Steel Boats and Welding

[ninethlife]

Hi, well for one thing, I wish I had crafted a better rudder system such as yours. Nice boat. Actually I built the boat for a fellow after starting a company called Anacortes Yachts of Steel. I had been a boat builder for years mostly finishing out fiberglass hulls for fishing boat companies. I knew how to weld so what the heck. The owner finished it out and rigged it. I was amazed to find it for sale last year looking so good. I bought plans from Roberts for a 53' (which I still have. $50 anyone? ) but never got to build it.

[S/V Alchemy]

Yes, but did you get the weight within spec? Heh.

[SaltyMonkey]

S/V Alchemy - AWESOME boat! I love it! Almost perfect!!

[S/V Alchemy]

I hope so, and thanks. It's shaping up to be our home for five years or so, so "almost perfect" is a good place to start.

[SaltyMonkey]

more pics if you ever get the chance. we need to keep up on this as news unfolds thanks!

[S/V Alchemy]

See my blog at The World Encompassed for four years or so of pictures and grindingly slow progress.

By which I mean I burn out grinders altering our boat for passagemaking.

[Matt sachs]

I need opinions. I have needle scaled, sand blasted and sprayed phosphoric acid inside the keel tanks in the boat I'm refitting. I really dont want to ever have to do that again. The plan is to apply several coats of west system epoxy inside. I dont know exactly what these tanks will be used for at this point. Any thoughts about diesel and epoxy or drinking water that comes in contact with epoxy?

[hpeer]

I recently got yelled at for just this.

First I would not use the West System as the base coat. You went to all that work now get something that is designed for the job.

If you are going to use them for water storage you need something that is certified for that use. Ameron 133 should work.

I sanded the interior of our tanks. The previous epoxy was about 25 years old and was blistering. 2 coats of Ameron zinc 2 part, 2 coats of Ameron 2 part primer, 2 parts of Ameron 133. The Ameron rep told me I was stupid for using the zinc in water tanks because of the solvents. The 133 is all solids. But it has been in there a year and we have had no smell or bad taste.

My advice is worth what you pay for. Call an Ameron rep. and see what they say. The 133 is designed to go on over bare steel and is certified for potable water.

[Matt sachs]

I'll call tomorrow. Thanks for the tip.

[Yachts66]

Matt Sachs said,

The plan is to apply several coats of west system epoxy inside.

I'm curious Matt, why would you apply a product specifically designed for wood boats on a steel boat? Have I missed something along the way? Please do enlighten me!

Thanks,

Thomas

[GordMay]

Originally Posted by hpeer

... First I would not use the West System as the base coat. You went to all that work now get something that is designed for the job ...

See
Building tanks with WEST SYSTEM® epoxy
Wood/epoxy composite tank guidelines
➥ http://www.epoxyworks.com/18/index18.html

“... We have adopted the broad policy of not recommending epoxy for drinking water tanks because of regulatory and safety issues. The potential problems outweigh the benefits. To date, none of Gougeon Brothers' epoxies meet FDA regulations or any other drinking water certified approval ...”

[osirissail]

Here are a couple of links to coatings you might consider for the tank. First if you are going to use the tank as a potable water storage tank - this might work as it is used to coat brewery (beer) making tanks - FDA rated epoxy paint and coatings product. For use on potable water tanks,brewing tanks, etc.

If the tank is going to be used to store diesel fuel then this might be considered as it is used to coat metal aircraft fuel tanks - Fuel Tank Sealants from Aircraft Spruce

[Yachts66]

The Ameron 133 mentioned in the earlier post is certified for potable water. Personally, I like concrete, it gives the best taste I think, but it's a chore to do. Seems to me the Ameron products are vastly less expensive than the ones sited above and have been designed for specific applications, potable water, diesel fuel, etc. Not sure about other parts of the world, but in my neck of the woods, they are the standard used by almost all the commercial fishing fleet and oil industry. They don't have fancy ads in sailing magazines, or pretty pictures on the cans, but it's what inside the can that counts the most! Their products have yet to let me down.

Regards,

Thomas

[S/V Alchemy]

Ameron is in the top three according to every steel boat owner I've met (admittedly here on Lake Ontario, that's about half a dozen...).

They are used commercially and industrially in situations where fastidious "touch-up" is not an option, such as North Atlantic buoys, cargo ships, heavy machinery in the tar sands, Arctic snow removers, etc. Says something that Interlux/Awlgrip can't, really. Nothing wrong with them, of course, but they are about pretty more than durable, I think.

[Matt sachs]

Originally Posted by Yachts66

Matt Sachs said,

I'm curious Matt, why would you apply a product specifically designed for wood boats on a steel boat? Have I missed something along the way? Please do enlighten me!

Thanks,

Thomas

I think I am the one that needs enlightened on this topic. I was hoping that a crusty old salt would give up a secret or two and tell me the best way to coat the inside of a steel water tank. I think Amercoat133 is the best way.

Having said that, I spoke to Tim (I think that is his name, its been several months) at West. He told me that on old steel, after its properly cleaned and washed with phospho, you can apply west epoxy with a brush then key it in with a hand held wire brush, which I did on the inside forward sections below the water line last fall then I painted over that. I can't say how well its working because of all the saw dust and lumber stacked in there. I hope it works as well as indicated... time will tell.