Ropes around the propeller winding the engine round (with the "stop" button on)

[metallon]

Dear Sailing Fans,

I have just finished reading Tom Cunliffe book the complete Yachtmaster and did not really understand the following:

Page 276 Ropes around the propeller
If you know the rope went on with the propeller driving ahead. Reverse that direction of revolution while maintaining a firm pull on the line, and you have at least a chance of winding it back off again.
This is best achieved by decompressing the engine, engaging astern propulsion and then winding the engine round (with the "stop" button on) using
the starter motor,...

Why does the stop button have to be on?

[Pete7]

He is suggesting turning the engine by hand (or on the starter but not firing) rather than run it. Starting the engine and running it could make things a lot worse.

The one rope I got around the prop stalled the engine and nothing could be done. Had to lift the boat and cut the rope off in small pieces. I did have a rope cutter fitted but at tickover the rope stalled the engine. I suspect if we had been moving at speed the rope cutter would have worked.

[SSgtPitt]

You would be using the engine starter to turn the engine, transmission and prop which is much slower and easier to control.
If the engine started it wouldn’t be slow anymore and would most likely wrap the line around the prop in the other direction before you could stop it.

[TreblePlink]

Originally Posted by metallon

Dear Sailing Fans,

I have just finished reading Tom Cunliffe book the complete Yachtmaster and did not really understand the following:

Page 276 Ropes around the propeller
If you know the rope went on with the propeller driving ahead. Reverse that direction of revolution while maintaining a firm pull on the line, and you have at least a chance of winding it back off again.
This is best achieved by decompressing the engine, engaging astern propulsion and then winding the engine round (with the "stop" button on) using
the starter motor,...

Why does the stop button have to be on?

Because you don't want the engine to start. You are using just the starter motor.

[a64pilot]

Do this at your own peril.
I’d Dive and cut the line, maybe taking a long time, but so have the Dive equipment, or call for a tow if possible.
I think your odds of increasing the damage are greater than successfully getting the line off

[Sailmonkey]

Originally Posted by SSgtPitt

You would be using the engine starter to turn the engine, transmission and prop which is much slower and easier to control.

If the engine started it wouldn’t be slow anymore and would most likely wrap the line around the prop in the other direction before you could stop it.

To elaborate, if you hold the stop button or pull the stop cable, etc.....while engaging g the starter the prop will turn slowly in the opposite direction. To which it originally ate the line.

If you’ve got a fancy engine like a new yammer or an old westerbeke that is stopped by turning off the key you’ll need to be more creative.

[charliehows]

I ran over a mooring rope a few years ago – it didnt stall the engine because the clutch was already slipping but I had to spend an unpleasant hour in the water unwinding the rope off the prop, cutting up my hands and bleeding into the water in a well documented white pointer nursery area. My prop spins free in neutral so I just cut the engine and put it out of gear.

[TrentePieds]

Metallon

You are new here, I think. Welcome!

What the "stop button" actually does is stop the flow of fuel to the engine. Therefore it cannot start when you crank it over. If it were to start while you are "doing a Cunliffe", you might well do both yourself and the boat an injury..

Depending on where you are, what the weather is like, how much time you have at your disposal and a number of other situational factors, you might go over the side with a knife in your teeth and just do what needs to be done - cut off the rope.

Sometimes the given situation won't permit you to go overboard in safety. Then the only remedy is a tow to port where you can put the boat "on the hard" (on dry land) and do the job there. Sometimes a professional diver could be available to do the job.

Whispering: Always take what Cunliffe sez with a grain of salt, and perhaps check it against the opinion of other experienced people.

TP

[thruska]

While maintaining a firm hold on the line.....

FWIW... that statement is inviting physical disaster. Holding a line whilst turning a starter engine is just foolish. One easy slip up of switch or cable and just think of the morbid possibilities!!!
Taking the line and attaching to a winch would be wiser. If line is short ,splice another for length. Physics should find the way it will unwind with neutral gears. If not you will dive or pay the piper....
Or whatever ��

[Cadence]

Using the starter to turn the prop in reverse while maintaining tension on the line is worth a try. Next go overboard with a good knife. A serrated bread knife works well. It is more scallops than serrations.

[boeing1]

never tried it myself but I know people that have tried it and claims it works, I would think it would depend on how fast the engine was running when you raped the rope around the prop

[Suijin]

I think it's worth a shot as a tactic if you're just "tapping" the start button as opposed to really holding it down. With tension on the rope of it budges during that first tap then you have some indication that something is going well and can continue to see if the rope comes free, but as pointed out its a small step to having it make matters worse. But it's viable if done carefully and intelligently.

[Captain Scott]

Ran over a fish/lobster trap. The float hit the hull with three "thunks" before I got to neutral (much quicker than stopping the motor). No line to grab, in cold water. no mask or change of cloths. Pulled the fuel shut off, put it in reverse, cranked it, "Thunk" 3x and stopped. It floated away. Worked 1x. Always dive if you can. Sometimes it wraps weird...

[teppokurki]

Originally Posted by a64pilot

Do this at your own peril.
I’d Dive and cut the line, maybe taking a long time, but so have the Dive equipment, or call for a tow if possible.
I think your odds of increasing the damage are greater than successfully getting the line off

Diving is not necessarily an option: darkness and cold make it impossible without the proper gear.

I’ve successfully untangled one fouled sheet in the middle of the night by applying very short reverse kicks with engine running idle and keeping tension on the line.

Could have been just luck - hope I never need to repeat that.

[SVTwilight]

Originally Posted by a64pilot

Do this at your own peril.
I’d Dive and cut the line, maybe taking a long time, but so have the Dive equipment, or call for a tow if possible.
I think your odds of increasing the damage are greater than successfully getting the line off

Agreed in this. As as diver, people have paid me dozens of times to remove lines from the prop and shaft on boats up to 35m.

The Cunliffe method holds Little chance of success and here is why:

1) the line almost never neatly spools up on the shaft. Often the lines that are caught are derelict and knotted or tangled already and in gettimg caught up on the shaft and prop this is intensified.

2) it will definitely not work when the line is caught around a prop of any size.

3) floating trawler nets always tangle badly and must be cut away.

4) the line typically tightens so much under the torque of the shaft that it is almost as secure as knotting it. In the case of floating poly line it will actually ”melt” into a massive ball. It once tool me two hours to remove one of these plastic globs from a large tour boat using a sharp serrated knife and a hacksaw.

5) always keep a small sharp serrated knife and a hacksaw handy as well as thick rubber gloves to keep your knuckles from being bloodied (yeah I learned the hard way). You can do this with breath hold of you do not have scuba gear, it just takes longer. ( you DO already have a mask on board right?) If you have to do this while out at sea, be very careful of the pitching boat that will crack you in the head. I wear a whitewater helmet that I have on hand anyway for rough wx and ascending the mast.

6) practice this before you need to actually to it. I do this by changing my shaft zincs using breath hold in calm water. Then it is not nearly as stressful when you have to jump in and cut the line away while drifting toward the rocks in a tight harbor.