Trimaran - Especially Searunner - Owners

[Roy M]

It took me four years, start to launch, working forty hours a week for income, and working a minimum of forty hours a week on the boat. That resulted in a vessel with minimum cosmetic details on the interior, free sails that were being trashed by a local sailmaker, and a new engine with no permanent fuel tank. A very basic boat with a compass, old style rotary depthsounder, a German mechanical speedo, and no windlass. Ten days after the launch, in March of 1978, I drove it south from Los Angeles to San Diego where I had decided to make my new home. The galley was basic, but serviceable, and the toilet was evolving (I went through several iterations before discovering the Lavac). For ten days I lived at the Harbor Police dock, then spent three days in limbo, at anchor, while frantically searching for a marina that could accommodate a multihull. Eventually, it happened, and I could begin the long process of installing more cabinets, sailing with the old sails, learning the special lessons of the Searunner, and getting seatime. Now, thirty-some years later, I am approaching retirement, I've totally converted the original 6-breaker electrical system into a twenty-first century system, installed a more dependable Yanmar (half the weight and one more cylinder than the Volvo), and done innumerable other improvements in hope of making the long awaited BIG passages. I am nearing the installation of a state of the art reefer system (and eventually, the accompanying freezer), I still have to overhaul the mast, put new rigging and sails, and complete the overhaul of the cabinetry and storage.

So, to make it short, it can take a lifetime and all the money you have. But it beats the alternatives by a long shot. As it is said, the journey is the adventure.

[rossad]

Lifetimes are just too short. Or the 40 S.R too big. What an incredible boat though.

[Mark Johnson]

On our SR 34... Between my wife and I, we spent 100 hours a week for 5 years. to get a completed, launchable hull, with steering and a functional engine. I worked 70, she worked 30, (+ her weekend / evenings at a hospital). This allowed her to be "part time", but get paid = to full time. Only after the first 3 years did we start the practice of taking 2 or 3 days off, per year! The first 3 years were 365 days a year...

After launch, we camped on the boat, at a dock, while I spent the next year installing the AC and DC electrical system, plumbing, curtains, cushions, finishing the 1,000 hr dodger, etc.

The next year, we moved to Titusville Fl. Here we installed solar panels, the canvass cockpit enclosure, the entire rig, rails & stantions, all hardware, etc.

By this time, after 7 years, at 100 hrs a week between us, we went sailing for the first time, went from Titusville Fl down to the Keys, and across the Gulf to Pensacola, to haul out. This was when our numerous CopperPoxy disasters held us up considerably.

After the initial 7 years, we worked 3 more at a constant but slower pace, while living on the boat & cruising. We changed out what didn't work, made improvements, and eventually did a year long haul out to re-paint & make repairs. (This was when I learned about the absolute necessity of opaque grey primer)...

So, it was 10 years for us, but I build things to last, and stack the effort up front, rather than pay the price in more maintenance further down the line. It is not the only way to do it, just what I prefer...

We do have far more comforts, as it was our ONLY home for 12 years. We also have much higher efficiency, with electrical energy 100% solar supplied. The interior accouterments have added years to the project. A less equipped boat, intended for higher maintenance and a shorter ownership, would be WAY less effort, UP FRONT!

The electrical system and "comforts", btw, have been BY FAR the most reliable aspects of the boat, and seldom add to the maintenance. 90 + % of all maintenance is for rigging, the actual structure, hardware, & paint. (We still use our 1999 lap top nav computer, for example, and the 17 year old solar panels work perfectly).

Now, we have moved off of the boat, cruise locally, and are planning more big time cruising in retirement. I go to Delphys daily, and do constant upkeep, and upgrades. She stays in "sail away" condition! We are currently changing out the 17 year old cockpit enclosure, (a must on a SR, imo), and the standing rigging comes next.

The answer on how much time... "All of your life", if you love the boat, and plan to do the whole journey together...
The money? "All that you've got".


P.S. Roy, great rudder hardware solution. Even I couldn't bring myself to remove the rudder hardware at every haul, for inspection, but my hat's off to ya!
I do have a glued in & "faired to the hull" strut, and it is indeed easier to keep clean.
M.

[Roy M]

Mark, with a hammer and a chisel, the Splash Zone epoxy pops right off. I spin out the bolts with a ratchet, and the metal parts just pop off. Then the Splash Zone goes back on, fairs in with wet hands, and is ready for bottom paint the next day. Easy Peezie. I sleep better at night having done it. I'm thinking of adding a cavitation plate, though, on the rudder at the level of the bottom of the hull.

[Cavalier MK2]

The cavitation plate on Scrimshaw even has swimsteps.....video #5 of Jim Brown's Living with Scrimshaw series on outrig.org. Richard Wood's retracting rudders have the advantage of being in a housing if you wanted to lie to a parachute in a storm. They can be seen on his website under "rudders" in the FAQ section.

[Mark Johnson]

Originally Posted by Roy M

Mark, with a hammer and a chisel, the Splash Zone epoxy pops right off. I spin out the bolts with a ratchet, and the metal parts just pop off. Then the Splash Zone goes back on, fairs in with wet hands, and is ready for bottom paint the next day. Easy Peezie. I sleep better at night having done it. I'm thinking of adding a cavitation plate, though, on the rudder at the level of the bottom of the hull.

Sounds great Roy... Mine are a built up, "0" tolerance fit, tightly caulked on. The bottom one has the underside of the forward bend "filled" as well. It would be much more difficult to get off than yours.

The problem area is the WL gudgeon. It is "home" for Barnicles, and about the 3rd year, when paint gets worn away, it becomes hard to clean without a screw driver, which is hard on the remaining bottom paint.

I have had success, so far, with omitting zincs here, and using 2 part primer and bottom paint on the hardware. I strip it of paint, and start over, on each haul out, which allows a good inspection.

