Trimaran - Especially Searunner - Owners

[Jimske]

Originally Posted by md7a

Jimske,
Could to post photos of your tennis nets? I love this idea and would like to see how they go on.

Photos show hardware which was original with boat. Fishing nets were initially used and help up for some 15+ years since the first launching in 1994.

Hardware consists of screws every few inches topside and underneath wing. A piece of flat stock aluminum holds the net in place underneath. I used a length of dynex (?) luff rope to lace it up underneath while it's just looped over topside. Nets are now 3 years old. I throw sail bags, anchors, etc. on them.

[md7a]

Pretty cool. How many years on those tennis nets? They look to be holding up pretty well.

Sent from my SCH-i705 using Cruisers Sailing Forum mobile app

[Jimske]

Originally Posted by md7a

Pretty cool. How many years on those tennis nets? They look to be holding up pretty well.

Sent from my SCH-i705 using Cruisers Sailing Forum mobile app

This will be the 4th season. They don't show any signs of deterioration yet. I roll them up underneath the wing for winter and leave the under wing weave in place so it's easy to just loop them over in spring.

[Roy M]

I just listed a bunch of stuff on the Classified Ads section if anyone is interested. These are package deals, no haggling or parting out, at killer prices because I am about to move pretty quickly on my new makeover. One package is the entire rig, with sails and Navtec turnbuckles for $2500. An entire Raymarine Classic E120 system with HD radar (still in the original box) and a whole bunch of additional electronics and parts for $3000. Last, two Barient 26 aluminum drum winches and a Barient 16 aluminum winch, all in good shape, package price $500. I don't expect these to last too long so if you're interested, don't dawdle.

[Roy M]

Here's the plan drawing for my new bownets made by Sunrise in Florida. I was really impressed with how professional his design system is. I had to slightly modify the dimensions based on more precise measuring. They should be ready in time for installation on my repainted decks.

[dale d]

Roy,
I too am repainting my decks. I was reminded about the labors of Hercules.
I figured he must have had a 40. I'm on gallon three of LP and down to the last coats. I just did the lower decks, saving the upper decks for another time.

There is a Cross 36 ( Crossfire like) the owners did the decks in 9 days. I'm on my sixth week. The Cross has three hatches, my Brown eight.
I've got Mark Johnson's nine week boat yard stay record in my crosshairs. I won't make it though. I gotta get wet.

Speaking of Mark, he has published a Kindle version called:
Anchoring & Mooring the Cruising Multihull:
I bought it just as payback for all the advice Mark has generously shared on this forum. I bet it's a good read though and full of good information.

Amazon.com: Anchoring & Mooring the Cruising Multihull: Equipment/Techniques: Anchors, Boat Anchors, Windlass / Electric Winch, Ropes / Chains eBook: Mark Johnson: Kindle Store

I'd love to have the winches you have for sale, do you deliver? <grin>

dale d

[Capt.Timbo]

You are sure to enjoy. We had the same company make thw webbing for our 40. Searunner. They are excellent.

[Capt.Timbo]

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/s9jvra0p6...4I60IX4P_yefaa

Here are the pictures of my redo. Into fourth month and wwill splash in about five weeks.

[Capt.Timbo]

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/sysap1v7s...831-drMajXgxFa

Our Searunner 40, in 2013, before our paint exploded off the sides. Now it is getting a complete redo.

[Capt.Timbo]

Funny, we paid $3,200.00 for the fantastic webbing on our 40 Searunner. It was worth every penny,

[Roy M]

Thanks for the info on the webbing. I'm excited to be getting new webbing, I missed not having it the last couple years. It's such a natural spot to hang out, whether underway or on the hook/at the dock.

The last couple days I have been pulling off some of the stanchions. I started to do it to modify the aftermost turning stanchion, to make the opening at the wing a bit larger for my new RIB. Then I realized it had been about eight years since I last painted the decks, so it was a good time for rebedding, and painting is so much easier when there's nothing in the way. While I'm doing this, I will be installing some deck rollers for the keel of the RIB to slide easier on. I'll use the hot-dip galvanized bodies for the time being, then replace them later with stainless when I'm done tweaking the system. I used to just drag the old Zodiac up and over the aft wing deck, but with the rigid fiberglass hull of the RIB, it would be a lot easier with rollers. Especially with the larger 15 hp outboard. I'll send pics when there is something to show. The forty seems to handle the weight very well. In fact, with the anchor chain the bow is a little depressed and I need to store more gear aft to trim even.

