Trimaran - Especially Searunner - Owners

[multihuler]

Brand new sails for Marples CC35, cheap, see classifieds..... Used mainsail off Farrier Command ten 35' trimaran, fresh water,very nice $700, uses backstay. 775 827 2786 PST

[Roy M]

Dan, that is a pretty impressive electrical system you have chosen to put together. Do you have an engine or outboard (with electric start)? I especially like the simplicity of how you power the AC side of your system, plug the cabin outlets into the shore power outlet or the inverter outlet. What size batteries, and what type of construction are they? I also admire the graphics you used to create the schematic, very clear for those who are unfamiliar to electrical drawings. How did you put it together? I'd like to use a similar diagram for my own boat so that all crew members could quickly and easily troubleshoot an electrical issue. Your diagram is the most user-friendly I've ever seen. Well done!

[slowbat]

Hi Roy,

Thanks for your comments. My Searunner has a 4hp Yamaha out-board with no charging or electric starting system. I have not sized out the battery's yet.

I would like to go un-plugged for at least 2+ weeks in Alaska. With solar and any wind, this should not be a issue with two small (auto size) gel type, as my draw should not be too much.

As simple as this looks, I still like the oil lamp rout over the weight this is adding to the boat.

I wanted the AC part to be as minimal as possible. It might be handy to charge a laptop or something on the go, I only added it in because I had the parts.

The bulk of the 12V DC Blue Sea Systems stuff was new, that I found at a marine swap-meet, This is really how I started the design and lay-out of my plan. I would prefer if all of the AC and DC was on one panel.

One thing I wanted to do when I was done with the restoration was to build a really good manual for it. When I started listing out all of the part numbers for the system, It made sense to add the image, for some-one that is not savvy with electrical.

It turned out so good I think I will also do the plumbing too.

I plan to add a number to every connection on the schematic, and a sticker "wire marker" physically at each connection. This will make the system super traceable and easy for anyone to track down issues or make mods in the future.

[Roy M]

Dan, I use the numbering system for my own boat, which is a bit bigger (40'). What I did was to categorize each wire as to its origin and function. All primary (positive) wiring got the prefix 00-, followed by a two digit number corresponding to the circuit breaker that protected it. For example, my starboard-side cabin lighting circuit is 01, therefore, the wire coming out of the breaker is 01, which then goes to a buss, off of which all the branches on the starboard side take off (i.e., starboard forward cabin lights=01-01). In my boat, when I first built it back in the 70's, I had six circuit breakers in total. Now, thirty-five years later (and a complete rewire) I have 16 DC circuits and 3 AC circuits (because of a big inverter). So, being able to identify every single wire in the boat was critical. I used Excel to build a spreadsheet to I could have the right size wire for the intended current flow, all the way to the unit that required power. After I calculated the current loads, etc., I was then able to design what's called a distributed system, with supply wiring, distribution busses, and the final wiring that went to each electrical unit. My boat is fairly complex, electrically, because it's what I do for a living, but also it was the challenge that motivated me. Your boat, though a bit smaller and less greedy for electrons, is well designed and efficiently laid out.

For labelling, I have tried many things. My current system is to use a Brother labelmaker, on which I create a 2 1/2" long label with two lines of info, both on the left side of the label. The first line has the circuit code number, followed on the second line by the name of the unit served (i.e., 03-07-08, GALLEY SINK NIGHT LIGHT). All of the info is on the left side of the label, then the label is wrapped around the end of the wire, like a little flag. It makes it really easy to find the right wire connection in a mass of wire, like I often will have, say in the electrical cabinet. The resultant "flag" is about an inch long, on 1/2" label tape. It's waterproof, sturdy to abusive handling, and fast. The other tapes I've used tend to get sticky over time and then come off easily, or are really hard to see by ageing eyes in dark spaces.

But, returning to how you crafted your own schematic, how exactly did you put it together. I'm really quite impressed by the simplicity and how easy it is to understand. Pictures are worth much more than symbols or words.

I assume you are using LED nav lights and LED lights for most of your other needs? I am converting most of my lamps to LED to save big on battery use. The only exception is for some security lights at the spreaders and stern arch, which use High Intensity Discharge bulbs (the bright ones you see on luxury headlamps) to turn night into daylight, for less amperage than conventional halogen floodlights.

[Boatguy30]

I would think you would want to pickup a Tohatsu 6 sail pro with the 6 amp charger and maybe a single 80 amp panel with say one group 27 or 31 battery. This will do you for led cabin and nav lights as well as keeping a tablet charged. a SR 25 is way too small for a wind gennie fridge, anything if the sort. You're actually probably better off with just head lamps and batteries in north during the summer, never gets dark right?

sounds like a great trip, hope to get that way at some point in the next 10 or so years.

[slowbat]

Originally Posted by Roy M

But, returning to how you crafted your own schematic, how exactly did you put it together. I'm really quite impressed by the simplicity and how easy it is to understand. Pictures are worth much more than symbols or words.

.

Not sure what you are asking?

I used the program Adobe Illustrator, I simply found each item in my system by doing a Google image search. When I found a nice one with a white background I cut and pasted into the doc scaling it to match other items in the system, I later went in and moved stuff around linking it together with different thicknesses of colored lines, at any splice point I added a dot of the same color. I thought it was clean looking. I have done wiring diagrams before using MS Power-point. This is the first time I have used the images of the component.

I will be using LED's and prefer paper charts most of the time. My power needs will be super low,

I'm sticking with the Yamaha, it uses most of the same parts as my 2.5hp on my tender. I dont want to mess with swapping out to gain the ALT. on a motor that weighs twice as much.

