Paint advice for deck and hull

[Paul M]

Hi all:

I have a Morgan 41' OI that I currently refurbing in SW Florida. I plan to put her on the hard in a month or so for a deck and hull repaint. I've read some forums on how to approach this project and have decided not to use gelcoat or even a 2 part paint. I'm looking to finish this job within 3 weeks of pulling her and would like recommendations on one-part paints to use for deck, hull above water line, and hull below waterline.

I'm considering Interlux micron below water line, Brightside above water line and possibly even on the deck. I've also seen some good products from Pettit and Awlgrip also but have no experience to base my decision on.

I've also read posts where owners sand away all the the current grip on their decks and reapply. My preference would be to paint over the current gripping and apply more if necessary. Is that an option?

Any suggestions you guys have regarding any part of this project would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you,

Paul

[model 10]

Don't use a single part paint unless you want to re-do it again and again. Gel coat would take forever (major labors). It's all about the primer too. Good prep, good primer and good paint.

[Cheechako]

I agree with Guy. The job is mostly labor. Use 2 part paint. Sure, paint over your non skid, not too thick.

[Paul M]

Thanks guys! Would you suggest primer for hull and deck? Any particular brands of paint that good and cost effective?

[model 10]

Just about any epoxy primer works but some are super hard to sand. I like Interprotect 2000 for everything, top and bottom. The top coat is the expensive part. You see lots of Awl Grip paint products, but it's very expensive. If you shop around, look for a polyurethane that uses less catylist, for example a 2:1 is not as good as a 4:1. There are more solids in a 4:1 than a 2:1 product and the solids are what gives you shine and durability.
AwlGrip additives are great so if you don't use the paint you might use the thinners and retarders etc. They have some really slow drying stuff for a roll/brush job.

[Paul M]

Great advice Guy! Thank you so much. So I assume I'll need to sand the primer coat before applying topcoat?

I have found some good deals on Rustoleum top coat. Do you have any experience with this product?

Also, do you happen to know of any good tutorials I can access for doing this job?

[atmartin]

Originally Posted by Paul M

Great advice Guy! Thank you so much. So I assume I'll need to sand the primer coat before applying topcoat?

I have found some good deals on Rustoleum top coat. Do you have any experience with this product?

Also, do you happen to know of any good tutorials I can access for doing this job?

Yes, sand the primer

I'm guessing you mean the Rustoleum Topside? Their enamel "yacht" paint? Most people here are going to advise against using an enamel as it is softer and won't last as long. I'm personally mixed on this. I like the cheapness and ease of application of enamel paints. I also like that they can be compounded into beauty after a repair. With two part paints, you need to repaint to a break point. Although, someone please correct me if I'm wrong, my 2-part knowledge is limited.

I have used a lot of enamels, including the Epifanes, which is probably overpriced for what it is, but it's very good paint if you know how to wield a brush. I've seen the Rustoleum Topside in Hardware stores, but haven't used it. Maybe try it on your dinghy first.

I wouldn't recommend Brightsides, too much $$$ for what it is and doesn't compound. That said, I mostly use Brightsides for work and my own boat because it's ubiquitous.

[Paul M]

This boat is a 41 morgan and will live out its life on a mooring or slip...not that I'll have it more than another 2 or 3 years. Does permanent saltwater impact enamels much quicker?

[atmartin]

Originally Posted by Paul M

This boat is a 41 morgan and will live out its life on a mooring or slip...not that I'll have it more than another 2 or 3 years. Does permanent saltwater impact enamels much quicker?

If you clean and prep properly, an enamel is perfectly fine on topsides. It just scratches easier and fades faster. It should last 2-5 years depending on how you use the boat. If she is a marina queen in a temperate climate the paint could last a decade.

That said, if the boat is in unsettled water, like not flat marina or <5 knot basins and remains in contact with water too much, the paint may bubble. This happens to some people if they don't raise their waterline (bottom paint) before cruising.

The combination of a few thousand pounds of extra equipment and stores depresses the waterline and suddenly the boat is in anchorages and sailing close to 100% of the time so the bottom inch or two of topsides paint is basically wet all the time. This can cause minor bubbling. Not that big of a deal, but just raise your waterline if you think that will be an issue.

[atmartin]

Originally Posted by Paul M

Also, do you happen to know of any good tutorials I can access for doing this job?

http://wiki.vintagemachinery.org/Get...20Painting.pdf

This is a good read. Doesn't hurt to practice on some smaller areas/projects before you tackle your finish coat. Get a sense of how much thinner you need and your brush metering, etc. Never paint in the sun or wind or when there are bugs out or when it's going to dew, use as little thinner as possible, etc.

In practice, you work with the weather you get.

[Paul M]

Thank you very much. I'm a complete novice on doing this so your help is greatly appreciated.

Cheers

[atmartin]

Good luck to you!

[Flyingriki]

"...decided not to use gelcoat..."
Can I ask why? Also, I didnt know gelcoat was a topcoat. Thought it was an inverse layer sprayed into a mold as the outside finish and the inside, or surface, was rough or otherwise prepped for directly adhering layers of structure, not a slick, beautiful finish?
Am looking at visiting a boat, far away, that has new gelcoat on the hull and wonder about it now....

[atmartin]

Originally Posted by Flyingriki

"...decided not to use gelcoat..."
Can I ask why? Also, I didnt know gelcoat was a topcoat. Thought it was an inverse layer sprayed into a mold as the outside finish and the inside, or surface, was rough or otherwise prepped for directly adhering layers of structure, not a slick, beautiful finish?
Am looking at visiting a boat, far away, that has new gelcoat on the hull and wonder about it now....

Gelcoat is polyester resin with pigment, more or less. It's the default topcoat on most manufactured boats. It's often applied to the inside of a smooth female mold before the laminate layup, leaving a smooth, shiny surface finish for the topsides.

You can also apply gelcoat without a mold, then longboard or otherwise fair it. Compound and polish for a final finish.

[double u]

is the original gelcoat really beyond salvage? wetsanding with 1000paper followed by buffing & a good polish will put another 2 or 3 years of life into it. nothing, absolutely nothing will ever be as tough & longlasting than the original gelcoat, least of all a one-component paint, particularly Brightside, an interior finish.