[Mark Johnson]

Hi guys, "Long time no post".
I have been super busy with unexpected revisions to the book, trying to help out clients, and the long recovery from a motorcycle crash.

Good to hear from you Dale. Hope your stay in the boatyard is soon over, though I have found that the job itself dictates the launch date, not our wishes to be done with it. Doing things well does take a lot of up front effort doesn't it.

Thanks for the kind words and for buying the book, btw!
I think you will find that it is full of all manner of of useful tips, along with the 146 photos and illustrations. This book covers MUCH more than anchoring... like ground tackle choices, best prices on custom HT chain, different tactics for different bottom materials, making that rope chain splice really last, hurricane drills, etc.

Anchoring & Mooring the Cruising Multihull (Book) | OutRig Media OR...
Amazon.com: Anchoring & Mooring the Cruising Multihull: Equipment/Techniques: Anchors, Boat Anchors, Windlass / Electric Winch, Ropes / Chains eBook: Mark Johnson: Kindle Store This is an Amazon Kindle E book that can be read on a Kindle or PC with the free "Kindle Reading App", downloaded in < 1 minute!

While geared toward multihullers, many of the tips would be equally applicable to monohullers as well. Here is the table of contents:

My Back Story
The Multihulls Anchoring Advantage
Anchoring and Mooring Equipment
PRIMARY Anchor Choices
Primary Anchor Sizes
SECONDARY Anchor Choices
Secondary Anchor Sizing
Anchor Rode Choices
Rope/Chain Rodes for SECONDARY Anchors
Shackles and Connecting Links
PRIMARY Anchor Rodes
Primary Rodes for Very Small Cruisers
Primary Rodes for Medium to Large Cruisers
Chain Fork VS Chain Stopper
Medium Sized Cruiser's Chain Diameter
Medium Sized Cruiser's Chain Length
Large Sized Cruiser's Primary Rode
Custom Made G4/HT Chains With Oversized End Links
Caveats of 1/4" HT chain
How I Marked My Chain For Depth
Floating Rope Rode
Floating Rope Alternative
Anchor Connections/Swivels
Chain Tensioners
The Ultimate Swivel
The Anchoring Bridle
Locking Chain Hooks
The Rolling Hitch
Bridle Construction
Bridle Attachment
Anchor Bridle Storage
Re-Deployment of the Bridle
Small Boat Bridles
Bridle Storage for Large Production Catamarans
Anchor/Bow Rollers
Building Your Own Bow Roller
Anchor Rode Lockers
My Washdown Hose Locker
Wing Anchor/Rode Lockers
Windlasses... Who Needs One
Hand Operated Windlasses
Windlass Brand Choices
Vertical VS Horizontal Windlasses
Windlass Location
Trimaran Windlass Options
Windlass Details on Delphys
Operating Your Windlass... Dropping Anchor
Operating Your Windlass... Getting Underway
Doing the Drill on Smaller Non-Windlass Multihulls
More About Anchoring Accessories
Short Range Communication Radios
Deck Level Anchor Lights
Anchor Viewing Bucket
Mooring/Anchor Marker Balls
Midship Cleats
Fixed Dock/Side To Docking
Floating Dock/Side To Docking
Anchoring Variations & Techniques
Lightweight Anchors as a Primary
The Bahamian Moor
The Bridle End Bahamian Moor
My Two Line Bowline, Bridle Tail Attachment
Diving Your Anchor
SAND Sea Bottoms
COMPOSITE Sea Bottoms
GRASS/WEED Sea Bottoms
HARD, CORAL, or ROCKY Sea Bottoms
MUD Sea Bottoms
Secondary Anchors in Soft Mud
Anchoring in High Growth Areas
GPS Anchor Alarms
Moorings and Their Problems for Multihulls
Mooring Solutions
My Mooring Bow Sprit
Parachute Sea Anchoring, Deployed From the Bow
Drogues, Deployed From the Stern
Running Off at Speed
Anchoring and Mooring for Hurricanes
My Hurricane Mooring Swivel System
Hurricane Mooring Schematic
Swimming Out an Emergency Anchor
Hurricane Tactic Observations After the BIG ONE
Other Short Term Moderate Storm Anchoring Options
Anchorage Etiquette

The strangely redundant titling at the bottom of the cover is to capture more "hits" on computer searches done through Amazon.
multihull-books-cds-and-more | OutRig Media

Enjoy all,
Mark

[Mark Johnson]

Roy,
I see in looking back on what I've missed that you asked me a question some pages back, which I never responded to. Sorry, read excuse above...