I do not know if I will mount the wind gen yet. I will see how my panels and usage goes before then......Ice cold beer sure would be nice, but not worth the creation for the power, I can always chip off a hunk of iceberg for a frosty one.


You can also "like" my page on FB. I add photos and make fun of myself weekly as kind'a a free blog
Google "Facebook Searunner 25"

[Roy M]

Thanks, Dan. That pretty much explained the process for me. It was very creative and effective.

[rossad]

Very professional slowbat. Impressive and creative. I am starting to wonder about all this wiring that i am doing on my boat.... keep it simple versus all the mod cons. So much more weight with wire going all over the boat. But then you get to have so much more available.
I like to keep up with modern systems and have what is on offer but i must admit these trimarans.... are they suited to this kind of technology...
I dont know really. How important is weight with these trimarans. Every one talks about weight and how they need to be kept light. what gets left off the boat.
I know a guy whom built his own tri.. Bernard Rohdes. He left England in late 60's and sailed to NZ. He even proved capsizing and righting the boat in a lagoon. It was news in one of the old mags. The boat was called kliss just 22 ft long. Bernard thought that some weight in the armas was a good thing. He reckoned it saved his life. Back to weight again... all this wiring for all the modern stuff and the power systems to make it all real... ummmmm dont really really know if it works with trimarans...

[Capt.Timbo]

Roy,

We've been outfitting our boat with add-ons and upgrades for the past year. It is completed at this point in time, for now...

Our auxiliary is a fixed 60 hp Yamaha mounted in the aft. It is housed beneath a hatch in which it can be removed easily through for repairs. at 1800 rpms, we average 10 knots and about 8mpg. The fuel cell is 50 gallons.

Our electrical system is both AC and solar. While at the dock, the tri-star monitor will disengage the solar panels and dock power takes over. She has three solar panels which normally drive 40 watts to our three banks of batteries. We hace a 3000 conveter away from the dock and 12v outlets both fore and aft, as well as AC outlets.

She has four roller furling sails, the Genoa, Jib, Cutter and main. When the Genoa is pulled out, she takes on a whole new sailing dimension, but always be forewarned, when a storm is approaching in your direction, get the Genoa in quickly, otherwise all Hell with break loose. She is a hand full in nice weather, but you better be prepared for the worst, before it is on top of you.

We installed an 4G Broadband Radar and Lowrance GPS Gen ll. She is also equipped with an Autohelm 6000, great to have when I single hand from Carrabelle to Panama City. I am currently planning a trip to Clearwater this weekend and will have a buddy join me. 170 miles is the furthest distance I've sailed in the Gulf of Mexico and weather conditions permitting, I would like to make a bee line. I hope to average 11 knots, but if the conditions are good she can run 15 knots.

In the head, we opted for the Electra Scan sanitation system. It has a one touch power flush feature. It is simple, Coast Guard approved and eliminates the fuss over pump out stations, log books, or dealing with holding tank issues. Not to mention, the guest really like it over traditional pump type heads.

We have installed a water maker that will generate one gallon of water an hour, to provide a back up to out 75 gallon water tank. We have two showers, one outside cold water and one inside, hot water. We also have the salt water pump that works with a foot pedal in the galley, great for cleaning fish.

the galley is spacious and has refrigerator/freezer, stove, oven and tons of storage space in and under the bulkheads and decks.

Anyway, wanted to introduce myself and share a little bit about our boat, Wingin' it. We are soon to be regulars on the Cruisers forum.

Best,

Capt. Timbo and Judi

[Boatguy30]

Timbo

Would love to see some concrete data on your fuel consumption and mileage figures. I find it extremely hard to believe 10 knots at 8 mpg.

You must need what Roy, a full 40 horse at least to get 10 knots from a SR 40 hull.

To get 40 horse from even an extremely efficient petrol engine you'd need 3 gallons per hour.

You seem to be running nearly a perpetual motion machine there with those figures.

[Capt.Timbo]

Yeah, might be a good thing to hone in on down in Clearwater. Mileage is not that important to me, as I mostly sail, but the pass is five nautical miles from the marina we are at and I have gauged it on that only and refilling to my "marked" line. I'll let you know once I complete my scientific evaluation.

Thanks

[rossad]

Great to have you aboard Capt Timbo
What an amazing Tri you got. you must have been busy. If you are able would you post some pics of your vessel. I am interested in the double forestays you probably have and how you have fitted them to the deck with what size fulers
I havnt heard of your vessel Wingin... did you rename her ... just wondering.
Are there many Searunners in your area... i think your at Florida.

[Roy M]

Wow, that's quite a boat. I only have a 30 HP engine, weighing about 300 lbs., but it moves my boat at hull speed, which is about 8 knots, and consumes just over a half gallon per hour at 2300 RPM, to do so in flat water.

[Boatguy30]

So you claim 8 knots at 2300 rpm for a 3GM30

I guess the SR 34 and 37 are just real dogs compared to the 40 as you get no where these speeds at even much higher rpms from the same sized engine!!!

[Boatguy30]

Originally Posted by jmarples

Bob, Beware of modified Searunners. A number of Searunner 39s have been built by Erwin Krebs of Keaton Beach, Florida, claiming to be Searunners. They are not. He has never paid any royalties to Jim Brown for the use of the plans, or had any of the modifications approved. We are trying to make the multihull community aware of his activities. If any questions arise about the authenticity of these boats, I will be glad to answer. John Marples

Something of an aside, but I believe the boat Timbo has is one of the boats built by this chap.