'Pacific 30' - Anyone Heard About them ?

[Tessera]

Hello, I am new to the forum! I just bought a "cheap", ($2,500 Canadian) 30' sailboat and I am told she is a Pacific 30. 30' long, semi-fin (long fin, partly full?!) keel, looks as if it started out full, then designer changed mind at end?! Encaps. lead keel, 8.5' beam, 4.5' draft, skeg-less rudder (want to add a skeg), tiller, looks like an Alberg 30 from waterline up, even bow entry looks very similar, only stern is not overhanging, almost straight. Large lazarette locker, teak cockpit coamings. Is fibreglass, thank heavens, but appears to be owner finished inside.
Anyone every heard of them? Ferenc Mate's book does NOT have the Pacific 30 plans in it like promised, am mad at him!

Built by Pelagic Pacific Industries in 1972 in Victoria, B.C. Canada.

Yes, she's an old girl, with a few blisters, but seems sound overall, four sets of stringers a side, good hull/deck joint. Keel-stepped 32' mast. Bulkheads need proper tabbing, but nothing rotten, she just needs some TLC.

Volvo MD2B that needs work, but was running just before I bought her.

Anyone ever see one of these? Feel free to comment, etc! Thank you!

[Jack Tar]

Sounds to me like a one off that was built from an old Alberg Mold. I know the Alberg 29 molds are still around. Im trying to post a pic of my old alberg 29. Does she look anything like her ? This type of hull is full keel with cut away forefoot.

[Brent Swain]

Lots of them here on the west coast.
The chainplates are a bit flimsey. I saw one pull right out of the bulkhead in the swiftsure race in 1972. They need a bigger backup plate to spead the load.Otherwise an OK boat.
Brent

[Tessera]

Hi;
Jack, thanks for the pic. Mine only has one small (all non-opening) port forward in lower part of coachroof, and the two larger ones aft. I see the 29 has three smaller ones, and the 30 has two. Galley stbd, dinette to port.

The rudder is spade w/no skeg, plus transom almost straight, (no overhang) is main difference. Other than no skeg, keel looks very similar to 29 & 30, size wise. Bow almost identical.

And Brent: I am going to keep my eyes open, as I have not yet seen one around, but of course they are made here, so likely more than one! And of course everyone who sees her says they've seen her before! I am removing all deck hardware to check/fix any core wetness (there is some) and will check the chainplates, have removed four of the six!
Thanks for the feedback, much appreciated!

[shuswap33]

http://www.windwardyachts.com/sb_30pacific.html

[Tessera]

Shuswap: Thank you so much for this! Now I am excited, as I can see hope at the end of my refurbishing/updating tunnel!

And there must have been options, as I know my hull is not airex cored, (fron thru hulls coming out, but she has balsa core in deck.
Interesting how the specs on one for sale say skeg hung rudder...as I said, it looks like someone changed the design at the end, and I figure I may have guessed right, as everyone says it looks like it should have a skeg...sorry about the skeg fixation!

And my interior is more open, ie: needs more beefing up of bulkhead at companionway, etc. but even with her bit of work needing done, I feel good about my buy...thank you again!

[slow shoes]

Originally Posted by Tessera

Shuswap: Thank you so much for this! Now I am excited, as I can see hope at the end of my refurbishing/updating tunnel!

And there must have been options, as I know my hull is not airex cored, (fron thru hulls coming out, but she has balsa core in deck.
Interesting how the specs on one for sale say skeg hung rudder...as I said, it looks like someone changed the design at the end, and I figure I may have guessed right, as everyone says it looks like it should have a skeg...sorry about the skeg fixation!

And my interior is more open, ie: needs more beefing up of bulkhead at companionway, etc. but even with her bit of work needing done, I feel good about my buy...thank you again!

Tessera,

Thats a nice looking boat IMHO. I had an old Pearson that was similar to that, and one suggestion I might make is to add ventilation to the boat. (especially if plan on doing any cruising or vacations on the boat, where there will be periods of time living belowdecks). My Pearson only had one foredeck hatch and no other opening ports, hatches, vents etc, and it was an oven below when it was hot out.

[Tessera]

Yes, you are right, they are nice looking boats, I am actually quite fond of her, and I had not expected to be! I mean for $2,500, I was prepared to be quite put off, but aside from the obvious smelly things...(holding tank BLADDER...say no more) she is actually quite a solid ol' girl...and does have very nice lines!

