Is a dry survey okay or should I spend the extra for the wet

[HeinSdL]

I'm not sure if the OP is getting any wiser.... it looks too close to call, 50/50! Would be keen to hear what eventually happens, my vote remains on 'don't bother' though would be willing to reconsider if the seller did some pretty bespoke things like decide by himself which engines would be good (enough), etc.

[Azul]

Originally Posted by Fore and Aft

The real question is have you been for a motor on a PDQ cat with twin 9.9hp outboards? I have been involved with more than one survey where the performance under motor has not met the buyers expectations. You need to know for yourself that the cat can maintain some reasonable cruising speed without flogging the motors.
Cheers

This is a good point above. It would be a pita to make a long trip to pick up the boat after sale and find one of the motors won't start or stalls out when put in gear when you try to move it to a new home. Good luck trying to get an outboard fixed on an emergency basis in the spring.

Another fine point is that to adequately test an outboard motor it is insufficient to run it on muffs. Lots of them run fine on muffs and in neutral, but show various problems when run under a load, which should be done for 15 minutes. I had a Yamaha 70 that was in the salt for 20 years and would get hot and shut down into limp mode when run over 4800 rpms because the cooling system was corroded. No big deal just didn't go over 4800 rpms. Carburetor problems will also show up such as stalling out when put into gear because the low speed jets have some trash particle clogs. Learn how to clean the carburetor with a manual. Just sitting around for a few months can mess up the carburetor especially with ethanol fuel which turns into jelly blobs and varnish.

I have one of these Yamaha 9.9 high thrust motors. They are extremely reliable when routinely maintained. Traded painting a big porch deck for a Cal 27 wreck just to get this desirable motor off the Cal stern, it had just been serviced by a Yamaha mechanic- $650 itemized bill. Then I traded the POS Cal for a Catalina 22 that was awesome hahaha.

But after checking out the motor it started poorly and I had to clean the carburetor again it wasn't done well enough by the shop, I found the master mechanic hadn't bothered to change the impeller which had already completely imploded, the gear oil was old, and one of the bolts that held the lower case on was frozen in place and broke in half, what a pain to get that stud out and replace it. Anybody can learn to work on these outboards, plenty of how to videos around.

BTW years later I still use that outboard and the Catalina. Good stuff lasts.
Don't trust experts, especially surveyors! At the bottom of their contract there is always the disclaimer they are not responsible for problems they miss. And missing problems both big and small happens way too often.

[Bmorgan562]

Originally Posted by Brassmonkeys

I am looking at a 1998 39 foot catamaran that is currently being stored on the hard. This would be a new purchase. The boat appears to be in good shape and it is powered by two fixed outboard engines instead of diesel. I already know I need to replace one of the engines and they are very affordable to do it yourself. The other engine is brand new and has not even been in the water yet.

If I spring for a wet survey then I will have to pay for a haul, blocking fee and seat trial. I will also need to rig all the sails and unfortunately the boat is a 10 hour drive away. Since I am not worried about the engines is it a big deal to skip the sea trial and just rely on the dry survey?

Seems to be confusing terminology. Or it’s me but a survey is conducted on the land correct? A sea trial on the water? And in you are concerned about the aux then that usually is a separate survey on its own by a mechanic right? If you committing any amount of money to a boat why wouldn’t you go for all three?

[Bmorgan562]

Seems to be confusing terminology. Or it’s me but a survey is conducted on the land correct? A sea trial on the water? And in you are concerned about the aux then that usually is a separate survey on its own by a mechanic right? If you committing any amount of money to a boat why wouldn’t you go for all three?

[valhalla360]

Originally Posted by Dougtiff

The nomenclature is normally a "out of water survey versus a " in the water survey", the insurance Co. is going to want a "out of water survey normally", the cost is on you, even if you don't purchase the boat, if that would be the case, at least you didn't hafto pay for the haul out, good luck. P.S., after survey, do sea trials.

Usually it's "survey" and "sea trial".

Ideally, the "survey" happens out of the water as you can't sound the hull and check some other items with the boat in the water.

Sea trial is usually about making sure the engine and sails are functional and the boat handles reasonably. But often it's little more than taking her for a joy ride.

[TabbyCat]

Originally Posted by Brassmonkeys

Since I am not worried about the engines is it a big deal to skip the sea trial and just rely on the dry survey?

From an insurance standpoint, the underwriters want to see a hauled survey, not an in-water one. From a personal perspective, if you've sailed the same model of boat before, you already know whether you are happy with the sailing performance. You can have them check the engines out of water by running a flush unit to the water intake. But certainly, it's easier to raise the sails while in water (some marinas don't allow you to raise the sails on the hard) and check for damage, and sails can be expensive, much more than an outboard, to replace. Or perhaps you can have a sailmaker look at the sails?

[Lateral Hazard]

My experience is limited on newer boats. On the hard survey was interesting. Sea trial was the most worthwhile investment we made. If you are very experienced, do not do one. If not spend the money. It will pay you back tenfold.

[tomtriad]

Is OP still reading these? If so, I highly recommend a sea trial, including a sail on the boat, particularly if he's never sailed the same model before. There's a reason that it has 3' transom extensions - the PDQ is not a great performer when loaded for cruising, and he might be expecting a bit more. The twin Yamaha 9.9's are adequate for the boat, but the correct model, extra long shaft, electric start, with remote control is closer to $4k than $3k.

[SimonFirth]

You should always test all the systems afloat.

And as for slipping and survey, the usual story is that if you buy the boat, the seller pays. If you don’t buy the boat, you pay ... which is cheap insurance compared to what it will cost if you buy a lemon!

Make sure you agree on that before you get the survey done ... and no, the seller does not get to nominate the surveyor.

[pcmm]

Originally Posted by SimonFirth

You should always test all the systems afloat.

And as for slipping and survey, the usual story is that if you buy the boat, the seller pays. If you don’t buy the boat, you pay ... which is cheap insurance compared to what it will cost if you buy a lemon!

Make sure you agree on that before you get the survey done ... and no, the seller does not get to nominate the surveyor.

That's not "the usual case" the seller doesn't pay for the survey if you buy. Its a buyers cost through and through. Well at least that's the case where I am...

[valhalla360]

Originally Posted by pcmm

That's not "the usual case" the seller doesn't pay for the survey if you buy. Its a buyers cost through and through. Well at least that's the case where I am...

Beat me to it...the survey is primarily for the buyers benefit, so it (and related costs) are the buyers expense.