Talk to me about the C&C Landfall 38

[boatpoker]

Originally Posted by fworonkowicz

My C& C 38 Landfall 1981.
steering wheel turn hard.. I inspected and. grease bearings .
I am looking for some sketches or drawings of the rudder system assy. did you experienced. simmilar conditions?

These guys are ex C&C employees who have drawings for 90% of C&C boats plus lots of new/old stock parts.

South Shore Yachts

[dreuge]

Originally Posted by fworonkowicz

My C& C 38 Landfall 1981.
steering wheel turn hard.. I inspected and. grease bearings .
I am looking for some sketches or drawings of the rudder system assy. did you experienced. simmilar conditions?

I had an issue with my 1981 Landfall 38 steering. I dropped the rudder, cleaned out the old hard grease, and started using SuperLube to grease the rudder.

I have some posting about it on my blog: S/V Johanna Rose

Here is link to some rudder work: S/V Johanna Rose: Rudder, Radial Drive, and Steering Cable Repairs

[Jocelyn Mc.]

Hello!!

I am looking for a way to replace my engine. From what I hear, you need to dissemble the old one to actually remove it, and potentially even disassemble the new one to get it in there. Our mechanic wants to cut a hole in the deck to lift it straight out and I think this is insane. Looking for advice or tips on how to get it out through the cabin entrance (under the stairs route) - how to pull that sucker forward to then lift it.

Thank you!

[boatpoker]

I believe your mechanic has the right idea.

[Cheechako]

Originally Posted by Jocelyn Mc.

Hello!!

I am looking for a way to replace my engine. From what I hear, you need to dissemble the old one to actually remove it, and potentially even disassemble the new one to get it in there. Our mechanic wants to cut a hole in the deck to lift it straight out and I think this is insane. Looking for advice or tips on how to get it out through the cabin entrance (under the stairs route) - how to pull that sucker forward to then lift it.

Thank you!

I know people who have done that on other boats. I suppose it is possible. I would not want to disassemble a new engine either. You get enough guys, plywood and 4x4's to slide the engine in place after craning it into the cabin.
The other option is to cut that hole and buy a good hatch to install there. I did that on a small boat years ago and it was very nice for engine access. I used a commercial Freeman aluminum hatch in the floor of the cockpit.
It's the aft cockpit 38 right? Not sure I understand what's so abnormal about it?

[Jocelyn Mc.]

Hey thanks, I was thinking a hatch would be better than refiberglassing over the hole. The motor is far back and the hole under the hatch stairs is small to get it out. They say it can be done just a pain in the ass and may have to dissemble the new motor to make it fit.

[GordMay]

Greetings and welcome aboard the CF, Jocelyn.

[Cheechako]

Originally Posted by Jocelyn Mc.

Hey thanks, I was thinking a hatch would be better than refiberglassing over the hole. The motor is far back and the hole under the hatch stairs is small to get it out. They say it can be done just a pain in the ass and may have to dissemble the new motor to make it fit.

Like this?:

[lifeofreilly57]

Actually having done it in a C&C 38 (not landfall) I would recommend against cutting it up.
Basically if you remove the exhaust and intake manifold and the alternator the motor will slide out into the salon floor.
If a mechanic suggested cutting out the cockpit sole I'd smack them upside the head.

[LauraleeG]

I have one. Totally love her. She sails really well, highly responsive but not too tender. Lots of storage. That extra berth at back is wonderful and practical . Very roomy lay out, nice and airy and plenty of light. She holds a course well too, but sometimes I think she is a bit underpowered. The holding tank is also too small for extended passages. Sturdy. Capable. Enough for us for now.

[Jim Cate]

Originally Posted by lifeofreilly57

Actually having done it in a C&C 38 (not landfall) I would recommend against cutting it up.
Basically if you remove the exhaust and intake manifold and the alternator the motor will slide out into the salon floor.
If a mechanic suggested cutting out the cockpit sole I'd smack them upside the head.

If removing those items is sufficient, then this is not a big deal going either way... surely easier and better than dismembering your boat. Cutting engine-sized holes in the cockpit sole will have structural issues... perhaps not serious, but niggling away at your subconscious during long night watches.

Removing manifolds is pretty straightforward and without after effects on the engine.

Jim

[lifeofreilly57]

Originally Posted by Jim Cate

If removing those items is sufficient, then this is not a big deal going either way... surely easier and better than dismembering your boat. Cutting engine-sized holes in the cockpit sole will have structural issues... perhaps not serious, but niggling away at your subconscious during long night watches.

Removing manifolds is pretty straightforward and without after effects on the engine.

Jim

Basically once the electrical connections, fuel lines, water lines and transmission are disconnected, which you have to disconnect anyway, it's not hard put a 2x12 under the motor and slide it out into the salon. At that point it can be lifted through the hatchway.
If your putting back the same make and size motor it's a good idea to measure the height of the motor mounts to get it close when reinstalling. It will save time aligning it.
If your going for a different motor then you'll be doing a full alignment anyway.
I've done this on both aft cockpit and center cockpit boats, it's not a big deal to do and leaves your boat in one piece. I used a cheap $40 chainfall strapped to the mast to slide the motor out and to control the weight when reinstalling.
If your removing the motor it's also a good time to check the fuel tank. Mine was mounted behind the engine, when I inspected it I found some corrosion on the underside of the tank so I replaced it. It would have been a bugger to do all that and then have the tank leak a year later.
One more thing about C&C's of that era, the bolts that hold the toggles on the mast that secure the upper mounts for the standing rigging are aluminum bolts threaded on each end and pass through the mast. If at some time in it's past history an owner or rigger ran a wire to rope halyard incorrectly through the mast there's a good chance those bolts are sawed halfway through.
I checked mine after seeing this on a boat that had a rig failure, another friend of mine found this same issue in his mast. When I pulled my boat that season I found the same issue on mine. I had a new one made by a local machine shop. It's well worth checking before heading off.