Saildrive VS Direct Shaft

[Sailorbob8599]

Originally Posted by capt jgw

Even better is to put a hose clamp on the shaft just forward of the stuffing box. If it comes uncoupled, the clamp won't let it slide out of the boat or jam the rudder. And you can put it back together without having to haul out.

I don't think that would be a problem for me. I have a Lasdrop seal on my shaft drive that I think would prevent that from happening.
Even the shaft did slide backward, I don't believe it would jamb my rudder; The prop would just butt up against it as it is a transom hung rudder, but I don't know for certain. I suppose anything is possible, I had not considered that possibility.
As everything is still 'new' I don't think I'm going to start worrying about it right now but I will keep it in mind and see if a clamp on the shaft would be a benefit to me.

[Bulawayo]

I've only ever had two issues:
1) finding a large enough flat blade screwdriver to undo the drain plug. I found a socket screw driver the perfect answer.
2) When diving below the boat to clean off growth I noticed a lower seal had a tear in it (as there are two it wasnt a problem) which required beaching and using a spare we keep on board. The seals were around 12 years old at that stage.

Originally Posted by gjorgensen

My boat just turned 15 years old and has a Volvo MD2030 with a Volvo saildrive. Knock on wood, but I've never had a single problem with it. The fluid still looks new between haul outs (mine requires a haul out to change the fluid, which is not required on new ones). I've never had any corrosion at all. Use the right bottom paint and keep up with the zincs and it should be fine. I did have the through-hull seal replaced when the boat was 10 or 11 years old, but after we got the old one out decided it could have gone many more years. If you're already hauled for a bottom job changing it's cheap insurance though.

[Scaramanga F25]

As much as I like the idea of Saildrives, I have one in fresh water, it was a deal breaker for me because at the time I would leave my other boat in Ft Lauderdale for 5 months at a time.
The stray electricity there would destroy a shaft zinc in 2 months even with a 10 lb Fish ( zinc ) over the side. You don't know until it's too late.
Easier today as you can test for stray current easily.

[Cadence]

Originally Posted by gjorgensen

My boat just turned 15 years old and has a Volvo MD2030 with a Volvo saildrive. Knock on wood, but I've never had a single problem with it. The fluid still looks new between haul outs (mine requires a haul out to change the fluid, which is not required on new ones). I've never had any corrosion at all. Use the right bottom paint and keep up with the zincs and it should be fine. I did have the through-hull seal replaced when the boat was 10 or 11 years old, but after we got the old one out decided it could have gone many more years. If you're already hauled for a bottom job changing it's cheap insurance though.

It is great to hear positive from someone that actually has experience rather than the know it alls.

[SailRedemption]

I have a ZF MIV 150 v drive on Redemption and I don't find it that noisy or vibration compared to a regular zf/straight shaft gear I have heard on other boats. Only thing that surprises me is the clunk when going into gear. The dealer by me said that's normal. Freaked me out though. We have two v drives on our caterpillars on our shrimp boat that have years of service too.

Also it allows me great access to the front (aft of the boat) of the engine which is nice. They take up less room in a boat as well.

I have a Tide Marine shaft seal under mine with a spare seal on the shaft ready to go. I didn't want any drips regardless of how easy or bad I could get to it. Only water I get in my bilge is rain water from the mast(and right now leaks /: )
They do have their pros and cons for sure, but I think with modern shaft seals these days, V-drives make quite the contender.

See more @ redemptiverepair.com

[Jim Cate]

Another way to prevent loss of a drive shaft if the coupling fails is to keep a spare shaft anode clamped on the shaft. This means that you can't loose the shaft and you always have a spare anode where you can lay your hands on it!

Jim

[Snowpetrel]

My old man and brother had a shaft break off just inside the stuffing box on a delivery. It was pretty awkward access, but they eventually got it plugged. Apparently it was a very clean break. Just another thing to watch out for.

Sent from my HTC_0PCV2 using Cruisers Sailing Forum mobile app

[maxingout]

I carried a huge glob of toilet sealing wax just for the purpose of stuffing in the shaft hole if the shaft ever disappeared. The wax is what is used to create the seal around the base of a toilet in a house.

I never had to use it, but it was there if needed in an emergency.

[SailRedemption]

Originally Posted by Snowpetrel

My old man and brother had a shaft break off just inside the stuffing box on a delivery. It was pretty awkward access, but they eventually got it plugged. Apparently it was a very clean break. Just another thing to watch out for.

Sent from my HTC_0PCV2 using Cruisers Sailing Forum mobile app

Sounds like the packing gland was too tight, not getting enough water. Shaft got hot and crystallized, then snapped like a peppermint stick.

Also can happen when you get line or something around the wheel and shaft and you run like that for a while. We have seen boats that would loose wheels from such thing. Usually pops of in reverse and/or when the torque is put on when going into gear.

See more @ redemptiverepair.com

[Snowpetrel]

Just talked to the old man about it. Apparently it actually failed about 1 cm inside the stuffing box. No load, motorsailing in light airs. It was an older 1 inch shaft, and it might have been rubbing on a plastic waterlift box. I'll try o find out more from my brother about it, he was the one upside down trying to block the hole. Apparently very awkward access.

Sent from my HTC_0PCV2 using Cruisers Sailing Forum mobile app

[Cheechako]

Originally Posted by Jim Cate

Another way to prevent loss of a drive shaft if the coupling fails is to keep a spare shaft anode clamped on the shaft. This means that you can't loose the shaft and you always have a spare anode where you can lay your hands on it!

Jim

yep, that's what I always do

[PDScott]

IMHO I believe the move to saildrives is economically driven by the boat manufacturers. Just drop in the diesel with the drive attached and ready to go versus hours of alignment with dial gauges to assure a vibration free motor.