Props for 9.9 on Seawind 1000

[tomfl]

Originally Posted by geoffq1

I would keep the props however it seems outboard motors nowdays do not come with props. FWIW, the new 9.9 only comes with power tilt, I don't want power tilt as it is just somethings else that will eventually break, if I don't want I have to pay them to remove if only after I purchase the new engine.That's the Australian marine industry, charge the punter, they will pay. This my reason in asking which is the most appropiate prop.

Thanks
Geoff

Interesting comment. I am in the process of doing the same thing. In the US the long shaft high thrust do come with 11.75 X 7 prop and electric tilt is an extra cost option. Current cost is $US3,019.01, with free shipping.

https://www.boats.net/product/access...7e92f25d7b5974

[sailjumanji]

I apologize upfront for the long post, but this is a post I made on the Seawind forum in 2012, regarding the repower of our Seawind 1000 at that time. We used the boat another six years before upsizing to a Seawind 1160 Lite, including one trip from Texas to Bahamas and back. Overall, the new motors were quieter and more fuel efficient than the 2002 motors, but a little less "umph" at takeoff. We did get to use the pull starts one time in an emergency, because of an electrical failure, and I was very glad to have that option. Anyway, here is the post I wrote back then, that might help in your installation.
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"Just wanted to share some info on our recent re-power of 2002 Seawind 1000, hull 123. The original engines were 2002 year model Yamaha FT9.9D outboards. The port engine failed after 1,100 hours (crankshaft & bearings), and the cost to repair the motor was estimated to be $2,600 vs $3,000 for new motor. We chose to replace both engines with new Yamaha XEHA model outboards. These are 9.9 hp, extra-long shaft (25 in) engines – as were the original motors. However, as Joe and others have noted, the original motors were the 323 cm3 (19.71 cu in) displacement outboard that used the same block as the 15 hp. The new 9.9 Yamahas share the same block as the 8 hp models with 212 cm3. I cannot comment on thrust generated by new motor vs the old ones, as they've only been run a few minutes so far. On the plus side, the new motors weigh less, are smaller, and quieter – and may burn less fuel.

Anyway, back to the re-power. The choice facing anyone in the US doing this is to buy: a) model with remote shift and throttle setup, but with power tilt and trim (and a very tall mounting bracket that requires modification of the motor pod), or b) model with tiller and manual tilt and trim (and shorter mounting bracket). We opted for selection b), and ordered the stainless parts from Seawind to convert from tiller to remote operation. (Current cost is $315 per motor for the Seawind parts, plus $70 shipping from Aussie land.) The two-motor bundle of parts is shown in the picture labeled "ONE - SEAWIND KIT".

We disconnected the shift cable in the motor, by pulling out one very small cotter pin. This is going to take a long screwdriver to bend flat, and then a set of needle-nose pliers to pull it. Just follow the shift cable to find it. The throttle control actually consists of two cables that pull in either direction. You can loosen the cables and then the slugs on the end have to be worked thru some slots to disconnect. Then disconnect the wiring (unplugged the two starter button wires, and the two kill switch wires), and completely remove the tiller handle. You can see in picture TWO that the only remnants of the tiller are the two holes (top, right). I saved the tiller assembly as when I was selling my old working motor, there was a lot of demand from fishermen wanting to use them for kickers, but few wanted to deal with the remote controls. This will allow me to convert the motors back to tiller operation.

On the tiller side, is a soft rubber section that is about 3 inches wide by 1-1/2 inches tall that has three holes - one for the power cable, one for the throttle and shift cables, and a third hole for the small wires of the kill switch and starter button. This rubber section pops in and out pretty easily. We removed the new power cable, and used the hole to hookup the old power cable to the motor. The throttle/shift cable holes were filled with black silicone and sealed - since you are going to be moving these cables to the other side of the motor. The third hole - a round one - was used to run the electrical harness cable into the motor. Note that we also re-used our old 7-pin harness for this, and did not buy a new harness. (Re-using the harness and the power cables also avoided having to rerun and seal these thru the bulkhead.) Look at the rubber section, and compare it to the cable and harness wires, and it's pretty obvious which hole to use for the power cable (flat), and which to use for the wiring harness (round).