I see that you've made your choice, and in looking at the plans for your new nets, they look beautiful and like a great choice for your expressed needs.

I have described my nets and choices before, but... I also went with "Sunrise" on my wing vents' mesh nets only. They did a beautiful job, and like the bow's open nets, I have gotten 18 years out of them and they still look like new. Richard was VERY pleasantly surprised at their longevity, and here's how...

The trick is to re-coat them every few years, (5 coats), with Sunrise's black liquid vinyl dip. The plastic coating protects the polyester from chafe AND the UV rays as well. Use no other brand of vinyl dip... I have used others, like "whip dip" for rope, that gets VERY brittle on rope splices after 5 years. Sunrise dip remains flexible, INDEFINITELY!

I wanted the 1/2" open mesh nets that are strung REALLY tight for the vent holes, because mine are at the top of the hole, not the bottom as drawn. They are therefore walked on regularly and easily. Here, they are about 60-70% closed to the passage of waves, but it is not an issue at all. Easy walking and easy comfortable laying on them is. We also dry all manner of dive gear here as well.

Up at the bow area, here was my reasoning. Many modern Searunners are roller furled, and seldom or never sail with both headsails at the same time. SO... the fordeck work is usually just dropping the hook, or raising a spinnaker in a sock. In both cases, the likelihood of falling in is FAR less than in the old days, with constant changing of hanked on headsails.

I didn't want to repeat the mistake I made with my last boat, of being far too "busy" and too burdened a boat for its size. It was fine until I found my mate, then I had no payload left!

On Delphys, I started out with NO netting up there between the hulls. Then after a 5 day ROUGH passage from Glovers Reef, Belize to the Dry Tortugas, I changed my mind. My staysail which went up and down on its stay with the weather, (after striking the roller/lapper), Had been stored by being rolled tightly and tied down on the deck and side wing, (out of view)... In the rough seas, it had gotten loose and was being drug under the wing for hours, before I realized it. Luckily there was no damage.

NOW, I decided I needed nets at least to hold loose sails out of the water, and for more drying gear area. Half way forward from the wing to the bow would be plenty... I chose the 3/16" x 2" open sport netting for this, which we made up with homemade borders of polyester rope. With it all lashed up at each square, and tied in really tight, it has served perfectly for this.

I had done the same technique on my previous boat and knew it to be strong enough to walk in, but it will sag 2' if you do. So, it is only OK on Delphys because I don't walk in them, but it is nice to have a safety should I fall. For restraining sails, they are perfect.

In your case Roy, being that you do want to hang out in the bow nets, and a vent hole in the wing is NA, your choice of 1" webbing nets with 1.5" spaces sounds just right to me. It will pass most of a rare breaking wave, but still allow you to walk in it. The tighter you string it the better for this of course.

Your boat being the 40 vs my 34'er, means that deck sweeping waves would be far more rare for you than on my boat. If you were concerned and going into the low latitudes, it might be too tight a spacing, but why do THAT?

WOW... I didn't get that you were buying new sails and a NEW MAST! I've written and read so many posts that they all blur now. That's the way to have a great retirement cruise, with everything so refurbished that all you have to do is bottom jobs and fix what breaks.

Your decades spent in the business of installing all of this stuff will serve you well. It is always fun reading of your progress. Since mine is very slow right now.

Keep up the good work Roy!

In the photos below, the one of a coated and preserved rope/chain splice is from the recent book. This process keeps sand and debris out of the interface. Again, I only use the Sunrise black vinyl dip for this, because it stays flexible.

Mark

[rossad]

Nice to have you back Mark
I most definitely will purchase your anchoring book.
If a time period comes when somebody thinks they know it all... that's when they should stop for two reasons.
1) you become arrogant and even dangerous
2) the learning procedure closes so you need to learn something else.

[Mark Johnson]

Originally Posted by rossad

Nice to have you back Mark
I most definitely will purchase your anchoring book.
If a time period comes when somebody thinks they know it all... that's when they should stop for two reasons.
1) you become arrogant and even dangerous
2) the learning procedure closes so you need to learn something else.

Thanks Ross!
It is always a pleasure to read your posts, btw. They tend to be intelligent, positive, the voice of experience, and the kind of civil discourse that makes this thread a fun place to go.

Do by all means, post more photos of your exceptional Searunner and REALLY beautiful stomping grounds.

Mark