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md7a · 15-01-2013, 22:00

I recently did a deck repair on my 31' scarfing and covering the local area. I have not had concerns about deck integrity, but I will say that the job would have been easier overall if I had replaced the whole ama deck. Plywood and epoxy are much cheaper than the time for complex cuts around the a frame.

Also might be worth mentioning that my boat has stantions that go through the deck and are bolted and bedded to the ama bulkhead. Creates risk of deck rot, but very strong.

rossad · 15-01-2013, 22:24

I like your post Mark and I would have to agree with John.
Always ready to learn and make things better for myself if i can afford it.
Us Searunner guys help each other.

Fixing these Searunners that are getting into worse condition can be a handful. We need all the help we can get.

Mark Johnson · 16-01-2013, 05:47

To touch on the subject of our refrigeration once again, I thought of a couple of extra points...

In our case, before dropping the completed box in it's new home, it was wrapped in 2 to 3" of Reflectex (foil/bubble wrap sheet). This was flat easy to do, and offered even more IR barrier, with extra insulation as well. The elephant's trunk ducting to the sealed compressor box was Reflectex wrapped too, and the sealed compressor box's "out" muffin fan was doubled up, so that now, there is one in the "in" vent as well. (Thanks for that one go to Don Clark, my marine refrigeration expert, and friend)...

ALSO... Consider this important fact:
With ALL things being equal, a refrigeration OR ice box such as ours, may very well be 30% to 50% MORE efficient on a Searunner, than on a Cat or monohull! Why? Location, location, location.

The preferred location on a Searunner, (as those with one know), is not in a counter top, it is below the floor, in the sterncastle. This is a great location, as momentarily lifting ones feet for access, only takes seconds, vs first clearing the counter, to get to the refrigerator's lid.

The REAL advantage is ambient air temperature around the box, the ducting, and the compressor!

When we were in the Chesapeake, for example, and air temp during a heat wave was 105 F, the water temp was in the 80s. The box and compressor are sealed under gasketed floor boards, inches from the hull, under the wl... The "in" ducting to the compressor is in this 18 to 20 degree cooler air too, and the warmer "out" ducting is heavily insulated. The "in" vent is also below the wl, but remote from the box.

We use a green LED to know when the unit kicks on, as we can't hear it otherwise, and we have a Radio Shack indoor/outdoor thermometer tell us what the temp is in the box, without opening the lid, which is even further insulated by padded carpet! The compressor just kicks on for a few minutes, every couple of hours or so! (Far less in winter)...

Like all of my systems, I FIRST did my homework, then I applied everything I had learned from having done this stuff since childhood. If I was doing it over now, the results would be even better, with the more efficient "variable speed compressors" that they've come out with... (which ours is not).

Many of the "truisms" that I read, like: "You can't use solar panels for total power, WITH refrigeration onboard", "Refrigeration takes about 100 A.h. / day", or "Air cooled will not work in the tropics", are just not necessarily true. In our case, all three have been proven to be patently false!

M.

Roy M · 16-01-2013, 08:18

Reassuring words, Mark! I am at a temporary standstill on my own reefer, under the sterncastle sole. The really expensive parts (besides the compressor, motor, and related hardware) are the vacuum insulated panels that I have chosen to use. It's just a matter of spare cash, which in this season is as scanty as fresh, ripe mangos. But it will happen. I will be using your idea of the Reflectix, as well. I've seen some very nice installations which include this stuff. I'm probably going to use it as headliner insulation, as well. Light weight, not expensive, and perfect for the job. Everyone in the northern hemisphere, keep warm and avoid this pesky flu. Summer's coming.

searunner31 · 16-01-2013, 13:31

Thank you all for your quick reply. I was hoping not to have to hull out to fix it. I don't know with just releasing it from the AMA in the water if it would give enough room to scarf in under it.. But I do like the access vent idea also as it would make life easier in the future. the wood wasnt rotten but my 270 pound is lot, but not hurt just sore. I'm thinking on all my stanchions and the where the tensioner to go ahead and strengthening them more.

I wish someone close that knows the 31 could look her overfor me. this is my first searunner. I've wanted one for years. I'm in the SF bday area.

Again thank you for your help.

Randy · 16-01-2013, 14:01

It takes a good sized doubler 1/2 -3/4" to spread the load across the deck. If you're that big of guy you can't fit inside the ama to do any of the work!

Mark Johnson · 16-01-2013, 15:27

Quote:

Originally Posted by Roy M

Reassuring words, Mark! I am at a temporary standstill on my own reefer, under the sterncastle sole. The really expensive parts (besides the compressor, motor, and related hardware) are the vacuum insulated panels that I have chosen to use. It's just a matter of spare cash, which in this season is as scanty as fresh, ripe mangos. But it will happen. I will be using your idea of the Reflectix, as well. I've seen some very nice installations which include this stuff. I'm probably going to use it as headliner insulation, as well. Light weight, not expensive, and perfect for the job. Everyone in the northern hemisphere, keep warm and avoid this pesky flu. Summer's coming.

Roy,
I'm sure that your installation will be first rate, like everything else that you do. Send pics when you have them.

Your vacuum panels will be well worth it, especially for us Searunners. Otherwise, using an equivalent R value of foam, in the space that we have available, would leave just enough room for maybe, three beers! These panels make it all work, and that is why I put my money in them, rather than the most efficient possible compressor. I bet you will have BOTH.

With foam, the increase in insulation value with thickness is fairly linear, up to 5", then it tapers a bit up to 7" thick. After that you've reach the point of diminishing returns. (I calculated my box to = 7", and stopped there).
Still, having said that, I remember, as a teenager, an ice box that me and co-workers built into a party barge (for anchoring in ponds). We were popping these 10X12' barges out as a business venture. The interior of the ice box was about 2 qu/ft, and it was insulated with pour in place foam poured between it and the huge outer box, to the tune of about 2' thick!

The owner said it would keep a block of ice for weeks! Insulation is really cool stuff, (no pun intended).
M.

searunner31 · 16-01-2013, 15:28

Randy thanks but I know I can't get in the AMA I don't think someone 65 lbs could eithet

Roy M · 17-01-2013, 08:02

When I was building my boat, I hired an eight-year old friend to climb into the bow area and back up the stringers with a piece of steel so I could nail down the decking. Fortunately, I had epoxied all the surfaces first so no further work needed to be done up there. One of these days I'll need to send someone small up there with a vacuum to clean up any collected dirt and dust of thirty-five years. I use the screw-in ports on my aft float inboard hull to provide access to the stern cleat nuts and to allow the float to "breathe" when I am at the dock.