NorthWind 47 companionway hatch

[B_Wieberdink]

UI have a new to me NorthWind 47. The hatch in the companionway moves very heavy. Anyone wth ideas?

[TrentePieds]

Kaarsvet? Works on drawer slides. Parafin as used in canning works, but a common candle rubbed on the slides will likely do as well.

I these parts you can get stuff called "Lubriplate". It comes in a spray can but is likely to make a mess that you won't get if candlewax will do the job.

TrentePieds

[B_Wieberdink]

Thank You TrentePieds, I will give that a try

[tkeithlu]

TrentePieds speaks with wisdom, but what do you mean by "heavy?" Weight per se can't really be changed, but do you mean "jams" or "sticks part way" or something else? You may be beyond lubrication and into sanding swollen wood, depending on your meaning.

[B_Wieberdink]

It Jams, I need all my force to move it

[JPA Cate]

I have found that carnauba floor wax works for me. I use a cotton swab to apply it to the surface where the sliding occurs. I also use it for sticky drawers on the boat. I hope the jamming is something wax or lube will solve. Otherwise, it will be a de-construct and re-construct.

Ann

[B_Wieberdink]

Thank you Ann, I think I have to de-construct the sliding


Bert

[tkeithlu]

As suspected. The channel needs to be straight, no warp, and consistently wider than the hatch. The most likely warp is in the hatch, which also needs to be straight and consistently narrower than the channels. Get out your straight edges, calipers, and disc sander and go after that sucker. It will feel SO MUCH better when you no longer have to fight with it.

Best of luck with it.

[B_Wieberdink]

Then I have to remove the hatch, I have no idea how that works on a NorthWind 47

[TrentePieds]

Is the resistance to movement consistent all along the length of trave, or do you mean that there are "hard spots" in some places along the length of travel?

If the resistance is the same all along the length of travel, I would, if it were me, open the hatch fully and give the exposed tracks on the housetop a rubbing down with 120 grit waterproof sandpaper (used wet), then wipe them dry and apply a light coat of "WD -40" lubricant (whatever the Dutch equivalent may be), then close the hatch fully and repeat the procedure on the now exposed part of the tracks on the house top. After that, I'd work the hatch back and forth a few times.

If that doesn't help, then, but not before then, is it time to consider dismounting the hatch. If it comes to that, then give us some photos so we can see what we are talking about :-)!

Also, and you don't have to be a super-dooper draftsman to do this, make us a sketch of the cross section through the hatch slides. That will tell us the principle of how the hatch slides grip the tracks on the rooftop.

I am not acquainted with any means of mounting a sliding hatch onto a coachroof that does not permit you to bring the same tools to bear to DIS-mount it that you (or someone else) used to assemble and mount it :-).

When we see your pics and your sketch, for sure there will be someone in this forum who can tell you just how to fix your problem.

TP

[B_Wieberdink]

Thank you Jolly Roger for the ideas on the companionway. I think I will do a comparable job. I like the hinged doors!

[B_Wieberdink]

Hi TrentePieds, I will not be on the boat before Christmas, I will make pictures then.

I have the idea that it is not the slides but the middle of the hatch that gives the problem: it is like as if the hatch is to thickand does not pass through the "garage" smoothly.

[Jolly Roger]

As you can read from the article, I had to dismantle my sliding hatch to be able to replace the rotten plywood. I also managed to gain another two inches of opening, which made it easier to enter.
Getting rid of the washboards, and making doors was an even better idea, although I expect the purists will scream dangerous, dangerous!
As Trentipieds says, send us a few shots, and I bet someone will have done it before on your exact boat model.

[Bowdrie]

William Atkin, in his writings that went with his boat plans, consistently warned the builder against making hatches and floorboards with a snug fit.
A sliding hatch needs to have some "side-to-side" clearance.
As a previous post brought out, having the hatch rails and the base rails in plane with one another is of paramount importance.
I've used both bars of "Saddle Soap" and the Parafin wax used for home canning.
Both have given excellent results on the heavy hatch on my boat.
I will say that thick brass runners give much better performance than thin stainless strips when working against Teak.

[B_Wieberdink]

I think on the NortWind 47 it is not the sliders that make it difficult to move, there is not enough bottom/top room in the "garage".


Bert