Wiring was very simple as Yamaha wiring is standard color. Merely hook up the harness wires to the same color wires in the motor. All of the connections are on one side of the motor, and held in place in a bracket. There are also a couple of connections in the front. The male ends on the harness plug into female wires on the motors. Some female ends of harness wires had male ends in the motor. It was pretty idiot proof. Although I was really concerned about this beforehand, wiring turned out to be the easiest part of the re-power. Go ahead and wire up the harness before you put the motor in the well. If you look at picture one, you can see how the power cable and wiring harness fit under a plastic fitting near the top right, and then lead into the rubber panel on the motor. I also zip tied these two cables to this fitting, so they don't move. Near the top of picture TWO, you can also see where all of the wires come together.

Now for the Teleflex cables. The Seawind parts include a bracket that bolts to the bottom cowling of the motor, using existing holes. The throttle and shift cables are held in place with Teleflex cable clips (also included in the Seawind kit). It is a fairly sturdy bracket, and needs to be as the cables put a lot of stress on it. The bracket is well-made, with the only disappointment being the holes pre-drilled on the bracket are not the same spacing as the Teleflex cable clips. So be prepared to drill new holes - which unfortunately need to overlap the old holes - or "widen" them however you can. Make sure you have new bits as stainless is not easy to drill, especially when the new hole overlaps the old.

For the attachment of the throttle cable on top, the holes were in the right location, but just needed to be correctly spaced. For the shift attachment on the side, we found that drilling new holes about one-half inch closer to the motor allowed for more thread in the plastic end piece of the cable. (In the original hole position, there was only about 1/4 inch of the cable rod threaded into the end fitting.) In picture THREE, you can see the cable attachments. The choke and the hard rubber panel on this side of the motor are removed. Note that the throttle is on the right, and the shift cable on the left. (Ignore the second set of holes we drilled further in from the throttle cable attachment. I was trying to see if moving it back a half inch - as was necessary for the shift cable - but this moved it too far back.)

Another thing to note in picture THREE is that the Seawind bracket is attached via the two Phillips-head screws seen below the throttle cable. (Note that you have to buy all of these screws - they are not in the Seawind kit. If I had thought about it, I should have noted diameter and length of each of the screws we used. We ended up buying several sizes, and cut them off with a hacksaw to get a precise length.) I used stainless steel washers, separated from the aluminum motor with nylon washers - to prevent corrosion. I layed a couple of sections of electrical tape on the top of the bracket that comes in contact with the motor, to prevent corrosion as well. Nylock nuts were used on all screws. Also, you can see that I used black heat shrink tubing to seal the connection of the stainless cable tube to the cable end fitting. On my cables (old), these tubes had separated and left wire exposed. Hopefully this will limit the exposure of the wire section to salt water.

The black round fitting that is about two inches to the right of the throttle cable - with a rubber cap to the right of that - is the new Yamaha fuel line fitting. They are now round, and you twist on the hose. The short black hose on the left side of the motor is the flush hose. I eventually extended these up so they could be accessed easier. (More on that later.) The water hose end fitting normally attaches to the motor, but this bracket was removed as it was in the way of the new shift cable placement. Note that this end fitting must stay connected when the motor is run, or else the water will go overboard and not cool the powerhead.

Unfortunately I do not have better pictures of the shift connection installed. You can see the fitting in the middle of the SEAWIND KIT picture earlier. Probably the best piece of the Seawind kit is this short stainless steel arm that attaches to the shift axle running across the motor. If you look closely at picture THREE, this axle runs below the attachment point for the throttle. You can see the shiny stainless fitting coming in from the left side of the motor, and held in place with a hex-head screw. Whereas the Yamaha kit has this shift lever made in plastic, and turned up, the Seawind kit features it in stainless, and turned down. A rubber cap is removed from the side of the motor, and the Seawind piece is slid onto the shift axle, and fastened with a bolt with metric threads. The bolt threads into the axle. This is really the only metric bolt you will need to buy (unless you live outside of the US). Oh, and one more thing I did before sliding on the Seawind shift lever was to put two o-rings on the piece. There is not enough space for them to fit between the lever and the motor, but on the outside they can act as a bit of a guard to limit water splashing in between the shift piece and the motor.

If you look at picture FOUR, you can see the choke installed, and the hard rubber panel at the base of the choke pull in place as well. This panel needs to be drilled so that the throttle cable can fit thru it. This takes a lot of measurement to determine where to drill, and a 1/4 in hole. (I stretched tape across the opening, straightened a coat hanger, and ran it thru the Teleflex cable bracket to the throttle end fitting to see where the hole should be located to line up.) The rubber drills very easily. I spaced up a bit size because a 1/4 inch bit yielded a hole smaller than ¼ inch. After you drill the hole, take a sharp knife and cut a slit from the hole down thru the bottom of the rubber panel. This makes it easy to put on without having to remove the cable. The slit closes up watertight when the metal piece on top is bolted on. Near the bottom of picture FOUR you can see three holes in the bracket that were not used. The outside empty holes were the original ones. The middle hole is one drilled to fit the Teleflex clamp. The screws shown are for the final placement of the Teleflex clamp (which is on the other side, and cannot be seen in this picture.) So you might want to check your shift cable length before drilling any new holes.

