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les graham · 13-09-2016, 05:54

Hi, I thank you for the clarification. It is true the accumulation of required sea time has been dumbed down which is a pity. So too the theory work at least at cox'n level.
I still hear cox'n course students shaking at the thought of the dreaded orals.
Both my wife and I did our training through TAFE (Tech college). This was many years ago. My original tickets were pre USL. I recall most of the lecturers then, were ex foreign going masters

As you rightly say these courses will not teach you how to sail but they as sure as hell will improve your seamanship.

My son trained at the Maritime College in Tassie. This appears to be very good.

By perpetual tickets do you mean my beautifully scrolled wall certificate as "Master of a harbour and River Steamer" ? The closest I got to steam was when the jug boiled

The insurance was GJW for our yacht in the Med.

tuskie · 13-09-2016, 14:16

Quote:

Originally Posted by les graham

By perpetual tickets do you mean my beautifully scrolled wall certificate as "Master of a harbour and River Steamer" ? The closest I got to steam was when the jug boiled

The insurance was GJW for our yacht in the Med.

Thanks for that.

No, before AMSA took over regulation of tickets, some states issued perpetual licences eg. Queensland Coxwain ticket didn't require renewal. However, if you wish to work in other AustralIan states you must "upgrade" to a newer non- perpetual AMSA ticket. The Steamer Master's ticket was before my time, but I'm sure you are correct in saying that they were perpetual as well.

Dave_S · 13-09-2016, 14:52

Thanks all

From your comments this might be more like what I'm looking for.

https://www.marinetraining.com.au/as...016%20DPSS.pdf

Dave_S · 13-09-2016, 15:03

Thanks for all the effort you've put in with your responses, much appreciated.

Lots to soak in and practice.

Dave

Quote:

Originally Posted by tomfl

Not sure how things in Oz work but in the US a government agency (NOAA) broadcasts local weather conditions on the lower VHF channels 24/7, and warnings if necessary. Several web sites I can pick up with my cell phone also have real time radar and weather information. Most folks who live on boats in the US use these, and other sources as well, to keep up with current and expected weather conditions. For longer passages the resources you mentioned come into play but I suggest you hold off on that for a while.

The only topic at CF causing more arguments than which anchor is best is firearms on a boat. Still there is something to be learned about anchoring by reading some of the threads. The key in my mind is that you don't need a good anchor, you need good ground tackle. To me this includes at least two anchors on the bow ready to quickly deploy and more spares elsewhere. Both the two primary anchors should have adequate chain for the conditions. Most cat skippers also use a bridle and several folks also use snubbers. There are lively arguments on how to attach the bridle to the bows of the cat and to the anchor chain as well. Even with a less than idea anchor if the spot chosen to drop the anchor has good holding and plenty of chain is let out along with a bridle that is set well you will most likely be better off than if you have a brand new expensive anchor on a bad bottom with a short chain. I always look for a sandy spot in 8-10 feet of water, drop the anchor and maybe 15 feet of chain, let it get tight, let out 10-15 more; and keep repeating till I have a 7-1 rode (e.g. 7 feet of chain for each foot of water depth. Then I set the bridle. As a rule both sides of the bridle are the same length; but if the wind and current are not from the same direction you can adjust one side shorter/longer than the other to get the waves to meet the bows head on. The result is not only a more comfortable night's sleep but less strain on the anchor. I then sit down in the salon; turn on my anchor alarm, I use Drag Queen, a free cell phone app but there are plenty of these. I try to get a feel for how the boat is swinging at anchor. I also take some bearings on landmarks if possible. Next I back down the anchor; another contentious subject as to should this be done at 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, or full reverse. In any case after spending probably half an hour or more anchoring I feel comfortable assessing if the anchor will hold or if I need to pull up the hook and look for another spot.

The simple definition of how to balance a boat is to get the CE (Center of Effort) directly above the CLR (Center of Lateral Resistance). If you float a match stick in a bowl of water and push one end the end moves, but if you push in the exact center of the match stick the whole match stick moves sideways; both ends move the same. This is the CLR. If you hold up a 4X4 sheet of plywood in the wind and put a stick in the exact center the sheet will not blow over. The same holds true for a single sail. Simple physics will allow the calculation if two sails are flying.

So far we have only talked about static concepts, but sails are dynamic, same for boat hulls moving through water with waves. If you sheet in a sail the CE moves aft, if you sheet out it moves forward, same goes for adjusting the traveler. Not sure about your main but many modern sails like square tops and fat heads are described as opening up (the top part of the sail twists out more than lower parts) as the traveler is adjusted. Another factor is what is called the slot, the space between a head sail and main looking from the cockpit to the bow. As a rule you want the curve of the trailing edge of the head sail to look like the curve of the main where the trailing edge of the head sail is in relation to the main. But adjusting any of these things can shift the CE fore or aft of the CLR. Spending time at the wheel and playing with the sheets and traveler is the only way to get to know how your boat will react to changes.

Just remember the first rule of sailing; I would rather be in port and wish I was at sea than be at sea and wish I was in port.