It is not a huge problem, so I will keep what I have, but if I were starting over, I would either use recessed titanium with flush titanium machine screws, OR I'd go with the slick Marples one pin composite hinge design.

I think we all come up with different solutions, and yours definitely seems to work well for you.

M.

[Roy M]

BTW, Mark, I got a call last night from Jeff and Jose. They are in American Samoa at the moment, and will be moving on to Fiji, then NZ after the typhoon season. I assume all went well for you with "Sandy"?

[Mark Johnson]

Originally Posted by Roy M

BTW, Mark, I got a call last night from Jeff and Jose. They are in American Samoa at the moment, and will be moving on to Fiji, then NZ after the typhoon season. I assume all went well for you with "Sandy"?

That's great Roy... Sounds like Jeff may actually complete another circumnavigation! This will be Jose's first complete one. (Although they may just stay in his beloved Pacific)? We miss these guys, it was the most fun we ever had cruising...

We got brushed good by Sandy. Had to do the "H drill" in the marina, and the NC Outer Banks took a good hit, but we were the lucky ones this time.

On a sad note... The HMS Bounty, (presumably the same one from Jeff's days as an extra in the movie, "Mutiny on the Bounty", was sunk off of the treacherous NC coast, during the storm. I'm sure you saw it in the news. One death for sure, and the Capt. presumed lost as well. Very sad... We had toured the boat 5 years ago, and it is a loss for us all.

There's a lot to be said for spending H season out of the H belt, but as J&J know all too well, the H belt, and time of year, have become a moving target.

Mark

[Mark Johnson]

Correction... Regarding the very sad story of the loss of the Bounty in hurricane Sandy:
There were TWO Bountys.

The national news apparently had it right, and our local Eastern NC news had it wrong. The HMS Bounty that was sunk off of our NC coast, was NOT the one from the Mel Gibson/Anthony Hopkins movie "Bounty"... (The vessel which we toured here 5 years ago, and our friend Jeff had been involved with).

The HMS Bounty that sunk, was actually the much older one from the Marlon Brando movie, "Mutiny on the Bounty"...

The full explanation about their "being there", will probably be a long time coming.
M.

[slowbat]

Originally Posted by Mark Johnson

Rossad,
The Jim Brown book I referred to is VERY old, and I think, rare. I've never met or communicated with anyone else who had one, in fact. It is about 1/2" thick, and looks similar to the Construction Manual. Its titled: "Searunner Trimarans", and Jim said they just called it "The Catalog". The inside front and back cover photos are GREAT! The book is full of even more great Jo Hudson cartoons, (a cartoon genius in his on right), and Jim explains the boats, concept, and evolution, in his usual eloquent and entertaining style. If it weren't for the backward finances of such a venture, this book should be re-printed too. Perhaps enough request could talk him into it?

M.

Hi Mark,
Long time reader fist time poster...... I am on my second Searunner and 4th Trimaran over the last 20 years. I have been collecting trimaran books and stories the entire time. I found my copy in Port Townsend WA maybe 15 years ago at a garage sale for $0.50. I am sure it is worth more than I paid. I have never seen another one. It would be cool if John put out a new one with the Seaclipper 10 Searunner 34 and all the other new boat they have designed in the last 40 + years.
All the Best,
Dan in Seattle

[Maren]

Originally Posted by slowbat

I have never seen another one. It would be cool if John put out a new one with the Seaclipper 10 Searunner 34 and all the other new boat they have designed in the last 40 + years.

Look at post number 1244 (page 84).

[Mark Johnson]

SLOWBAT,

Good idea... Thing is, a re-print of "The Catalog" would be at a financial loss for John, and to get such a cool inside cover photo, would require another major Searunner conflab, like in the old days. I would be game, IF I could find the time.

With the boats and owners getting "long in the tooth", long distance travel for this sort of thing seldom really happens. Its a shame though... WHAT FUN!

We are a passionate but relatively small group. Writing, or RE-writing a book is a HUGE amount of work, and selling a couple hundred copies, is not even a break even number, not counting ones time involved.
M.

[Cavalier MK2]

Easier to publish/post it on line like the build manual with new pages added for the newer designs.

[slowbat]

Huge progress this weekend on the 25'with primer. Looking forward to tons of sanding

Peregrine / Laughing Gravy Searunner 25 | Facebook/230292897073438

[sassarassa]

Before this last project I would have thought inspecting these parts was a bit of overkill ... well after pulling all the hardware off my rudder I found they all needed rebuilding. Tiny cracks were all through them. They looked fine from the outside.

The universe decided I should rebuild in SS by supplying all the materials so I didn't go any further with the composite designs. A local bloke here even had some SS tube that was an exact fit for the rudder bolts so I have SS sleeves as the bearing surface.

After motor and rudder were done I decided to go nuts with fairing and painting (going into the shed for spray painting in 2 days), found random rot in the decks, stripped all the paint off the decks, bought new hatches for the amas (the ply ones always leaked). Pics are where all this is up to ...

BTW Cule hatches in New Zealand custom make their hatches in whatever size you want and are only about 20% more than standard hatch prices. The 2 ama hatches (900mm x 600mm) cost 1500 AUD plus 300AUD for delivery.

Apparently relaunch day is only 7 days away ... I dont see a lot of sleep in my immediate future

Jon

Originally Posted by Roy M

Here's what I have been doing for the last thirty years: At each haulout I remove the fairing compound (Splash Zone epoxy), remove the bolts and inspect all the hardware, then replace with new fairing.

Last time, I replaced the rudder piece because I had the time and resources to make it better, not because it had any problems. The picture shows only the skeg portion faired, but I also fair in the rudder portion. It makes cleaning a breeze. I do the same for the cutlass bearing strut.