Thank you all again for helping me out, I have had up and downs almost daily as I thought maybe she was home built, then thought she was cold-molded, then worried about deck core mush from screwed on items (even companionway hatch sliders were screwed!!! into deck!!! Augh)...but other than a few (a lot of few?!) spots of core wetness, she'll be ok...as she's a, generally, well-built 30' that I got for cheap...as I said to the other boaters who have wandered by: "She doesn't really have any leaks except those spots where she does leak now"....I actually said that! I had meant: simple leaks that were going to be fixed like the obvious: chainplates and cockpit lockers. Oh, and these little wooden pluggy things the original owner had just jammed into the deck...seeing that sort of core wetness from those was a bit of a sad moment...but...I will forge ahead, thanks for listening!

[Tessera]

Thanks for the ventilation tip: I am actually in process of removing the ugly unpainted fibreglass hatch! (Um, the "bolts" are screwed into the deck...no nuts?! and only half of them will come out...)

And I was thinking of a dorade vent or two, as the one for sale shows...I too am a huge proponent of fresh air in a boat, for a variety of reasons: combatting mildew and breathing being the main ones! I am lusting after opening ports, but not sure if I will replace the windows yet...but hey, may as well while I have the interior ripped out...wallet be darned!

[Zach]

Are they just threaded right into the glass? Or did the builder encapsulate the back side of some mounting hardware?

That is odd! Does it have a screw type head, or is it a hex? Might try a square shank screwdriver (if its a screw head) and a adjustable wrench. Lots of downward pressure and twist on screwdriver... and swift pull on the adjustable.

[Tessera]

Hi Zach;
Yes, it's very strange. Perhaps they do have an encapsulated nut, but I have not yet cut up into ceiling to see, but there is not an enlarged spot that would indicate that. (I have ALL the rubbery headliner ripped out, so am looking at ugly, rough fibreglass skin.)
And I did get three out, they are the flathead style, slotted. When they came out, they were definitely cut off, so perhaps you are right, they were glassed over just a bit and I will investigat that this weekend.
On the ones that are still stuck, they all turn! So, it makes sense, as you say, there must be nuts, and I just lucked out on the other ones.
I have tried prying up while unscrewing, but nope...does not come out. I used my drill, my cordless screw driver, my big slotted square-shanked screwdriver...nope...
I tried the screw extractors, but after getting the drill to finally make a hole in a spinning bolt, the extractor only grabbed so far, and then the spinning...so, I deduced there must be nuts....like me....
Someone was telling me: "oh, you're gonna have to pry them out and you'll do some deck damage"...well even on a work project boat, I am not going to damage the deck...I look at this as a challenge to do it with as little damage as possible.
My light at the end of the tunnel is a tidy removal with no deck damage and a nice new hatch in the future!

Thanks for all your feedback, it's a big help!
Most guys are reluctant to even offer much-welcomed advice when they see my little female frame pop up out of the boat with goggles and reciprocating saw and no guy around anywhere!

[Tessera]

Thank you for the hint, Zach....the nuts were encapsulated...I am new at this, learning as I go along...got the mast step off too!

Now, if I can only get the grab rails off, looks like nuts at either end, or is there some trick there to I am not yet privy to?!

By the way, Ferenc Mate's book "From a Bare Hull" was supposed to have a Pacific 30 in it...but the two versions I have do NOT have it in there, I am mad at him! Did any of you ever see his review on it?! Was to have been on page 84!!!

[Brent Swain]

I put a skeg on my first boat in New Zealand , a 36 ft cement boat. I ran the leading edge pipe(1 1/2 inch sch 40 pipe) and the trailing edge pipe ( 2 inch sch 40 pipe)thru the hull, the trailing edge pipe up thru the deck and bolted to a bulkhead , and the leading edge pipe up and bolted to the cockpit floor.
When the boat broke up later on a Fijian coral reef, the hull disintegtrated , all but the stern supported by the skeg. A friend showed me a picture taken two years later and the stern was still undamaged , supported by the skeg, still undamaged. It was much stronger than the hull.
Brent

[Tessera]

Brent...I am studying how and where to put the skeg, as I think you are right, the stern and rudder, at least, will then stay intact! Too bad about your boat, tho'.
Oh, I figured out, firstly, that they were "rod" fasteners holding grabrails to each other, and then secondly, how to get "rod" fasteners out without damaging the grab rails too much, other than a few gouges!
One of those up and down days where: the down: a mechanic looked at her engine for about two minutes, and said "as long as you remember what she's worth and do all the work yourself, she'll be ok", and then he proceeded to tell me how to check the valves to find out if they are moving freely and then he ran,...so, I guess I will become a mechanic as long as I don't get stumped...heh heh! (Ok, size 36 coveralls are still way too big!)
And the up was the grab rails, and also learning that her hull paint is "Endura", polished up very nicely. (my arms are killing me...)

[Tessera]

Skeg: would you suggest moving rudder post too? is aft of prop, but could leave and just make new rudder and attach skeg to largish foot or so of mini-skeg-like support for prop...rudder is weeping black stuff...does not sound good, would make a new one anyways.