Anyone ever replaced a spun hub on a Yamaha 9.9 High Thrust 4 Stroke?

[Franziska]

Hi,

we cought a plastic bag and suffered a spun hub on one of our 2014 Yamaha 9.9 High Thrust outboards.
McGivered a temporary repair with two axial set screws.

Now I ordered a new prop, but cant believe a plastic bag can create damage making a new prop necessary.

So, I looked for replacement hubs and found this:
https://vi.aliexpress.com/item/10050...yAdapt=glo2vnm

Anyone ever sucessfully replaced the hub on the standart prop of the 9.9 high thrust?
I have an issue getting that hub out when I tried it on the McGivered prop.

[jeanathon]

Are you sure it's not just the sheer pin that was sheered. They are normally in small outboards to protect the motor from things like this.

[Franziska]

Unfortunately there are no shear pins on the newer 9.9 4 strokes anymore...

[Pete7]

Used to spin props on a diesel engined rib with 200hp. I would always take the prop to a propeller agent and get him to do it. You might succeed with a vice, but likely need a large press.

The problem is a mix of age, heat, sunshine and saltwater eventually destroys the bond between the rubber bit and the aluminium prop.

Pete

[Franziska]

Thanks everyone.
Will see than if there is someone who can fix this locally. We're in Djerba Tunisia, so it will be a little adventure to find someone 🙂, but I guess the local fishermen don't buy new props frequently.

[Richard Harper]

This happened several times with my 9.9s. I took it to the local prop shop and they put in a new hub in a few days. I also bought a spare so I was ready the next time.

[thinwater]

I think anyone with an arbor press can do it. There are McGuiver methods using a threaded rod, washers, and nuts.


I've spun several 9.9 hubs. I still have a few spares on the shelf, but have since sold the boat.

[Franziska]

Originally Posted by thinwater

I think anyone with an arbor press can do it. There are McGuiver methods using a threaded rod, washers, and nuts.


I've spun several 9.9 hubs. I still have a few spares on the shelf, but have since sold the boat.

Thanks.


Are these https://vi.aliexpress.com/item/1005002495973321.html?gatewayAdapt=glo2vnm really just pressed in? Or are they additionally glued?



Your McGuiver method sounds very much like us.
Our initial fix was the one attached on the image.

[purvisgs]

Unfortunately most (if not nearly all) have gone to "rubber" hubs as opposed to the shear pin style. It seems they can probably market it as a benefit-- "you may still be able to limp home at low speed with a spun hub" and as a side hustle they probably sell more props that way..

The inner surface has to be cleaned very well (wire brush etc), I'd be a little concerned if the fix (screws) might have mangled it too much? maybe try g-flex epoxy if that was the case/ damaged rough surfaces.

I've watched them press in a new hub at a prop shop and they do not use any adhesive to my knowledge. they sprayed something, maybe a vulcanizing solvent. that may have made the "rubber" a little more malleable (just guessing), and used a thin plastic cone (could be made by cutting a cone cut out of a yogurt tub etc, as I've used on installing automotive seals etc in the past).


If you do try the threaded rod and large washers etc approach- make sure it goes in perfectly straight to start- and use something like a socket of slightly less diameter than the hole to push as evenly as possible, that's the most important part


I'd try it if you had access to a press or a very large/heavy vice only. if the specialty prop shops are too expensive, buy the hub first then try walking in to a few regular machine shops with $20 or $40 in your pocket?

[Franziska]

Originally Posted by purvisgs

Unfortunately most (if not nearly all) have gone to "rubber" hubs as opposed to the shear pin style. It seems they can probably market it as a benefit-- "you may still be able to limp home at low speed with a spun hub" and as a side hustle they probably sell more props that way..

The inner surface has to be cleaned very well (wire brush etc), I'd be a little concerned if the fix (screws) might have mangled it too much? maybe try g-flex epoxy if that was the case/ damaged rough surfaces.

I've watched them press in a new hub at a prop shop and they do not use any adhesive to my knowledge. they sprayed something, maybe a vulcanizing solvent. that may have made the "rubber" a little more malleable (just guessing), and used a thin plastic cone (could be made by cutting a cone cut out of a yogurt tub etc, as I've used on installing automotive seals etc in the past).


If you do try the threaded rod and large washers etc approach- make sure it goes in perfectly straight to start- and use something like a socket of slightly less diameter than the hole to push as evenly as possible, that's the most important part


I'd try it if you had access to a press or a very large/heavy vice only. if the specialty prop shops are too expensive, buy the hub first then try walking in to a few regular machine shops with $20 or $40 in your pocket?

Thanks. Great info. I ordered two new hubs & a new prop. That way I can hopefully fix the old prop and keep it as spare.

[rslifkin]

Originally Posted by Franziska

Thanks. Great info. I ordered two new hubs & a new prop. That way I can hopefully fix the old prop and keep it as spare.

That sounds like a good plan. Having a spare prop for an outboard is always a good idea, particularly for props that use a rubber hub. The sheared hub is annoying, but it's designed to soften the impact of hitting something so you don't damage anything more expensive in the gearcase.

[Franziska]

Originally Posted by rslifkin

That sounds like a good plan. Having a spare prop for an outboard is always a good idea, particularly for props that use a rubber hub. The sheared hub is annoying, but it's designed to soften the impact of hitting something so you don't damage anything more expensive in the gearcase.

Absolutely, but I feel the shear pin was the much better concept. Costs few cents, super easy to change and lightweight.

Oh well.

Still, I agree to have a spare prop is great, especially as the two 9.9 are our main engine.

[Jammer]

Originally Posted by Franziska

Absolutely, but I feel the shear pin was the much better concept. Costs few cents, super easy to change and lightweight.

A rubber hub will ride through many hits without damage that would have sheared a pin on a pin-drive hub.



Many times, shear pins end up being replaced with more robust material, either intentionally or because the correct pin is not available when repairs are needed, leading to more serious damage. Shear pins do suffer cumulative wear and will eventually fail for no real reason in many applications. I've replaced them over the years not only in props, but in snowblowers and other equipment.

[Cheechako]

Rubber hub on my Yam 15 spun out a couple of times surprisingly. Fortunately I picked up a new Yam Prop on Ebay for like $25. It was a quite different pitch but frankly, I couldn't tell the difference. The Yam 15 on a heavy 10 ft RIB jumped right up on plane anyway. Maybe it wouldn't have with more than two people and gear though.
Basically I'm just saying a bargain different pitch can work fine for most things.

[Franziska]

Originally Posted by Cheechako

Rubber hub on my Yam 15 spun out a couple of times surprisingly. Fortunately I picked up a new Yam Prop on Ebay for like $25. It was a quite different pitch but frankly, I couldn't tell the difference. The Yam 15 on a heavy 10 ft RIB jumped right up on plane anyway. Maybe it wouldn't have with more than two people and gear though.
Basically I'm just saying a bargain different pitch can work fine for most things.

This hold true for the typical RIB with a 10Hp outboard.
In case of our 4.5tons boat pushed by two 9.9Hp high thrust outboards these standard props unfortunately won't do it, as others have mentioned rightly above.



Btw. Reducing pitch on our dinghy prop made a huge difference. Before it did not get on a plane.