the rollers on the traveler cars are seized. And lubricate with a dry lube to help ease friction. New lines might also help if yours are older and stiff. Worst case is replacing the traveler components.

Good luck
Foster

[DEAN2140]

Easing the traveler in a puff is usually not practical with a set up like yours because it takes too long to access the traveler. An alternative may be to leave the traveler centered and route your vang so it is quickly accessible. By easing it, you will depower the main as efficiently, if not more so, then by dropping the traveler. If that doesn't work, just ease the mainsheet. I assume you are not racing.

[Rockinar]

Im still new-ish to sailing. I dont even mess with the traveler. I use the mainsheet instead. My umderstanding is the traveler is supposed to be used to depower the main and the mainsheet is for trim adjustment. I just ease out the mainsheet to depower. It seems to work fine. Probally not best practice. But seems to work.

[Jim Cate]

^^^^

If you have an effective vang, easing the mainsheet is much the same as dropping the traveler down... the shape stays the same but the angle of attack is reduced.

Jim

[AuChante]

Ah I remember being confused as to what the vang is for when I had my Hobie. The best answer I came up with was that monohulls have such a narrow traveler width. It does seem redundant having both.


I do know that the races I've been a part of (fun races at a yacht club, but still competitive), the mainsail handler would use the traveler for fine sail control when on a straight line. I guess it keeps the shape of the sail constant where using the mainsheet+vang is less accurate. On the one trip I already took with the boat, I'd adjust the traveler if the mainsail was annoyingly mis-shapen.

[danstanford]

AuChante, you are right at the precipice of learning about twist and how to control it through these controls, keep pressing on!

[AuChante]

Originally Posted by danstanford

AuChante, you are right at the precipice of learning about twist and how to control it through these controls, keep pressing on!

I do now know that it's a heck of a lot easier to get feedback with the gps speed readout. A gain on 1-2 kn is nearly unnoticeable, but can shave an hr off of a trip.

[catsketcher]

In harbour racing, the traveller will be fine tuned by the mainsheet hand. If the boat is nearing maximum righting moment, then the mainhand will ease main when a gust hits.
You don't want to ease the sheet, because even with lots of vang on the boom will still rise up, this will change the twist of the sail. So easing the traveller just a little down the track is a great way to ease the main and leave the aft edge - the leech- working.
It is fine when you are hard pressed to only have the mainsail working along its leech - maybe the whole front half of the sail is luffing in the gusts (low down). But the leech is what keeps you pointing high, it is not really the genoa that makes the boat point high, even though we use it as a guide, the leech of the main does that - just ask any skiff sheethand.
So the traveller gets pulled to windward a little when sailing to windward in say 5-12 knots depending on the boat. Then when the heel gets high, you slide it to leeward.
Don't worry too much about the speedo - speedos lie a bit. Try and get to feeling your boat. When you get her right, then the helm will be easy, the boat balanced and she will truck along. Then when you look down at the speed she will be doing well.
The best way to learn to sail is to race with a nice skipper and crew. Get down to a local sailing club and learn from other sailors who love this stuff. You will learn more in 20 races than you will learn in 5 years on your own.

cheers

Phil

[wpatch]

AuChante,

I have a 36 Hunter with the over the head traveler. I can move the traveler under any pressure without issue. I would check out the blocks and see if you have snarp or even the track may need some wd-40.

Sailing wise...I set and forget the vang once I have the main up. I use the mainsheet for large adjustments, and then use the traveler to control twist, and as a fast way to handle any weather helm.

I learned the twist thing from a sail teacher I work with, he sent pictures of my boat from about 1/4 mile to show the batton twist. Ultimately I was overtighting my traveller and under-tightening my mainsheet make a twist..once I had that intel I ended up adding about .5 knot to speed upwind.

Each boat balances a bit different but generally you want your battons level and not angled. I tend to run upwind with my traveller favoring windward but mostly in the middle, dump to windward when I get weather helmed. Downwind I let the traveler out to give the main more freedom, but keep it from depowering the genoa.

Have fun playing with your new boat amigo.

[AuChante]

Originally Posted by wpatch

AuChante,

I have a 36 Hunter with the over the head traveler. I can move the traveler under any pressure without issue. I would check out the blocks and see if you have snarp or even the track may need some wd-40.

Sailing wise...I set and forget the vang once I have the main up. I use the mainsheet for large adjustments, and then use the traveler to control twist, and as a fast way to handle any weather helm.

I learned the twist thing from a sail teacher I work with, he sent pictures of my boat from about 1/4 mile to show the batton twist. Ultimately I was overtighting my traveller and under-tightening my mainsheet make a twist..once I had that intel I ended up adding about .5 knot to speed upwind.

Each boat balances a bit different but generally you want your battons level and not angled. I tend to run upwind with my traveller favoring windward but mostly in the middle, dump to windward when I get weather helmed. Downwind I let the traveler out to give the main more freedom, but keep it from depowering the genoa.

Have fun playing with your new boat amigo.

I greased one of the jib winches last weekend because I figured that's the seamanly thing to do with a new old boat. I started with the port winch which couldn't be turned without the handle. I was thinking that I'd end up replacing it. Come to find out, the internals were just "glued" together with the remnants of what looked like original grease. I gave everything a bath and scrub in solvent, regreased, and it's nearly new now!


I imagine the traveler is in similar condition. I did a preliminary inspection and was surprised to see that it had rollers under the track. I'm going to tear it and the blocks (that's what we call pulleys right?) apart and see what can be rejuvenated. The car components looked all metal, so some dry teflon grease ought to do wonders. The plastic block systems may need to be replaced though.

[AuChante]

Any idea how to fix these? The Schaefer site looks like they have replacement cars and blocks, but that’d cost close to a grand. I imagine I could drill out the blocks on the end pieces and rivet new ones on. Not sure about the car. It seems that the metal base is bent up in the middle and is binding the pulleys.

[beanluc]

Originally Posted by Jim Cate

If you have an effective vang, easing the mainsheet is much the same as dropping the traveler down... the shape stays the same but the angle of attack is reduced.

Yet, boats have both...

What am I missing.