storm covering with securing arrangements

[PaulZeeders]

Hi
We have a steel yacht with a steel top that we are going to get repainted later this year. There is no provision to attach storm covers for the windows and hatches. Are there options and solutions for fitting these covers?

Many thanks Paul

[psk125]

With a steel boat it would be easy to weld slots or tabs for storm covers to slip into and then get secured in place.

[MicHughV]

welding means weld splatter and re-paint.

Try to drill and tap some holes for short bolts around the perimeter, so you can attach a cover is my suggestion as a prior steely owner. When done with your project, some short stainless steel bolts, a dab of 3M 5200 will seal the hole up for future use. A 1/4" hole or even 3/16" hole would be plenty...

I have done something similar, I tape a piece of paper under the drilling location to catch the small metal pieces to result as part of the drilling.

[tkeithlu]

Amplifying MicHughV's answer.

You can minimize spatter by spraying first, and if you are going to paint anyway, it may be the most convenient way. It's certainly the way I attach things like tie down rings and hinges to my steel boat. Or, you can drill and tap, as he suggests, but only a small hole, because you won't get many threads in a 6 mm or so steel superstructure. You could drill and then use stainless steel sheet metal screws, particularly if you squeeze a little 3M 5200 in there with them. What you can't do is any sort of gluing. You would be attaching steel to paint, and it just won't hold when you stretch a canvas cover out to the attachment points.

[Manateeman]

You can make some small blocks..say 1” square by 1/4” thick drilled and tapped for 1/4” bolts. You can TIG spot weld or use a bronze rod which is really brazing.
There are a number of ways to keep the spatter and heat down. We use sidewalk bolts which have a nice big head and are available in 316 stainless.
Happy trails to you.
The manatee crew

[MicHughV]

on my steely....I drilled and inserted these stud clips..."Lift the dot studs"...I believe they are called...they come in stainless steel and with a treaded post..the post is not very long..maybe 3/8" of an inch. I use them to attach screens to my portholes......works like a charm...the screen has the other side of the clip pressed in....they usually come in pairs...ie, the stud and the clip...you can use these for any reason you want....protective screen today..bug screen tomorrow.....they come in many sizes....most sailmakers and canvas shops will carry them as will most marine chandeliers..

[wrwakefield]

I suspect judicious use of rare earth magnets built into the cover designs would work perfectly without requiring any modifications to the boat itself.

I wish it was as easy on my FRP boat... We installed bolt rope tracks around each hatch perimeter to secure covers.

Cheers! Bill

PS: Upon rereading I see I missed you were talking storm [clear lexan?] covers on the windows, where of course rare earth magnets won't be useful... I mislead myself into thinking you were talking fabric sun covers for hatches... Back to tracks or drilled and tapped holes for mechanical fasteners...

[PaulZeeders]

Hi
Thank you for the responces, I am suspect of welding as I can not get behind the steelwork and also suspect that foam has been glued against the inside of the steelwork. This will become a fire hazard should we try welding the outside of the yacht. What about using blind rivnuts with sealant maybe 6mm (1/4) size and putting a plastic screw in the thread to keep it clean until I need to use it?

Many thanks Paul

[Manateeman]

We don’t want to burn down your boat but we have TIG welded aluminum which had blown in foam on the inside with just local damage. Aluminum conducts the heat differently but we understand your concern.
You might want to ask the guys at Plexus.
It’s expensive stuff but works well.
The manatee crew

[JPA Cate]

Originally Posted by tkeithlu

Amplifying MicHughV's answer.

You can minimize spatter by spraying first, and if you are going to paint anyway, it may be the most convenient way. It's certainly the way I attach things like tie down rings and hinges to my steel boat. Or, you can drill and tap, as he suggests, but only a small hole, because you won't get many threads in a 6 mm or so steel superstructure. You could drill and then use stainless steel sheet metal screws, particularly if you squeeze a little 3M 5200 in there with them. What you can't do is any sort of gluing. You would be attaching steel to paint, and it just won't hold when you stretch a canvas cover out to the attachment points.

Kind of piggybacking on this idea, if you use threaded rod into the holes, and leave it standing proud, then you can just make holes in the cover and slide on and bolt the cover down. Might want to make a trim strip to also fit, so that you wouldn't have the projections standing proud.

Ann

[PaulZeeders]

Hi Ann
I like your idea as we will not be needing to remove the stainless steel screw from a mild steel thread. We will be able to permanently seal this thread as we do not need to remove it (hopefully)

Regards Paul

[noelex 77]

The provision for easy emergency covering a broken large openings such as portholes or windows is sensible for a long distance cruising boat.

An additional advantage is the fastening points can be used to fit shade or insulation covers when no emergency protection is required. These attachment points can be invaluable in hot or cold climates.

The attachment points can be easily incorporated especially in a metal sailing boat, but sadly builders often miss the opportunity to incorporate the these useful options.

[NSboatman]

Another steely owner here. Welding is always the strongest and most leak proof approach; but Blind rivet nuts are an excellent approach if welding is being avoided. I’ve done both.

If you do the blind rivet, then take the time to carefully clean, solvent wash and then epoxy paint the bare edges of the hole you’ve drilled for the rivet. Give it time to dry; then pull the rivet nut with a judicious amount of 3M4000 or some other UV stabilized sealant. Leave a small fillet of sealant around the fitting.

When painting over this, tape up to the edge of the fitting and you’ll have a rock solid and clean installation.

I’ve done this with custom made 3/4” dia sockets all along the edge of my cabin top. Gives me 10 rock-solid tie-down points each side where I can screw in load-rated eyebolts (McMaster Carr) for tie downs or lashing/barber-hauler spots. Each one is good for over 4500 lbs direct pull- probably close to the rating on my chainplates... Try that on a Fiberglass cabin top! [emoji12].

You only screw in the eyebolts when you need them, and I 3D printed plastic thread in plugs for the empty sockets to keep them from filling up with junk. With the plugs in you’ve got a nice smooth finish but easy, configurable access whenever needed.

Works so well I got rid of the staysail track and it’s 48 bolts, and welded up the holes in the cabin top. No damn leaks!!

Best of luck-

[PaulZeeders]

Hi NS. Boatman
Thank for this information and great detail , much appreciated
Regards Paul