As the shift lever is not turned down, whereas the old motor lever was turned up, the next step required is to disassembly the Teleflex shifter/throttle control and move the shift cable to the other side of the cam. I removed the hose clamps in the starboard hull closet below, and tugged on the cables to try to get some excess so that the Teleflex assembly could be pulled up to access the cable attachments. This is where things got bloody as the internals of this mechanism have a host of sharp parts. Also be careful that you don't pull the assembly so far as to break the soldered wire connection that tells the key switch the motor is in neutral, and motor circuit allowed to start. This is easy to figure out once you see the assembly internals. It would probably help to have someone below helping, but not necessary (as I did mine myself). Note that if you don't do this step, when you move the shift forward, the motor will go into reverse. As I had both an old and new motor installed at the same time. I had to disassemble this assembly twice. I thought about doing both sides at the same time when doing the initial, port motor installation, but didn't think anyone test driving the old motor would be impressed by it running backwards!

So that finishes the heavy stuff. Earlier I pointed out the water flush hose. I removed the end fitting and added a 5/16 inch barb-to-barb connector and about two feet of Teleflex 5/16 inch fuel hose to extend the end fitting up to a reachable level. See picture FIVE - FLUSH HOSE. I also enclosed this hose in the corrugated plastic tubing that is normally used to encase wires and prevent them from chafe. You don't want this piece of hose to chafe thru, as your cooling water will be dumped overboard. I screwed the end fitting to a small piece of high-density plastic. The screws come from the back of the plate, into the plastic fitting - so you will need to countersink them. Then I screwed the plate to the motor box with 1/2 inch long screws. Be careful here as the motor box is very thin and you can easily drill thru it. (Of course, if you don't care about screw heads showing, you can always just drill thru the box and screw into the plastic fitting!) I zip-tied the tubing to the motor bracket to keep it from chafing on the motor or the shift cable. It probably needs an additional clamp added to keep it from falling into the motor well when disconnected. Only other thing to note in this picture is that the fuel hoses are fairly long, so we can lead them back and hook them into a special cap on the Honda generator. When they are hooked to the outboard, there is a loop of fuel line velcro'd on the wall.

Ok, so you probably noticed from picture FIVE that the footprint of these new motors is very much smaller than the older motors. Plus Yamaha listed the old 9.9's at 116 lbs, but I suspect that was closer to 120 lbs based on hefting them off and on the boat a few times. We weighed the new motor with the tiller removed, and it came in at exactly 100 lbs. It is noticeably lighter to carry than the old ones. Compare picture SIX to SEVEN to see the difference in size.

Included in the Seawind parts is also a bracket to keep the motor from turning. Both the old and new motors have the same friction lever that keeps the motor from turning when engage, and allows it to turn when loosened. As this still works on both of my old motors, and I like the ability to turn them when working on them, I did not install the Seawind brackets. It also appeared that the friction levers had to be disassembled on the motors to install the Seawind brackets. If motor turning ever becomes an issue, I will pull the motors and install them.

To-date, I installed the port motor, but had a bit of delay on the starboard motor installation as I left the old one in place while trying to sell it. (Generally people want to see them run before purchase!) A week ago the old motor sold, and I installed the new starboard motor as well. Due to other commitments, I have only run each of them a few minutes, flushed them, and left the boat. The new motors are very much quieter, but "wiggle" much more than the older motors. If it was a two-stroke, I would say this is from break-in, but not sure about four-stroke. The previous owner replaced the wood on the starboard motor bracket with plastic Star Board, and as the port wood was showing some cracking, I did the same to the port side when we had the engines off. I also replaced all of the board attachment screws as they had evidence of crevice corrosion, and it was very easy to do when the motors were off. I also put new bolts in to screw the motors to the brackets, and note the hole placement is not the same for the new motors - so these have to be drilled. (One of those 12 inch long, 1/4 inch diameter bits does this easily.) I have purchased new hour meters and tachometers, and hope to install all of this in the next week or two. We are planning a long trip in early August, so would be good to get some of the motor break-in done prior to departure."