Trimaran - Especially Searunner - Owners

[Cavalier MK2]

Cheers Dale, long haul voyagers should have the right gear before the long mast hoist...Mark's set up sounds safe, I know mine is. I use regular blocks, either large lewmar synchros or ones I made. They don;t have quick release which Mark rightly pointed out is dangerous. Big plain blocks are fairly affordable and can be used elsewhere on the boat. Ascenders can be found at places like REI and aren't too much money. Boating standards set the working load at 1/3 of the breaking load. Commercial standards have the working load at 1/5 so almost twice the strength is required. Getting up a mast can seem pretty hairy the first time and you have to know you can count on your gear absolutely. It helps if you climbed trees as a kid! If you didn't there always are people around to barter with.

[dale d]

I ran the numbers and hired it done <grin>
$20

[franzship]

RIP MOONDOG
45' Jim brown designed RF45 trimaran
Moondog has been destroyed by Napa Valley Marina. I tried to get her, but no luck.

[rossad]

Bugger

[Roy M]

I met the new owner of Glenn's Searunner 34 at Chula Vista Marina in San Diego, today. He was getting ready to take the boat north to Ventura and was asking me a lot of questions about the boat and sailing it. I have suggested he contact Mark Johnson for details. It's a nice boat, built in 1977 with West System. I recommended he drop the stick and do an overhaul, but I'm not sure the message took root. It's original and has never been overhauled. The new owner is a pilot, so I tried to use the metaphor of checking one's wings before a flight. We'll see.......

[md7a]

I am thinking of replacing the main on my 31. Anyone able to recommend a sailmaker, preferably on the west coast of the US?

[Randy]

Hasse Sailmakers in Port Townsend Wa are at the top that I know of.
Though I used North that were "cruisified" (beefed up: sewn hanks, chafe patches, etc.

[Cavalier MK2]

The Quantum loft in Seattle made a decent impression on me though I couldn't say if the sails are made there. It is hard to get North to take anything seriously that isn't a race boat. Several lofts have closed in the PNW over the last few years but there are some still listed. Outfits like Doyle that make Mulithull sails are probably worth the price, check what the Farrier guys are doing. The PT loft makes good cruising sails, I don't think they design them so making sure about the shape should be a priority. A tri needs a flatter cut, though these cruisers use a fuller one than a racer. The big thing- triple stitched seams and really strong corners.

[Boatguy30]

This interesting prospect of a SR 34 has shown up in SW Florida.

Seahorse Marine Inc. Yacht Sales (Fort Myers, FL)

I'm nearby for the next few days if anyone is interested in some additional unbaised info PM me.

Jeff

[Boatguy30]

Originally Posted by md7a

I am thinking of replacing the main on my 31. Anyone able to recommend a sailmaker, preferably on the west coast of the US?

I always recommend UK in Chicago. They actually design cut and assemble the sails there. Pay the staff well also.

Talk to Todd or Mike 313-326-1053 tell them Jeff sent you.

[Roy M]

Reefer status: Got the compressor and motor finally installed, now beginning on cooling module mounts. So far, so good. I'm trying for a New Year's Eve chilling of beer and champagne, but still, a lot of little details to go.

The "skyhook" I installed in the overhead allowed me to use the bos'n chair block and tackle to lift the motor/compressor module into position atop the flex mounts in the bilge. I built elevated mounts to keep things level and to allow enough space underneath the module for hosing down dust and keep the compressor and motor cool. As you can see, everything fit into the bilge with isolation from vibration to the hull. In the last pic, you can see a closeup of one of the vibration mounts, the frame in the sterncastle and a portion of the external Reflectex insulation surrounding the entire reefer box. After the cooling module is installed, aft of the compressor, I will do the cooling water plumbing, then install the electrical box and connect the wiring. All that then remains is to install the thermostat, the copper tubing to the various parts, and to charge the system with refrigerant. Then I can cover it all up and no one will probably appreciate all the little details that went into this madness.

In the last pic, if you click to magnify the image, you can see how I used liquid epoxy to fill the hollow that would otherwise collect water. I mixed it with low density filler, then painted everything. Little details like this take time, but they make a world of difference toward future maintenance.

[rossad]

Nice Roy... enjoy your beers soon enough

[Boatguy30]

Solvent resistant foam mini rollers. I am trying to find some 6" foam mini rollers that will work with LP paint. I have found the 4" red tree brand to work, but they don't seem to make 6". I tried the LOWES sold Blue Hawk and they start to break down and expand/ slip off the core after less than a pint of paint. For that matter, I have not used the 4" for big areas so might have the same issues there.

Any brands appreciated.

thanks.

[Jimske]

Originally Posted by Boatguy30

Solvent resistant foam mini rollers. I am trying to find some 6" foam mini rollers that will work with LP paint. I have found the 4" red tree brand to work, but they don't seem to make 6". I tried the LOWES sold Blue Hawk and they start to break down and expand/ slip off the core after less than a pint of paint. For that matter, I have not used the 4" for big areas so might have the same issues there.

Any brands appreciated.

thanks.

order from red tree ?? buy the 7 " cut them down ?

[Boatguy30]

I think the 7" would fit a standard roller not the 1/4" mini. I use a cut down jug as a roller tray since I'm cheap and the big roller frames make a mess when dipped into paint.
I just ordered some arrow worthy brand ones which had a positive review on Jamestown.